drbvac

Most if not all comments that I read have to be taken in context and who is saying them. The type of learning by rote that we older guys went through combined with a true respect , mostly earned, by the teachers we had usually resulted in individuals who could take any kind of criticism. There is nothing that beats knowledge combined with experience and one comes easier than the other, Having collected Nihonto for 20 years as a hobby only I can in no way pretend to be anywhere near an expert on any of it, and the respect for those that do will come through in the wording of the questions - which will be respected in the tone of the replies - at least that has been my experience. All the "true" experts on this board have responded to respectful questions with respectful answers and NIhinto is one area where a little knowledge can surely be a dangerous thing. Just because you did not get the answer you expected or wanted is not much of an excuse for bad behavior and if both sides of the learning equation are respectful - we all benefit!

Larry: Betcha reading Yumoto's Handbook ! Sori are usually just measured in cm and deep and shallow are relative terms like water - deep for some is over your head not the mariana trench - but I know what you are saying. The depth which is a measure of curvature can give hints as to the school and era of the blade and some will say older blades have deeper sori and the curvature is closer to the tang. Newer blades may be shallow sori and max depth nearer the middle. In my opinion 2 cm is medium if in the middle - but you have to look at it as one descriptor of many for someone who can't see it. Can't help you any more and maybe if you do a search of the forum you will find more info 't bo ps It sometimes takes a longer time for the "pros" to answer questions and if they have given the answer many times before they sometimes don't bother. Give em some time or wait - sooner or later someone will take a stab at it and if like me - I am wrong - someone will correct it!

This may sound weird but I have fitted tsuba that are close by making the copper sekigane using the lost wax method that dentists and lab techs use to make gold crowns for teeth! You make the sekigane with hard blue wax and fit it on the top and bottom and slightly up the sides of the blade then cast it in copper that I got from electrical wire. It is soft enough so you can burnish it against the tsuba opening so it doesn't fall out but not so hard to damage it at all.

Barry: I can see there is more definition in the carving on yours and it is funny when I look closely at the ones on mine they almost look "worn" but I can't figure what activity would burnish the iron like that. There are areas clear and sharp that blend into areas that almost disappear like it is supposed to be really ancient and this is on a gendaito Kanefusa

I have these iron fittings on my kanefusa and I believe they were made by Hirotoshi - 18th cent, also a kojiri on the saya. Would these be hard to work? I am sure the iron is much harder than copper or some of the other metals.

no glue

Jean: Odd that the Tsuka I showed is on my Naoe Shizu !

i'll give ya $250.00 for it ! :lol: :lol:

I believe this is the same and I can't imagine doing it!

Here's some of mine. I built and lacquered the individual stands so that I could display the blades and the mounts separately. Got this one on e-bay!

What he said ! One of the better dealers on e-bay.

I certainly don't package them any differently. I oil the blade, wrap it in saran wrap and then newspaper so it is failry thick. Put a wooden peg through a piece of wood strapping so it goes through the mekugiana, so it can't slide forward and backward and then tape and tie the whole package to the board. then I put it in a big packing tube with lots of packing in the ends and ship away! You sure don't want it to come sliding out of the package and through someones foot! Then they know what kind of antique you were referring to

I use Fed-ex and call the item "Japanese antique" and insure it for the proper amount. No problems yet

I found it in the book - BUT - i also believe and said that although the mounts on the scabbard are the correct shape they are not engraved with the same floral symbols but plain and the blade doesnt look all that great. I think that although it looks at fist glance like the real deal, Fuller says they are rare and if so would be surprised if it is authentic ! THoughts?

About 3/4 inch in front of the mekugiana, the nakago seems like it may have been welded on or attatched at that point. The line of the blade seems to flow down to that area and then it seems to change direction where it is pinched in but maybe I am being paranoid. There are lots out there that know more than I but I thought I would give ti a comment. Perhaps they are concerned if you are looking for opinions for purchase or sale - dont know!

Well it could be shinto from the appearance of the rust on the nakago but it does look a little funny just in front of the mekugiana, like it changes direction and is pinched and the area that would be under the habaki. I always hate to speculate on photos alone, and I sure there are lots of folks on here that are better at this than I! The mounts look pretty good

Not I -- although I watched it for 4 days and thought well - bid 1500 or 2 grand and 1500 didn't do it !

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0317771575 Missing a part weld er on and grind it off!

Now that u point that area out can see the wave so thanks - anything else that makes it not very good?

I too as a novice would like to hear why it is not a good polish by any standards and if it is no good what difference the cost unless he did it for nothing!

I have been looking for one of these for 10 years for less than 2 grand so if you got it for less than that -- well done. May have to add to my search : Chinese swords with Japanese mei

Oh well, not a bad forgery Brian. I'll give ya 20 bucks for it and pay the shipping

Lots of searching and don't remember the name at all. Some of the Aussie members may know.

Too bad you got caught and stuck with that disaster. I have dealt with only 3 or 4 sellers and depend more on the pictures than description , feed-back and length selling, it is still hard to be sure how trustworthy they are. Better ones often have separate web site. I always check return policies and cross my fingers. I have also found if too good to be true it isn't and too cheap to be real its not. Everyone has said, buyer beware, guess they are right, sometimes when 1000 miles from any dealers you get the fix for the addiction where you can, however you have to be careful and there are no real bargains on e-bay. Quality from long term dealers costs but you at least get what you expect - usually !

I agree and the speculation on the attribution may be just speculation on the price. Get it checked and if not -- I think its 20 years old and will give you $2000,00 for it right now :lol: