Recent Buys in an Antique Store

[GregN]

Hi Guys, a host of questions as I'm playing Russian Roulette "Nihonto Style" by buying without any books, training or mentorship! I bought these because I liked them and the price wasn't too exorbitant, however it's time to buy some books and befriend some other collectors so I know what the heck I'm buying!

 

First up is the tsuba which is made of copper. The patina is a dark green brown and seems to be lacquered. I like the imprint made by the seppa as the seppa dia is the result of the tsuba being mounted on a sword. The kogai bitsu seems almost an after thought and is quite primitively done, I don't think the tsuba originally had space for a kogai. Like wise, the sekigane is faked by adding a stamped line. Is this primitive or just poorly executed work?

 

My on-line resources all mention tsuba made of iron, as this is copper can I assume a late Edo age to this tsuba. As to school, I have so little experience with tsuba, I have to lean on the learned to discover this. What are the Forums' thoughts (beside buying some books :? )

 

Regards

 

Greg

[raiden]

Russian Roulette with an automatic is not a good idea...

[Jean]

Unless the clip is empty and there is no cartridge in the chamber...

[Geraint]

Welcome Greg.

 

Some thoughts for you. First the normal way of showing tsuba is as worn on a katana, the other way up from your images. Not a problem but something to bear in mind. Second, you cannot assume that the tsuba is late because it is made of copper, depending on the qualities of the metal some very early tsuba were made from copper or yamagane which would look like a copper at first glance.

You are right in thinking that the tsuba has been mounted, the punch marks around the nakagoana were made to secure a good fit to the nakago of the sword. No attempt at faking anything, the punched line to the edge of the kodzuka hitsu would have been added to push the edge a little so that the kodzuka would not foul the fuchi or seppa when fitted.

 

I am sure that everyone will suggest that you hold off until you have read a bit more. Also haunt the dealer websites which you can find listed in the links at the top of the NMB. There is a great deal to be learned from educating your eye, though not too much can replace studying these things in person so find out if there is a sword study group near you.

 

You are embarking on a journey that will be great fun, fascinating and sometimes intriguing. There are bound to be some setbacks along the way, everyone has stories about the one they shouldn't have bought and the ones that got away, all part of the fun.

 

Enjoy

[Soshin]

Hi Greg,

 

In regards to your tsuba it's not that it is late which it may or may not be but that it has poor workmenship and I find the design uninspiring. The color of it is also very strange. Please take a look at the links section and purchase a few books. There is also a good search function on this website. What you don't know can hurt your budget.

 

P.S. Please take this as constructive criticism.

[GregN]

Thanks guys for the comments, don't worry about my feelings. It's all a learning process and my first lesson is buy the books. I should know this as I collect a multitude of other things and my recommendations to new collectors in those areas is the same as here. Buy some books!

 

Now some questions:

 

How can you tell if the tsuba is for a Katana or a Wakizashi? Obviously the size is key but were there standard size and thickness ranges and do these change over time?

 

Based on what can bee seen with this tsuba, was the kogai bitsu added later?

 

Despite the poor photography, can an attempt be made a school or age?

 

Thanks you all again for the help and entertaining my many questions

 

Regards,

 

Greg

[Stephen]

did scan or photo with a flash or is it that color?

[raiden]

Ok, I would like to know the size ( top to bottom in inches if possible ), humor me, I am going some where with this, but need some info.

[raiden]

also what IS the color? you state copper, but yet it looks blue - black in the photo...

[Brian]

Mike,

Is your monitor properly colour calibrated?

Sorry, just kidding...couldn't resist. :lol:

 

Brian

[Soshin]

How can you tell if the tsuba is for a Katana or a Wakizashi? Obviously the size is key but were there standard size and thickness ranges and do these change over time?

 

Hi Greg N.,

 

This question isn't as easy as you might think. While the overall size should be taken into consideration I think dimensions of the central area (Jpn. seppa-dai) around the tang hole (Jpn. nakago-ana) should be considered. Attached is a tsuba from my collection which is a case in point. The overall size is fairly small at 7.0 cm but the central area and tang hole is very large relative to the overall size of the tsuba and rim thickness is also remarkable at 6.0 mm. From comparing it to other tsuba some of which are mounted on swords I think it was intended to be mounted on a Katana. Hope you find this helpful.

[GregN]

Hi Guys, well I'm guessing taking photos in natural light w/o a flash is a good idea I may have to retake them but basically the colour is a dark browny green. The size of the tang hole (nakago-an) is about 3 cm.

 

Greg

[Brian]

Greg,

All the sizes please. Top to bottom, side to side and thickness.

 

Brian

[rkg]

Yeah, taking a picture of a highly reflective surface straight on with digicam with its poor flash placement usually gets you a nice picture of the flash like this :-) Also, if you're trying to get the color correct you'll also want to at least set the white balance to match the light type if not just do a custom white balance.... and finally, don't mix light "types" if you are interested in trying to show the color - in these you can see the yellow in the tungsten light coming in from above..

 

Best,

 

rkg

(Richard George)

 

Hi Guys, well I'm guessing taking photos in natural light w/o a flash is a good idea I may have to retake them but basically the colour is a dark browny green. The size of the tang hole (nakago-an) is about 3 cm.

 

Greg