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Andi B.

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Andi B. last won the day on September 21

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About Andi B.

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    Jo Jo Saku
  • Birthday 08/14/1971

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  • Location:
    near Munich, Germany
  • Interests
    Nihonto, DIY projects

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    Andi B.

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  1. Sad news! (I met him only once - end of October last year when he won the Kantei-Session at Tokyo Sword Museum...)
  2. Andi B.

    2nd Menuki Question??

    Dave, menuki should be a matching pair, but that doesn't mean that the menuki are identical! See below examples. Also the correct placement when mounted is important. I read somewhere in this forum: - in case of an animal motif, the “heads” should be oriented toward fuchi while the “tails” should be oriented toward kashira; - in case of a plant motif, the “roots” should be oriented toward fuchi while the flowers, leaves or fruits should be oriented toward kashira.
  3. Hello again, What is the best solution to clean the urushi parts of an armour? I want to remove dust and grime and maintain/preserve the surface. Dry microfibre, oil, wax...? Thanks! Oh, I should stop cutting missing horn parts and better play with the cat...
  4. Not sure about wabi sabi in tsuba but here's one with an intentionally "matured" surface...(?) And for entertainment a knothole (church pew in Amsterdam) and a railing (pavilion, Okochi Sanso Garden, Kyoto).
  5. Hello, here is a nice kinko kogai with a wild boar motif. It has a distinctive warabite carved in and is inscribed on the back with gimei Kikuoka Mitsuyuki (kaō) – 菊岡光行. How would you experts classify this piece? Any idea about school & age?
  6. I think, that could be the reason. I made a DIY tanto with habaki before I started collecting. Here you can see the file marks on the habaki and the yasurime on the nakago. I'm left handed and I'm simply not able to file in the common direction, so I did it my way...
  7. Nagasa under 1 shaku is a tanto... And shape is tanto too...
  8. Ken, but check in advance if your new player can be set region free (not every model can be switched). ...that's why I need two players - one is for (the real) Zatoichi only...
  9. Obviously there is a bent part of the rim still at the feet. What else is this??? Should be easy to draw a rim over the picture and then we see how it looks like. Probably similar to this: https://images.app.goo.gl/f6uyRA79NwF8JxFN6
  10. While performing initial yaki-ire the blade should still have an unsharpened edge to avoid any hardening cracks. After a fire damage isn't it required to reshape the blade to a 'new born' shape to withstand a second hardening process? This followed by a new foundation and final polish, I assume the blade will lose a noticeable amount of steel. So could mizukage on a very healthy blade speaks against a re-tempering?
  11. Currently I'm trying to built my first tsuka so I had to cut a piece (cleaned area) out of a big ray skin. Such skins have lot of different areas with different nodule sizes. It could be used for more than one tsuka but the others would look a bit cheap/boring because of too small and even nodule sizes. I think a full wrap adds much strenght to a tsuka - the dried skin is incredible hard!
  12. Hi Tom, would like to see #27 in real... PM sent...
  13. Andi B.

    Kata-kiri bori

    Great tsuba! But I assume this piece is in a non Japanese private collection...
  14. Hi, while thinking about OP question I ask myself the following: I assume unhardened low carbon shingane has a similar hardness as unhardened high carbon kawagane. The parts affected by heat treatment are kawagane only, so I wonder, why shingane is used at all... Has it impact on stability or is it rather used to save on expensive and rare high carbon steel...?
  15. A sword without hamon (means no heat treatment = no hardening) doesn't make any sense. Maybe unhardened kawagane is slightly 'harder' then shingane but it's still too soft. There is a reason for yaki-ire...
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