Grey Doffin

Hi Todd, I would call that ko-itame or even itame. Konuka is a much finer grain, very close to muji or no grain. Of course, my opinion and a buck gets you on the bus. Grey

Note to mods: If you think this post doesn't belong on NMB feel free to boot it off. Hi guys, Ebay's new fee structure, despite all their hype about record low fees, really sticks it to those of us who sell a few expensive items a year. Have any of you had good experiences selling swords and/or pricey books on different sites that charge less than ebay? Grey

Hi guys, The link to Harry Watson's website (afuresearch.com) doesn't work. Anyone know if he has a new site? Thanks, Grey

Not difficult at all. Put the blade on the floor, stand on a chair, and take the picture. Crop and post. Grey

Yes, I was wrong on the date. It is the 19th year of a 60 year cycle that began in 1924, not the 19th year of Showa, which began in 1926. The year is 1942; you're right Charlie. Grey

I think the date reads, "Showa Midzumoye Uma Haru" or Showa 19 spring, or spring of 1944. The 3 Kanji on the nakago mune are a number, 262 I believe. Anyone care to correct me? Grey

The signature is "Koa Isshin Mantates Kin Saku" All Asia one heart Manchurian steel respectfully made. The other side is the date: Showa and a zodiacal number which I can't read offhand. If no one beats me to it maybe I'll bet it for you. Grey

Hi Jan, Here's some help. Buy books and study before you buy blades. Grey

Yes, that is what I'm saying. Of course, I can't be certain since I wasn't there when the tsuba was made, but I've never seen a bright brass or copper tsuba that wasn't improperly polished. If the original condition was bright, users/collectors of past centuries would have kept them that way and the tsuba wouldn't have come down to us in more muted colors. Also, as a general rule, never mess with anything old and or valuable unless you're absolutely sure you know what you're doing. Amateurs who try to restore old pieces of art would save considerable time and achieve similar results if they left the art alone and instead set their money on fire. Grey

The patina of a tsuba was chosen by its maker; the metal was treated to give it a desired feel and color and also to protect it from corrosion. NEVER polish a tsuba or other piece of kodogu to its original luster; that luster wasn't original. Grey

Rich, This side is the date: Showa Ju Ku Nen Ku Gatsu, or September of 1944. Grey

Show it to a properly trained polisher; ask his opinion. Then you'll know what makes sense. Grey

The mei on the tanto is a date, Keio something. Keio 1 is 1865. Grey

May be just my computer (or me) but I can't get any of the links on NMB to work. Never mind; now they work. Grey

Let me add, for the benefit of newcomers and maybe a few of the others, that it isn't only how shiny the sword ends up looking that matters. A proper polish removes enough of the blade to leave it with the correct for it's age and school geometry, and not an ounce more. The color of the steel has to be right, the grain has to present itself properly, and all the activity in the hamon needs to be visible. If there is going to be a defect surfacing the polisher needs to know what to do about it. And dozens other of details need to be seen to. Saying nothing about the polish or polisher in question (I don't know who Eric is), but speaking of polish in general, if you are going to have a sword polished make very certain that the polisher has proper training. Grey

Hi Rich, If you are talking about small pieces wadded up and tucked under the tsuka ito, this is common practice to make the ito seat properly and stay where it belongs. Whatever paper was handy would have been used; no significance to the paper choice. Grey

Hi Dale, About 3 years ago I sold a sword to China. USPS international priority mail with insurance and no shucking or jiving on the customs form (listed it as antique sword, I think); all went well. Perhaps things have changed since then (don't know) but maybe you'll have no difficulty. Grey

That is my impression also, but I'm not 100% sure of it. I think someone who knows Nihonto well (a properly trained polisher, for example) should take a look at the blade before we toss it on the scrap heap. Grey

Hi Steve, And before you go make sure you are 100% up to snuff with sword etiquette/handling. Grey

Chris, There is no question that the sword is genuine; it is. What is being questioned is the authenticity of the signature. Just like with oil paintings, for centuries there have been fake signatures affixed to Japanese swords. Grey

Mick, Rather than ask us to volunteer to make enemies (who to stay away from) you should ask the polishers you're considering to tell you about their training. Those with proper training should be fine; the rest you should stay clear of. Grey

Hi Geoff, The date is, "Showa Ju Ku Nen Shichi Gatsu Hi". A day in the 7th month of Showa 19, July 1944. The signature isn't as easy for me. Something Tomokane Saku? Maybe. Grey

For me too. Grey

I don't have the whole mei, just Takahashi Naganobu for the smith's name and bits here and there of the rest. I looked in Hawleys for some help and the listing says he never signed the same way twice. Interesting. Grey

How do I insert smilies? Drag & drop doesn't work for me and I can't think how else makes sense. Thanks, Grey