cabowen

Think I know where you got those! I almost bought either that guinomi or one very similar. Fukushima is another of my recent favs...The iga tokkuri I posted above is by him!

The "streaks" are visible layers of steel. Sometimes they become visible when there are slightly incomplete welds and voids opens. Sometimes these are there from the beginning, other times, after many polishes. Usually the steel in the shinogi is quite thick so it takes a lot of metal removal to "tire" a blade in the shinogi. Other times, using acids when polishing will etch out the softer layers of steel and make the "grain" more visible. If the blade doesn't appear to have been polished a lot, it may be caused by the latter explanation above. Hate to see people learn this way that amateur polishers are about the worst thing you can do to a sword...

Ok, hope no one minds if I post a few more..... Two kuro tanba by one of my new favorite potters (Onishi Masafumi) and one iga...

Nothing. Many times though an older box has issues that render it unfit or less than ideal for its intended purpose. Wood warps and shrinks, joints become loose, insects chew holes, cracks develop, etc., all of which can cause poor sealing.

My feeling is Muromachi. Just doesn't look Kamakura old to me...Lots of Muromachi period blades still around, not so many from the Kamakura era.

皇紀二千六百三年三月吉日 Yes, Koki 2603, March, lucky day....

I think it would be admitted but from what I understand, it is something that seems to be frowned upon in some corners. It is a loophole that I am surprised has yet to be formally closed. If more took advantage of it, it probably would be...

Dated March, 1943. Decent smith.

Nice pots! Thanks for sharing.....

You guys are good! You got it....Here are some others of his....

Sorry, but I don't have any of them here yet so I can't take a photo!

All nice! The problem with ceramics for me is there is there are just too many that grab me! They are like crack! I have limited myself to guinomi (sake cups) and a few tokkuri (sake decanters) and the odd hanaire (vase), etc. So many amazing things out there...The best part of it for me is I couldn't care less for the most part who makes them or even if they are fake! I just buy what grabs me for the most part. Sometimes, like with Nagaoka san, I loved his pottery and really thought highly of him as a person as well. Knowing the artist adds that extra dimension. Here are a few from my recent fall off the wagon....I bought the white as a complement to the black....can't wait to use them this summer when I am in Japan...I have a few more on the radar... By the way, one of those below was made by a potter here in the US. About 2 hours away from me actually! He does wonderful work in the Japanese style with his anagama kiln. He is making me three giant hikidashi-guro tea bowls to use for bathroom sinks! Guess which of these wasn't made in Japan!

Kuzan Oda....

Thanks....Nice to see we have something in common! Iga, Shigaraki, some Echizen (Kumano)....the krusty kilns are my favs...though recently I have been interested in setoguro/hikidashi (black) work too...

Be aware that there are many errors in the article. Considering when it was written, that is not surprising. It is an honest effort and worth reading, keeping in mind the caveat. I will be sending Danny a supplement to clarify certain info in a week or so.

You're welcome....

Kaminari-yoke at the top, below, Iga no Kami Rai Kinmichi

Sorry, I have no larger photos. I believe that is a modern piece that was made by a friend of mine, Nagaoka Masami. He lived quite near me in Izu and worked in Iga and Shigaraki styles. He often worked in an older style. I loved his work and was really saddened to learn of his passing 2 years ago.

Thanks! Iga yaki is my favorite!

Very nice! If I hadn't just gone on a binge and bought 6 guinomi.....

1600's....

越州住下坂 Esshu ju Shimosaka

You ought to try camellia oil too as that is also traditionally used on edged tools in Japan...

Many oils, such as tung oil, etc., "cure" through polymerization (molecules combining to form long chains) and oxidation (combining with oxygen from the air). Here is the Eezox MDF: http://www.eezox.info/msds.pdf Not too enticing...

I picked up some Eesox the other day. It is said to dry after application. I wonder about buildup over time and how easy it is to remove. Any chance you could look at these issues at the conclusion of the corrosion test with your test samples?