Scogg

The reliability of the old green papers has been discussed quite a bit here over the years. Might be worth searching the forum for old threads that discuss the topic. Lots of opinions and discussions. Here’s an older article by the late Darcy Brockbank that covers the topic in detail; you’ll need to scroll down a bit, but it’s well worth the read: https://web.archive.org/web/20210123052725/https://blog.yuhindo.com/green-papers-no-papers/ Sincerely, -Sam

Currently, I'm just making my "drafts" on google docs. Google docs allows me to access the work from anywhere, and save my draft as a variety of file types. The goal is, to complete my draft, and then use a program like you describe to "format" my work so it's neat and easy-to-consume. Currently, my big issue/annoyance is image placement. Thank you for the recommendation! I am going to make a note to look into Adobe in-design. -Sam

Thank you fellas! Seems like they had some casting-mould problems during this pattern transition Very interesting, and something that I will note going forward. I am attempting to make a PDF photo guide of the pattern types including transitional patterns and some of the more subtle features, so things like this are important to include. Still a work in progress. I'd love to consolidate much of the information about Type95s that's currently dispersed throughout many forums and sources. Thank you everyone, it is very much appreciated and helps my efforts greatly. -Sam

Interesting! I had not seen that one before but I now see it on Bruce’s example and on the one that I used as an example (shown below). Thank you! Another little detail that I will note

Hi John, On an old blade in shirasaya. Suriage and mumei

I was visiting with a friend and fellow collector this weekend, and while discussing one of my swords we discovered very subtle kanji amongst the nagashi. An exciting revelation! I then contacted @Ray Singer who helped me identify it as a togi-mei. He then helped me translate both sides. It was exceptionally hard to photograph, so kudos to Ray for not only his ability, but his patience with my many photo attempts. One column: 君山研廣 = Kimiyama Kenhiro Two columns: 越後住 = Echigo ju = made in Echigo province 昭和三十一年 = Showa 31 = 1956 Link with old similar discussion and with other examples: https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/9744-polishers-marks/ I thought this was something worth sharing, and to me, is a really interesting window into this swords more recent past. Thanks for looking, -Sam

Precisely @Conway S! 200k range from the eBay link you provided: 130k range:

Very interesting. Just so I'm less cryptic here: I was checking to see if your pommel area shared the casting flaw on the cast samegawa shown in my comment below (see how the dimpling is splotchy/incomplete left of the sarute). I have observed this same casting flaw on two 130k side-latch swords now. It appears that your 202446 does not share this feature (but maybe it's on the other side?). Interesting. Thank you Bruce! -Sam

Looking for a specific photo request: Does anyone here own a Pattern 4 aluminum-handle side-latch with a serial number in the 200k–205k range? I’ve noticed a subtle feature in the 130k range, and I’d like to check if the same detail appears in the 200k range. If you have one of these 200k aluminum side-latch models, I’d really appreciate a close-up photo (both sides) of the cast samegawa area around the pommel/sarute. Thanks so much for your help! -Sam

Hi Cody, well done on the photos! Grey's advice is very good. Consider that the sword has existed for many generations before you, and it will continue to survive many generations into the future; so plenty of time to learn before any big decisions are made. (A professional traditional polish can be as much, or more than $150 an inch, (150 x 23 = ~ $3450). Your sword is already in decent condition, and is better looking than most "first swords" that we see. The two peice habaki is a nice bonus, and the fittings are charming enough.. When a mei is genuine, it's referred to as "zaimei", when it's a false signature it is called "gimei". I do not personally have the expertise to determine zaimei from gimei. You could try comparing your signature to known papered examples, but that's a little advanced (maybe someone here will offer input). Your sword is original length (ubu). Without a doubt it is a real and traditionally made Nihonto Wakizashi. Thank you for sharing, and welcome! All the best, -Sam

Might be worth reaching out to the New York Token Kai. I'm not familiar with their organization, but they are likely the closest available option for you to get a second opinion. Looks like they might be meeting in December https://www.ny-tokenkai.org/meetings In the meantime, do you happen to have measurements of the kasane, and also the motohaba and sakihaba? Best of luck, -Sam

I have also wondered this, and similar nakago have caused me to speculate some kind of artificial or accelerated aging. Judging on sugata, my guess would be Shinto period. Please take that guess with a big grain of salt because I’m just a collector and not an expert. Some measurements may help those who are more knowledgable on the age question. All the best, -Sam

I see the yasurime now. Where is my coffee Thanks for the input guys, -Sam

My take: Fittings look potentially real to me, maybe late war and lower end. I don’t like how the signature looks and lack of yasurime (at first I thought it was cut in with a dremmel, but now I see tiny chisel marks), maybe it’s one of those showato chippy signatures? The blade appears to have had an amateur restoration and/or been chemically treated. We can move it again if necessary; but this is not a sword that I would aspire to own. -Sam

It was one of the few that others had flagged as a fake, but maybe I hastily moved it. What do you think @Bruce Pennington @Brian?

Hi @Jake007, I have relocated some of the more obvious fakes to the "Fake Japanese Sword" section linked here: https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/forum/142-fake-Japanese-swords/ I suspect a couple of the others may also be fakes, but I have left them here for now so members have the opportunity to weigh in. I have to agree with the above, that this is not the best way to feel out a purchase. Many Japanese sword collectors have their "finger on the pulse" of these auction sites, and while it might seem like there are deals to be had, those deals are usually only found by those with a trained and educated eye. I'd recommend reading up a bit, looking into some books, and doing some study before a purchase. As an entry, I really like "The Art of the Japanes Sword" by Leon and Hiroko Kapp and Yoshindo Yoshihara. Also the "Connoisseurs book of Japanese swords" by Kokan Nagayama is very often recommended and is a great resource. Your dime your time of course; but you may encounter many pitfalls with this approach. All the best, -Sam

Personally, I like the Mihara. That's because it aligns with my personal tastes. My take might be less popular, but I think it’s better to lean into what truly resonates with you rather than chasing something just because it fits a certain period, size, or style. If Bizen work really speaks to you, especially Yasumitsu, that’s probably where your focus should be. The overall style of the Yasumitsu will be pretty different then the Ko-Mihara and your other blades. If what draws you to the Ko-Mihara is mainly its size and shape rather than the workmanship itself, it might be worth letting your appreciation for Bizen craftsmanship guide you. In the end, following what genuinely appeals to you usually leads to the most satisfying collection. Both blades must be speaking to you in no small way, if you're considering a purchase; so maybe there is no wrong choice between two nice looking swords. Best of luck and nice swords! -Sam

It’s such a fascinating and rewarding topic to explore. Every Japanese sword carries its own unique story and history. Welcome to the obsession! I hope you can make it to the upcoming PNW Token Kai meeting in December. That being said: Mal and Bruce have already done a fantastic job covering your sword in detail. They’ve gone above and beyond and I doubt I could offer much, if any, additional information. I'm just a collector, while Mal is the kind of person that I would go to for this kind of detailed info. He and Bruce really know their stuff. But if you are able to attend the meeting; there will be other swords to admire, and we can talk about your blade in-person, and go over maintenance and cleaning (if you would like). There's also something to gain about having a sword in-hand, and being able to point to features and discuss it's respective condition/quality, rather then relying on photos alone. Anyway, cool sword and this thread has been an interesting and fun read. All the best, -Sam

Thank you for clearing that up Kris, and a pleasure to meet you! Also, thank you for getting the caliper measurement of your tsuba. That goes a long way for my records, and is a challenging data point to collect. So it is very much appreciated. Very cool sword, and congratulations on winning the auction. If you have any questions, we are always here to help All the best, -Sam

Thank you so much Jean, that appears to be it! Much appreciated, -Sam

Hi John, I think so. That looks like it! I really struggle with these more "loopy" stylized characters

A friend has asked me for help translating this tsuba. I tried on my own first, but it’s proven to be beyond my amateur ability. Adding two photos; one original and the other brightened with a filter for some added contrast. Best regards, -Sam

Hi @Izu Karol, welcome to the forum! Something that is often overlooked by new members, is the "Nihonto info" and "Downloads" section up at the top of the page. Lots of amazing content and resources in there. Welcome, and feel free to share your swords with us if willing. All the best, -Sam

Maybe @Kiipu already has the answer. But I will add: If such carry over did occur, it would be a very interesting data point. And a key detail in that narrow transitional period between the Copper and Aluminum tsuka. I’m beginning to suspect one of two possibilities: - They simply don’t exist: the transition to 9mm tsuba may have been complete at the time of aluminum tsuka production began; and overstock was repurposed elsewhere. - Carry over occurred in very limited and factory-specific number, for example: perhaps only the earliest GIFU stamped swords, or maybe 11mm tsuba overstock was only given to select contractors like Iijima. This is a mystery I would really like to help unravel. If anyone has any photographic evidence, firsthand examples, or period documentation to show this carryover, I’d love to see it. I have been actively searching. I hope that we can figure this out, even eliminating possibilities helps us move closer to the truth. All the best, -Sam

That's possible, and I have heard this said about carry over 11mm tsuba; but I am still trying to confirm or deny this idea. I have never personally seen an aluminum type 95 with 11mm tsuba. I would be very interested in a caliper measurement @Krzysio, if you are able. My Suya #7249 definitely has the 9mm version. Nick Koyima states in his warrelics thread (linked below) "Short Development History of Type 95 Gunto", on page 2: "....Stu W's article describes the second model as having an aluminum grip and continuing to have a 11 mm thick Tsuba, but the Tsuba design was definitely switched to 9 mm thickness at the same time as gaining aluminum grips. The only possible and likely reconciliation is that mixing of old and new specs occurred to use up remaining stock of old Tsubas and Seppas...." Link: https://www.warrelics.eu/forum/Japanese-militaria/short-development-history-type-95-gunto-676112-2/ I would love to see a confirmed 11mm tsuba on aluminum 95, but it's been very difficult to track one down, and now I've become suspicious. Best regards, -Sam