Dr Fox

David Thanks for your reply, its unfortunate that I only had the tsuba for a moment, and a person with a phone camera. Despite a request to capture as i had placed the tsuba, it went from bad to worse. So I am out of luck with the images. But thanks anyway. Denis

Opinions please. I have been offered a Tsuba said to be from the 1700’s described as ‘Shoami school’ Crane feeding. Are you able to tell anything from these hastily taken photos. Size through nakago ana to edges 80mm. Edge 3mm Hate to miss it, if its real. Denis.

George No cleverness here, got it! it was under the search button. Must learn to go there first. Denis.

Hi Again George and thanks. Where I was stuck and could not relate to the, stamp was that I did not have a translation of the mei. I now have Kanekiyo, this should be a little test for me. A Showa smith, non traditional blade, 1940ish. I should have a go at this one. Denis.

Hi Curtis and George Could you expand on this signature, and especially the stamp? Why? Because yesterday on a visit to a close friend, he showed me an identical sword with the nakago stamped thus. He had a curiosity, but no idea what is was. Thanks Denis.

Adrian I did not allude to Japanese vocabulary in my post, perhaps this is where a slight translation error has occurred! I said "those terms"meaning the terms of the discussion in the various topics. If you go away with this opinion, I feel you have missed the points, of many who gave you well meaning advice. Denis.

Adrian Go to Forum Nihonto Topic Shikkake Hada Read the exchanges between those gentlemen, open all the links spend a good time there. Eavesdropping on those posts is an education. And think when you can converse in those terms, you are a serious student of sword art at its best. That's where you will find your mentors. Denis.

Adrian Not having English as your first tongue, I must say that your written skills are second to none; now your not kidding this old Pilgrim, are you? You wanted more! I cant see what more you could have had, every point you raised is right here in previous posts, and it wont take you 10 years to find them. I had a sword interest long before I started my bookwork. I started at 59 now I am 69, and you at 40, definitely don't see your self, reading books for the next 10 years. It all comes down to how serious you regard the subject. Should you spend your money unwisely, you will spend the next 10 yrs staring at that piece of steel, and it will teach you nothing, except caution. I really do wish you well to whatever standard you wish to attain. Regards Denis.

Adrian I was exactly where you are now! But for some 10 years I bought books, visited fairs, and viewed swords at any location where they could be found. Only recently did I place myself in real dealers hands, with a view to purchase. So why? If I had the money, did I bother spending lots on books, travel and associated costs? If I added that money to what I already had, I could have made a more expensive purchase, and ‘there now I have a Samurai sword! For me it comes down to two categories, collectors of Nihonto, and buyers of swords. The start I gave myself, showed me the blade as an art object, its use as a weapon in its day was a secondary fact. Even my scant knowledge, now gave me an insight into what I found pleasurable, and what I wanted to live with. Any other areas of ‘collecting’ will no way prepare you for the subject you are discussing here, this is a stand alone subject, there are members on here, who have spent the greater part of their lives on this study. Others and I will advise you, but I fear you will do what you want, unfortunately you will join the ranks of others whose posts read, ”Oh have I slipped up”. You summed up your situation your self Q.I'm far from being able to figure out all the flaws and qualities of a Japanese blade even when looking at it Q. If you would take a moment to read what you have already said, it comes across that you, are self confessed to make appraisals yourself, In blade, mounts, and tsuba’s, so I am wondering ‘What exactly are you asking for? Denis.

Ok Peter and Mark thanks. Denis.

Hi Are any members going to the Arms fair at Birmingham,(Coventry) on the 17th Feb? if so fancy a meet up there? I will watch this topic in case. Regards Denis.

Malcolm The answer is in the sale description. (The Tsuka is in great condition and the Tsuka-ito is made from leather,) Denis.

Hi Keith Thanks for your comments, longer term members (you from 2009 ) may see this as a frequently visited topic, but for newer members this was a new live debate. If you maintain that there is ‘nothing’ raised in this latest debate, and I mean nothing, that has not been fully exercised previously. Then I agree with you, you have revisited a tired topic. You rightly state there is the FAQ’s, and the search facilities on the board, this is where I shall seek any answers in future. Brian I can certainly live with that! Cheers Denis.

Hi again Keith Can I clarify a point before I assume the label as a .which I assume you picked up from my post. Chogi oil as a long term protective is a no no. Nor is any of the other vegetable, flower or animal derivatives, I am well aware of that, and it was remiss of me not to state so at the time.It is stated here , that oils recommended for firearms is a good bet, and so they are, but only if they meet strict criteria as non evaporators. In the gun trade I oft have firearms (shotguns in paticular) brought in that have ceased to function. The works are gummed up, due to the so called ‘gun oil’ evaporating, and leaving the adhesive carrier behind as a glue. I use, Electrolube LWP a military firearms oil of high spec, its credentials are faultless, being available on Nato stock 9150-99-414-6509. I service Browning shotguns for customers every 4 years, and without exception the internals are immaculate, with this oil still in place and protecting. I don’t apologize for going on a little, as I would like to be regarded as a ‘newbee’ not a ‘numpty’. Denis.

Thank you Jean Respect for what you are saying,but we are gliding past each other on a few points. ,After I have lightly powdered the oiled blade, I place the prepared paper just below the habaki area. This area is is not powdered, with my fingers in firm contact with the blade, I sweep or pushthe powder off the blade, this is a forward movement the complete length of the blade. I don't feel the uchico in pressure, at any point during the method I use. Sanjuro stated he cleaned rust off blades with such a mixture, but I feel assured, it was not in the quantity of powder I use, nor without a great deal of pressure in a scrubbing motion. So I can't accept this applies.I find it difficult to come to terms with the thought that, a sword dealer shows me how to clean and care for my blades, respected sword smiths demonstrate exactly the same, yet neither indicate that what I am doing, is injurious to my swords polish! Ken I take comfort in your words, as it confirmed two points, I was clumsily trying to make, thanks also to you. Denis

Congratulations, you have become part of this swords history, from the day it was made. Respect. Denis.

Jean My reference to stones, was based on my understanding that uchico was ground wet stone (wrong?) This I tied in with your comment "None of them works satisfyingly with oil of the lubricating type." And did this then, effect the powder on oil, on the blade. In an earlier post on this thread, I mentioned pushing the powder in front of the paper, not trapping it under, against the blade. I am now almost resolved to oil my blades, and leave them in that condition, no rust, no scratching, got to be the best outcome. Regards for your patience Denis.

I have had a conversation with a toolmaker I know, he uses and sharpens edged tools. Luckily he also has a working knowledge of Japanese sword steel. The subject got around to sharpening stones, two in particular, oil and water stones. As explained to me, an oilstone can be used with both oil and water. A water stone is intended for use with water only, oil reduces the effectiveness of a wetstone, it smooth’s the stone and it does not allow the slurry created to clear. The oil chosen for the oilstone is also tailored for that task, so where’s this all going? My oil is a mineral and as such is a protective, not a lubricant; the uchico powder arrives on the blade as a fine powder. Could it not be, that the oil will coat the powder, and reduce its ability to score the hardened steel of the sword jacket? Is this known? And is this why this method is acceptable? Denis

Alex, Keith Thanks both. Denis

For me a comparative beginner, this has turned into a most interesting thread. But it has also left me with one foot on the boat, and the other on the dock, so to speak. When I picked up my swords from the Japanese Gallery, great pains were taken to show, and have me clean and oil a blade ( a non value blade was used) Uchico and oil were used, starting behind the powder, the paper was pushed along the blade, pushing the uchico ahead of the paper, at no time was the powder under the paper. For me this was the way to go, I don’t want to damage in any way my swords, so I am taking notice of all being said here. A question I had was “How absorbent is Uchico, that it is able to soak up oil?” Then last night to add to my confusion, I viewed the excellent video in the Takeshi series on Yoshindo Yoshihara, no one can refute this gentleman’s sword knowledge. He demonstrated the cleaning of a blade and yes, he used uchico powder, and unless the translation was wrong, it stated that the powder absorbed the oil! So I now believe, this must come down to a personal choice, of which method to use. Regards Denis.

Thanks for the responses guys, He had the blades polished by a respectable polisher, I don't have a name. All the swords he owns are shown at their best, including the military. Another deciding factor of course, will be sale prices. I will keep you in mind Jareth. Regards Denis.

Josh And a good two cents it is too, this collector owns about 45 Nihonto, The military blades have had their blades polished, one was purchased from a top London dealer, and has a surrender tag. There is no mistrust on my part here, its just that I wanted to have a little knowledge, as to what to expect, just so I could avoid looking stupid, working out of my field so to speak. Denis

Hi I am turning to the Military collectors amongst us, for some advice. I have been given the exclusive opportunity, to purchase a private collection of 7 Military swords, all gunto type, at least 4 signed, with 1 gendaito included, all with military koshirae. My question is, what would you say are the no no's, in buying military swords of this type? Thanks in anticipation Denis.

Junichi So sorry for your troubles, and respect you posting the occurrence here. From your post, it is obvious that you are aware of the advice given here, about the extreme caution needed to deal with anyone, without having the item in hand. Your honesty in this case would hopefully advise others, but I am afraid yours, won't be the last case we hear of. I sincerely hope you get a satisfactory resolution. Denis.

Ok Jean. I am good to go. I am lucky to be an ex aero modeller, and I have a good friend who still is. He has a supply of good wood veneers; it when wet will conform to any shape, then when dry, retains that shape, you can see where I am going here, it’s worth playing with. My thinking is: that conforming the veneer to the habaki then shape the koiguchi to accept the insert would be the easier job. Cheers. Hi Malcolm It’s a yes to your observation! When I first started to examine the saya as a problem, it looked to me as though the koiguchi had broken up and fallen out. As per my first photo, its not pretty. But there is actually a seat for the mune. When I thought of fitting the habaki alone, the uneven proportions were very visible. I like you suspected a ‘miss-fit’ of parts here. Comparing to other saya’s I have, and that point becomes very apparent. To address this, the habaki should be let into the ha area a little more, this will allow inserts into the mune area and “lift” the habaki. I don’t have any choice on this course of action, as the koiguchi is fitted with a metal reinforce band, the mune will ride on this, unless great care is taken in blade return. Denis. Ps. During all the above regular, trials with the habaki and blade into the saya need to be done.