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Lee Bray

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Everything posted by Lee Bray

  1. Definitely authentic Japanese work. Masamitsu, though no comment whether it is gimei or not. Are the kanji in gold or have you highlighted them with talc? Difficult to tell in the photo. If it's fresh rust giving the colouration, have a search here for nakago care and get some light mineral oil on it. Repolish? Considering your initial cost, it's certainly a viable option but it looks in pretty good condition anyway. If the tip was intact, I'd say leave it alone until you can get to a sword show and have an expert try and identify it in hand.
  2. You know you're onto a winner when the opening scene shows a claw hammer ready for action...
  3. Lee Bray

    Katana find

    I could very well be wrong but to me the tameshimei looks fake. It looks very crudely done and scratchy compared to the cutting tests I've seen.
  4. Perhaps the taper at the jiri of the nakago is sufficient that the appropriately shaped habaki slides over without fouling? Purely speculation on my part but it looks possible from the picture.
  5. Rather off topic but amusing - I recently finished restoring a friend's sgian dubh which his Grandfather left to him. He'd heard that he should keep the blade oiled so he used.... .... margarine! Word to the wise. Don't use margarine on your nihonto.
  6. I saw this restored yari on another forum and wondered if lacquering was perhaps originally done as a shortcut to finishing the blade, thinking that a coat of lacquer would be a lot quicker to apply than finish polishing the hi and/or kerakubi. With your above comment, I guess not. As a polisher, do you think it is quicker to lacquer than polish, regardless of cost?
  7. It looks like an Indonesian golok. Water buffalo horn handle.
  8. Looks corroded. Maybe it was laying in a river for a while, found, re-finished and sold. ?
  9. You having phantom moderator problems already, Guido? Wish I was there...and no, nothing to do with the direction this thread turned...
  10. Hi Marc, Thanks for the tip. It certainly does appear to be Tembo school as you suggest.
  11. Thanks for taking the effort, Guido. Sorry to see you go.
  12. Courtesy of Aoi-Art. https://www.aoi-art.com/gunto/09413.html
  13. Boy...tough crowd. No one has any thoughts on this piece? Is my attribution way off?
  14. This is the tsuba I'll be putting toward the NMB draw, viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6193, and since I know little about it, I thought your comments may assist the future owner. Thanks for any help. I believe it's Nara school, late 18th century. Iron. 83mm x 76.5mm. 5mm Dote mimi, thinner at seppa dai. 28mm nakago ana. Reasonable quality plate. Ana seem cleanly cut and finished so I assume saw and file, hence my late date attribution.
  15. I think in this case the answer would be "to get away from that dodgy Ford Hallam character..." :D
  16. Looks like a Chinkatana - a fake made in China. Nakago has 'that look' and the tsuba looks cast and crude. You have any pictures of the kissaki and any close ups of any activity/grain pattern in the steel?
  17. Patrick Hastings is the guy who owns Tagane Arts. A finer fellow you will not find. He's a member and moderator at Ford's site which Brian linked to, so should be contactable there.
  18. Could well be, Joe. Found this with a quick google. http://www.888knivesrus.com/product/CD0 ... TANTO.html Same sugata, habaki, look of "petrified dog turdiness"... :D (Sorry, cisco-san...it's Guido's fault.)
  19. I believe the reason people do not like oil on their nakago is when they are actual practitioners of a sword martial art and the blade is their user blade. Obviously, in their case, they want good friction between the nakago and the tsuka. Oil is not going to be welcome. My own view for an antique blade that needs preserving is, yes, use oil on the rust. It's not the final solution and the active rust needs to be boned off but if oil is your only option, use it. The nakago is generally the only part of a blade that is handled by our grubby paws so I see good reason for giving it a little oil from time to time.
  20. There's no mention of him in Tom Kishida's "The Yasukuni Swords" book so I'd assume no direct connection with the Yasukuni forge.
  21. I know that blade smiths use vinegar to loosen up fire scale on their blades after forging. Soak overnight and brush the scale off with a wire brush. Doesn't sound a particularly pleasant way of dealing with an antique tsuba though so please don't take that as a recommendation. I have no idea what the vinegar will do with the old patina but cetainly imagine the brush will do it no favours. So, I figure vinegar may be helpful, but will leave it for the knowledgeable guys to say whether I'm an idiot for even mentioning it.
  22. If the work is well done...probably not always the case and so Reinhard's post makes perfect sense.
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