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Yakiba and Fukura difference from Omote & Ura sides


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Posted

Hello all,

 

First off let me state that I have really no opportunity to view swords in person, as the availability in Thailand is scarce. So I'm relegated to photos online and in books, as my information source {I know, I know not ideal to say the least}.

 

Looking at various photos of Tantos, I often see a stark difference on the temper line detail from side to side. Several tantos I've seen pictured, barely even display any distinguishable temper line on the Omote side, while the Ura side is very clear even showing partial or entire return temper on the Mune.

Is this simply a style of clay prep before tempering via individual smiths, or is this a sign of many polishes, thus removing enough metal on one side , diminishing the original detail?

 

Second question relating to all swords, does showing core steel after a swords polish, negate it's value, or is it simply showing that the sword is on its final polish?

 

Thank you in advance for helping out a fledgling rookie.

 

Mark

Posted
2 hours ago, MHC said:

negate it's value,

Mark

I imagine this is a matter of preference. According to this source, it's a sign of a "tired" blade. I would think that age, rarity, and smith play a larger part in value. But some may consider it a deal breaker.

John C.

Screenshot 2025-09-30 at 8.57.00 PM.png

Posted

There very much can be. I know it's said tanto didn't use kawagane and shingane, but there is no doubt that some tanto were made that way, and I have a late koto/early Shinto tanto showing shingtetsu after many polishes. I have zero doubt some smiths did make tanto the same way they made wakizashi and katana. We already had this debate way back: https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/49145-shintetsu-good-bad-or-acceptable/

http://www.ksky.ne.jp/~sumie99/shingane.html

 

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Posted
2 hours ago, Brian said:

There very much can be. I know it's said tanto didn't use kawagane and shingane, but there is no doubt that some tanto were made that way, and I have a late koto/early Shinto tanto showing shingtetsu after many polishes. I have zero doubt some smiths did make tanto the same way they made wakizashi and katana. We already had this debate way back: https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/49145-shintetsu-good-bad-or-acceptable/

http://www.ksky.ne.jp/~sumie99/shingane.html

 

Reliable sources please

Posted
On 10/1/2025 at 3:55 AM, MHC said:

.....Looking at various photos of Tantos, I often see a stark difference on the temper line detail from side to side. Several tantos I've seen pictured, barely even display any distinguishable temper line....

Is this simply a style of clay prep before tempering via individual smiths.....

Mark,

there is no clay application for the tempering (= YAKIMODOSHI). This is only done before hardening (= YAKIIRE). What you call "temper line" is in fact the hardening line (= HAMON).

Generally, clay application is mostly done with one side of the blade at a time (there are videos on that on YouTube). In this case the HAMON may not be symmetrical on both sides. However, some smiths took great care in producing almost "mirrored" HAMON.

Japanese nouns do not have a plural form, so it is always TANTO (not Tantos)

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Posted
On 10/3/2025 at 4:44 AM, ROKUJURO said:

Generally, clay application is mostly done with one side of the blade at a time (there are videos on that on YouTube). In this case the HAMON may not be symmetrical on both sides. However, some smiths took great care in producing almost "mirrored" HAMON.

All information regarding traditional hardening (Yakiire) of the Hamon, clearly state this process is done complete (entire blade), and only once. The clay compound is applied to the entire blade, both sides, only one time. This is a very critical step in the process, with some swords not surviving the process. These failed swords may require re-work or disposal.

 

Additionally, sorry for my use of the word "temper", that was incorrect on my part. Still learning the correct terminology for use regarding Japanese swords.

 

Mark

Posted

Yoshihara Yoshindo mentions that a well made blade can be hardened several times if the original quench doesn’t produce desirable results.

 

He says this is done by heating the blade to a yellow color and letting it air cool to soften the blade and then re-coating it in clay another round of yaki-ire. 
 

 

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