Jimmy R Posted December 29, 2016 Report Posted December 29, 2016 Without going into a long discussion about the aspects of petroleum chemistry that make it the best product for protection of nihonto I will just be to the point. Petroleum distillate is comprised of hydrocarbons. Said hydro carbons can be of varying density depending on how tightly packed the carbon branch is. This creates a polarization that repels moisture because the H2o will have nothing to bond with. Therefore the water will simply evaporate. This evaporation also creates an interaction with the surrounding wood. If the wood is saturated with oil, at some point corrosion can occur because moisture is easily trapped in the cellulose of the wood. Remember, cellulose is just open cells devoid of their cytoplasmic constituents and is made to hold moisture. Also, due to varying changes in temperature and humidity moisture will move easily into dry spaces due to thermodynamic and fluid transport properties. Dense mineral oil sold here in Japan is what I use. And like I said, wiping it on in a very small amount is all you will ever need. Quote
vajo Posted December 29, 2016 Report Posted December 29, 2016 Is that this WD 40? WD-40 Multifunktionsprodukt 500 ml Smart Straw, 41034 https://www.amazon.de/WD-40-Multifunktionsprodukt-Smart-Straw-41034/dp/B003UTV08E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483040852&sr=8-1&keywords=wd+40 I use camelia oil. If WD 40 is better i would change. Should i do that? Regards Chris Quote
ROKUJURO Posted December 29, 2016 Report Posted December 29, 2016 Chris,Camellia (not camelia) does not smell so strongly. I would not want that WD40 smell on a blade! There are different properties that one has to look for. Many industrial lubricants are designed for moving parts like in bearings. What we need on a blade is a very stable, but thin adhesive layer of oil to prevent air/oxygen to get into contact with the metal surface for a certain time. This is no easy task as many hydrocarbons have the tendency to run off when their viscosity is too low or to contract after a while forming drops when their viscosity is too high. It is a complicated protection system, and the Japanese have found a traditional way which works in their climate. I think Camellia oil might work fine, but a lot depends on how often you clean your blades and how they are stored. A quality SHIRA SAYA and a dry climate may make oiling even obsolete if you control your blades on a regular basis. 1 Quote
Stephen Posted December 29, 2016 Author Report Posted December 29, 2016 and two pages we are back on the old oil tug.... 1 Quote
ROKUJURO Posted December 29, 2016 Report Posted December 29, 2016 Yes, Stephen,it is a never ending story! Sometimes it is tradition versus science, and then trying new wonder products, and then back to the ancestors (or roots). In the end, it is experience and knowledge which count. Quote
vajo Posted December 30, 2016 Report Posted December 30, 2016 Thank you Jean for the explanation. I use the camellia oil also for our kitchen Knifes. In my house the climate is dry between 40 and 50. Quote
Stephen Posted December 31, 2016 Author Report Posted December 31, 2016 Thanks to a kind member i was given a store location in GA. I bought two, one for a friend, only to find he has some of his own. so if you want one ill sell one for 10$. shipping per location flat rate envelope and paid friend or pp fees. ingredients state mix of nat camellia oil and liquid paraffin. BTW they carry REN Wax. Quote
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