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Grey Doffin

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Everything posted by Grey Doffin

  1. Thanks guys. Grey
  2. Hi guys, Doing some indexing and have run against something I need help with. The book is Nihonto Zuikan, Shinto, 1984 edition, page 548. Kataoka-sama has him listed as Tamaki but I find no reference anywhere to smith with this name and I can't make the Kanji read Tamaki. The oshigata is right in the middle of 6 pages of Yamaura Masayuki oshigata so he must be the same smith or at least related somehow. Any of you know if Tamaki is the correct Romanji or if it is something else? Thanks, Grey
  3. How about, "Higo Futami no Junin"? Grey
  4. I agree, Mark, but why wouldn't they do the gimei on the correct sides? Grey
  5. Hi gang, Not wanting to hijack a thread I'm starting a new one. The sword in the thread: http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10115 got me thinking. The sword is signed Bizen something and dated 1189. Nothing made in Bizen in 1189 would have been signed as a katana; they made tachi back then. So how does this happen? We all know this is almost certainly a gimei but the gimei forgers must have known the difference between a tachi and katana, and I'm sure they knew that katana didn't exist in the 12th century. I'm unable to think of a rational explanation for this; any of you have an answer? Grey
  6. WWII. Grey
  7. Enough information for me; modern repro/fake, most likely from China. Grey
  8. Kanetsugu 兼 次 I believe, but I may be wrong about the Kane. Grey
  9. Junichi, Harry still has 3 or 4 of the volumes in stock. I bet he's on the links on the board. Grey
  10. Grey Doffin

    Katana ID

    It can't be Fukuoka Ichimonji school, John, because it is signed katana mei. Which calls the date into question, also. No Bizen sword from Kamakura time would be signed katana mei. I thought the nakago looked newer than the date says, and unless I've misread the date (don't think so), it must be. Also, there were no Sukesada from this early. A clumsy gimei, maybe? Translation for Najay (original poster). The signature on Japanese swords is supposed to be on the side of the tang that faces away from the wearer's body when worn on the left hip. Swords made in the time that your sword is dated to were worn edge down (tachi edge down and katana, which didn't exist at the early date, edge up). There were a few exceptions, for instance tachi of the Aoe School were signed katana mei, but no exceptions I'm aware of from Bizen. Gimei means fake signature; I'm wondering if that is what's happening here. I also think pictures of the whole blade will help us tell you what you have. Grey
  11. Grey Doffin

    Katana ID

    The date (top picture) reads, "Bunji Go Nen Hachi Gatsu Hi". A day in the 8th month of the 5th year of Bunji (1189). The signature I can make out says, "Bizen ? ? Ju Suke ? Saku". I'm sure someone more Japanese than me can read the rest. Grey
  12. Toru, If you live in The States you would do well to attend one of the 3 or 4 sword shows that occur every year. There you will be able to ask questions about specific pieces, get opinions, and learn much more than you would if you were to buy a piece online. If you're in Europe you might try to find a club with meetings you could attend. If in Japan there are no end of opportunities for you. If you live elsewhere you need to buy books and study. Grey
  13. Hi Marcello, Mutsu no Kami Kaneyasu 包保 Known as Migi Mutsu. The signature looks good. Grey
  14. Hi David, From what I know, there will be no shinsa at the show this month in Chicago. The next shinsa in The States is this October in Minneapolis. Grey
  15. I'm sure the blade dates to WWII. Grey
  16. Rather than using alcohol I'd use warm water and a soft brush. Tooth brush works well. I'd be hesitant to use alcohol fearing I'd find out the hard way that it disturbs the patina. Work the rust loose with sword oil and ivory/antler and wash it off with water and brush. Grey
  17. Justin, It's possible to tell this is cast without seeing close ups of the parting line. Everything is too soft and lumpen, the walls of the sukashi aren't vertical cuts, and the edges of the nakago hitsu ana, where the soft metal pieces would sit to protect the blade from abrasion and fit the tsuba correctly, show no definition. This isn't an Edo era piece. Looks to have been made quite recently in Hurry. Grey
  18. Check with a piano tuner; you might be able to get some old keys. You won't need much; 1 key's worth of ivory will last a long time. Grey
  19. Hi David, Let me encourage you to attend the show in Minneapolis. You will be able to learn just what you have, see many other swords and fittings, and meet some of us who have been posting about your sword. Chris and Larry (the show's Big Kahunas) always put on a great time, with quite a few exhibits and demonstrations all related to Nihonto and/or Japanese culture. I'd be very surprised if you aren't very glad you went. Cheers, Grey
  20. Hi, name please, There are no Ujifusa in John Slough's book; odds are you won't be able to learn much of anything about the smith. The odds that you can learn anything of this particular sword's history before it left Japan are pretty near zero. The red paint will be numbers (inventory and/or assembly) and won't tell you anything useful. Grey
  21. Matus, Do read Facts and Fundamentals, and then read it again. And then read everything you can get your hands on. Make a list of all the English language books (and any other language you can read) and see how many your local library can get for you. Grey
  22. Hi James, So the Zen Buddhist monk walks into a burger joint and says, "Make me one with everything". It isn't that easy. You're asking us to condense decades of reading and experience into a few paragraphs and it just isn't possible. You want to buy a good sword? Study. Grey
  23. Hi Lokke, As long as the blades are antique you shouldn't have to pay anything to get them through US customs; no import duty on antiques, I believe. They will have to be cleared for export on the Japanese end and that can take time. A gun case will work well for flying with the swords; I would guess you can get one or something similar in Japan. If you're going to have the blades shipped to you from Japan, someone else can advise you on the best carrier to use. If you have the blades mounted expect a wait and a big expense to do it right. Normally a tanto and katana wouldn't be in matching mounts; that was done for wakizashi and katana. If you have a new saya made you can store the blade in either the new mounts or the shira-saya, and if you plan to keep both you would have a tsunagi (wooden blade) made to hold together the empty rig. Grey
  24. Hi Matus, The difference between a practical sword and an artistic one, if there is a difference, might be what you'll learn with years of study. There are no cheat sheets with Nihonto, no hints to help the novice instantly gain knowledge. As with every other complex subject, diligent study is necessary. And it does make sense to buy 10 books at once; in fact it makes much more sense than buying a sword before you've bought, read, and understood at least 10 good books. I believe there is a recommended book list in the FAQs of the Message Board. Grey
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