Any information on this sword would be wonderful

[Texxan_82]

My grandfather brought this sword home after the war. Story has it his CO numbered everything the soldiers wanted to take and drew numbers out of a hat, he won the sword. Has anyone else heard of anything like this?

 

There aren't any identification marks on the blade or tang. I have found 1 arsenal mark on the tsuba, a star with a symbol inside it. Each of the spacers and tsuba have what I guess is inspection marks. what looks like a V with short extended legs. Where it intersects faces the blade cut out, I don't know what that is called. On the opposite side is 4 lines perpendicular to the cut out. I've had trouble getting a good picture of the hamon line, probably bad light and a flash. I'll try some more and see if I can post a better picture. It's a shallow, not very uniform, wave with crests around 1/2 to 1 inch each. There are a couple or so light colored spots above the line on each side.

 

I've learned the mon is called Maru-ni Jigami. I can't find anything on what family used this crest, and I don't know if it is possible to.

 

Anything y'all can tell me would be much appreciated.

 

Thank you, Sean

[Brian]

Sean,

Not much we can tell from the pics. I think there is a very good chance this is an earlier blade taken to war.

Almost impossible to track mon down to a certain family.

The sword looks worth having investigated in hand. Looks o-suraige, hence no mei possibly.

 

Brian

[Stephen]

looks like it has a mei to me

[Texxan_82]

I don't mind posting more pictures. What should I photograph specifically to help?

[nagamaki - Franco]

Hello,

 

An image showing the entire profile of the sword without habaki from both sides, images of the mono-uchi both sides, as well as good close-ups of the Kissaki and Hamachi, also images showing the moto and saki kasane. Any and/or all of these would be most helpful for evaluation. Thank you.

[Baka Gaijin]

Good morning Sean,

 

If it helps, the Kamon is also known as Nakawa ni Jigami.

 

Cheers

[Texxan_82]

The quality of these pictures aren't the best. Only camera I have is an iphone which doesn't always want to work with me.

I took some measurements as well. I didn't have anything to measure in cm so it's all in inches, don't know if that really matters.

Nagasa ~26.5"

Nakago ~8"

Saki Kasani- 3/16" at bottom, 1/4" at Machi

Moto Kasani-1/4"

 

Again, forgive the quality. They may be too bad to help.

 

On the first set of pictures, any idea what the arsenal mark is on the tsuba?

 

Thanks y'all

[Stephen]

Sean.....(good name, oldest sons name as well)

 

please show me this area as close as you did the kissaki pix...i might just be tripping but want to see it anyway.

 

I have sent a friends sword to shinsa that was taken as mumei, after i got it back and wondering why it was given Gendiato i seen some faint mei, with some back edge of knife burnishing (dont do this your self) i pulld out Yoshimune...koto. So humor me please.

[Texxan_82]

Here are the close ups.

[nagamaki - Franco]

Hello, this shape looks familiar at 4 AM , reminds me of a late nambokucho sword I used to own, but perhaps a little bit later, early muromachi. This is just one amateur opinion :? , wait to see what others here have to say.

The proper way to find out is to submit this sword for shinsa like the next NTHK NPO, and/or NBTHK (if polished). If I were thinking of polishing/keeping this sword, I would seriously consider having a window polished in this sword first, which would offer better clues for the shinsa judges as to what this sword might be.

[Brian]

As Stephen said, I think there might be a hint that there was a mei once. But not visible anymore.

Definitely an earlier blade taken to war. A

 

Brian

[Texxan_82]

I wasn't expecting it to be that old. Is there any way to bring out the mei or is it lost?

 

I know polishing can be expensive, so that may not be an option just now. What should I do to keep the blade from deteriorating any more than it has? I know there are some very deep pits in the tip of the blade. Anything on cleaning, oiling, etc.? What about the scabbard? Did the military use whatever reptile skin that is or is it older as well and brought to war? What should I use to keep it from deteriorating as well?

 

I found a place where I live that does inspections, cleaning, polishing. Should I just take the blade to them to take care of it instead of me trying to take care of it? Their site says 3-5 days, but I'm not sure leaving the blade with someone that long is wise.

 

Thank you for the information y'all have given me so far.

Sean

[Stephen]

Sean

 

We need to know where that is. only trained should work on your old blade, just a light coat of oil for now.

[Texxan_82]

I guess that would help things wouldn't it...?

I live in Denton Tx, about 30 miles north of Dallas

 

This is the place I was talking about

http://www.dentonmartialarts.com/swd.htm

 

But, I could also ask I guess. Does anyone know of a good place to get my sword looked at in the Dallas Fort Worth area?

 

regards,

sean

[Stephen]

IMHO

 

Id pass on having them look at it, 3-5 days...nope sorry, unless thats mailed items. Id NEVER let them put it to stone. We use to have shows in San Antonio, but not any more. Mabye a member close by? Id have Chris Bowen or Bob Benson look at it. They will let you now if its a canadidate for restoration.

That means youd have to mail it out. I know your not wanting to do that but its best way to find out if it has hagiri or not. I think i see part of a mei "shu" but not 100% on that. Off to the morning work out im sure others will help as well.

[nagamaki - Franco]

Hello Sean,

 

Although there is the urge to rush, instead learned patience is highly recommended with nihonto. Take the time to begin studying, books, internet, travel to sword shows, etc., so that when it comes time to making decisions you are able to do so from a knowledgeable point of view rather than simply an inexperienced one where too often collectors end up paying for their missteps and mistakes. A good sword deserves a proper polish, it would be wise to take the time to carefully read through the many comments and discussions already here on NMB about polishers and polishing. The martial arts approach to polish does not have the same approach and objectives as an art polish and it is important to learn and understand the differences. At this point your sword is an art sword, exactly at what level is yet to be determined. Think of this as sort of a journey, just how far you go on this journey is up to you. In the mean time take good care of your sword, there is no reason for it not to survive for centuries more.

[Brian]

What Stephen said...

 

Brian

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Sean,

Mostly what others have said and...

Do not let the martial arts polishers near your sword; their partial polish can do serious damage and they should be ashamed of themselves for offering it.

All you can do to preserve the sword is to place an extremely fine coat of machine oil on the polished portion (not the nakago). Nothing to do for the scabbard except to keep it clean and dry.

Here is a link to a care & etiquette site: http://www.nbthk-ab.org/Etiquette.htm

Someday someone who knows what he's doing and who isn't trying to buy the sword for a song will have to look at it before you'll know what you have. Until then it is fine with the oil and there's no need to rush.

Grey

[nagamaki - Franco]

Hi Sean,

All you can do to preserve the sword is to place an extremely fine coat of machine oil on the polished portion (not the nakago). Grey

 

Hello Grey, All,

 

Time and time again you and others have said not to oil the nakago, which if anyone cares to read the NBTHK post on the JSS/US site on sword care, even they write that this is OK and explain how to do so. Also, I have had a number of swords in which I have oiled the nakago not only according to the JSS Sword Care article, but on the advise of fully trained Japanese polishers, and these swords have received Tokubetsu Hozon papers when submitted to the NBTHK!

 

Now, at least on one sword there was a tad of active red rust, which when treated with sword oil, carefully, as recommended, then turned to black rust, which is exactly what one wants to happen.

 

The nakago below was treated with sword oil to help arrest any active rust, the key is to blot any excess oil off to the point where there is only a trace remains. If you allow the oil to soak into the red rust it will begin to transform it to desired black rust. Careful vigilance is the key, and not too much nor too little, but just right. And that's all I have to say about this.

 

 

[Stephen]

Franco

 

Im in your camp, any active red flaky rust, tap lightly with wood mallet, and light coat of oil. rust never sleeps as the song goes, it needs to be stopped.