My recent purchase - SHIN GUNTO TYPE 98

[Krzysio]

Love to hear what you guys think of this sword?

This is my first hand made sword. Practically I know nothing about swords other that I love them.

 

What I know is info got from the seller.

 

Shin Gunto Type 98

Japanese army officers Samurai sword from World War 2.

The blade is signed Amachi Kanenaga

Traditionally made Gendaito

The mountings are high end Type 98 Shin Gunto

One half of the koiguchi at the throat of the scabbard is missing.

Blade length of 26 inches (66cm).

Soshu-style notare hamon that is present the length of the blade, photos dont show well.

 

Your opinion will be very appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[John C]

Kris:

Probably just the wrinkle in the fabric, however the kissaki looks odd. How does it look in hand?

Also, and you probably already know this, the tassel is a company grade tassel meaning Lieutenent or Captain (or could be warrant officer as well).

 

John C.

[Krzysio]

 

Here are some more photos John. There are some small stains and scratches. Now that i look there is a tiny bend in the tip too.

 

[mecox]

Kris,  pic better this way.  More on swordsmith (also see Naval Swords part 1 in NMB Downloads at top of page for examples)

Looks to be well made and saya looks interesting custom work?

 

Kanenaga, Amaike Ginjiro (包永天池 銀次郎) (older brother of Masatsune) 
born 4 September, 1884 (Showa 17), registered as Seki smith at Seki 15 June, 1941 (Showa 16) and living at Daimon-cho, Seki-machi. He may not have made (many) Navy swords.

Kanenaga died March 8th 1958 (Showa 33, his posthumous Buddhist name was Enkaku Chikyō (円覚智鏡).
Common mei: Nōshū Seki no jū Kanenaga kore saku (濃州関之住包永作之), Kanenaga (包永)

 

 

 

[Bruce Pennington]

You did well, Kris.  We often see spots and stains, especially at the tip, both officer and NCO blades.  I think moisture gets in and sits in the end of the saya causing the stains.  My RJT blade has even more stains than that.

[Krzysio]

What you guys think of using Mink Oil Leather Conditioner on saya leather cover?

I can see it will help. Mink Oil offers polish, conditioning, and protection. It nourishes leather, keeping it soft, flexible, and shiny, while providing waterproofing and stain resistance to prevent cracks and fading.

Or is this a big NO NO?

 

 

 

[John C]

Kris:

As a leather worker, I would be careful with natural oils like mink oil because they can darken leather. Neatsfoot oil MIGHT darken the leather but usually doesn't. Another option are conditioners used on high-end purses, like Coach conditioner. Bick also makes a good conditioner.

Personally, I use either Coach leather conditioner or Neatsfoot.

 

John C.

[robinalexander]

Kris. I am not familiar with Mink Oil but I have always used Renapur ...best thing since sliced bread.

 

Search "everywhere" on NMB for RENAPUR and you will pick up a lot of info on that plus other dressings.

[Krzysio]

Thank you guys

 

My search yield these results.

 

 

Natural oils 

 

Neatsfoot oil:   A traditional, highly effective conditioner that restores suppleness to leather. It can also darken leather. 

Mink oil:  Provides excellent water-repellent properties and a glossy finish. 
Almond oil:  Rich in saturated fats, it is excellent for moisturizing and protecting leather from dryness. 
Lanolin oil:  Derived from sheep's wool, this is a powerful conditioner that leaves leather feeling very soft. 
Hemp oil:  A sustainable option that doesn't leave a glossy finish and is good for waterproofing. 

Renapur:  Leather Balsam is highly recommended. It goes a long way and is neutral in colour, so can be used on any color waxy leather.

 

Commercial conditioners

 

Lexol Leather Conditioner: A pH-balanced, synthetic option that cleans, conditions, and protects. 

Obenauf's Leather Oil: A heavy-duty conditioner designed for rugged leather and harsh conditions. 
Bickmore Bick 4 Leather Conditioner: A versatile and gentle product that conditions, cleans, and polishes. 

 

What to avoid

 

 Mineral oil: Can trap moisture, leading to dry rot, and may cause a loss of color. 

Olive oil: Can lead to long-term damage to the leather's texture and longevity. 

 

So many options. 

Dont think i want to go for super glossy finish. Looks like Mink oil will do that.

Neatsfoot may darken the leather.

 

Lanolin and Renapur may be the best option.

 

The leather on my saya is very dry and I think applying oil will not hurt it. It will only help in preserving the piece.

 

 

[John C]

Kris:

The issue with natural oils is that they are high in fats, which attract bacteria and become rancid. High quality conditioners usually do not. Another consideration is the type of leather. My guess is that saya covers were made out of oil tanned leatner (as opposed to vegetable tanned leather). This makes them more pliable and weather resistant (think about purse or jacket leather compared to holster or sheath leather). In that case, a high quality conditioner is all you should need. 

I make wallets, gun holsters, knife sheaths, and key fobs from vegetable tanned leather, either natural or dyed, conditioned with neatsfoot oil and finished with resolene. I have never had a problem with the leather darkening. It may be a different story with oil tanned leather, however.

 

John C.

[Krzysio]

Thanks John

 

Just Look in to Coach Leather Moisturizer

 

It says Coach Leather Moisturizer may be used on all Coach Leathers except buffalo, calfskin, suede or hair calf leathers. And they recommend regular cleaning and conditioning every three months.

Don't want to keep applying more than maybe once a year to keep it healthy. 

Want to keep original look of the leather.