watsonmil

Dear Piers, I would say that for laymen, ... the level or quadrant accomplish the same task, and the two words are often inter-changeable. The gunner's level enabled the elevation of a gun to be measured. Like the gunner's quadrant, a plumb bob provides a reading against a scale. However, whereas the gunner's quadrant is inserted into the mouth of the gun - exposing its user to enemy fire - the level is set up more safely at the breech end of the barrel. ... Ron Watson

Dear Piers, The brass instrument is called a Gunner's Level. They were a common scientific gunnery ( artillery ) instrument of 17th and early 18th century Europe. A Japanese version of this instrument would be considered very rare. Tell me is their a maker's mark ? Since I cannot see any kanji perhaps it is European in manufacture and simply imported by the Japanese ?? An excellent find and quite valuable, ... as I've sold only a very few artillery instruments from the 17th, 18th centuries and for a very good dollar. ... Ron Watson

Chris, No, ... if you read the whole thread you would see that we discounted that option, ... otherwise he could just insert a rod and easily drive the ball or whatever else is in the barrel out from muzzle to breach. I think it is unlikely anything but perhaps rust or wadding remains in the barrel if as he says the powder has been removed. ... Ron Watson

Dear Sebastien, Now that Japanese gunner got things ass backwards if you were able to remove the powder but the bullet is still in place :D . Stranger things have happened though. If you have a WORM ( screw ) on the end of your cleaning rod, ... use some pressure as you screw it into the ball ( if that's what it is ), ... and you should be able to pull it out. If you can't, ... just leave it in the barrel, ... it can do no harm if the powder has been removed as you're never going to fire the gun anyway. ... Ron Watson

Dear Sebastien, Yes, ... the screw will enter the soft lead ball ( with a little pressure as you're turning and once threaded 5 or 6 turns will usually come out of the barrel with a pull on the cleaning rod. If it slips off, ... simply screw the jag back in and give it 3 or 4 extra turns to get more bite, then try again. Most likely the only thing in your barrel is a bit of wadding and perhaps a little powder behind that as quite often the ball will have fallen out eons ago. Often children shove paper down gun barrels and this may be all that is in the barrel. I have had that experience more than once. Looking at the newly posted pictures, ... I must say the repair to your wood stock is like nothing I have seen before. The stock appears to be much thicker at and just behind the brass breach barrel ring. I have NEVER seen this before. Perhaps if possible you could post photograhs of this area from different angles with the barrel removed. Do the two halves of the stock come apart, or is there some way that the gunsmith fastened the two halves together ?? A MOST unusual feature ! The lock too is a high quality lock called I believe a Geki Lock not often seen. I am becoming more impressed with your Tanegashima the more I see ! What do you think Piers, ... have you seen so many variables/anonamalies on one gun before ? ... Ron Watson

Dear Sebastien, At 1.5 cm your gun's Japanese caliber is 5 monme, .... a respectable caliber for hunting or warfare. The fact the ramrod stops about 1 cm above the flashpan hole tells me there is at least some residue powder and/or wadding in the barrel. The same cleaning rod that I described to you often comes ( or can be ordered with ) a screw jag which is simply a wood screw fastened base first into the cleaning rod so that the cleaning rod can be turned while in the barrel ... screwing the jag ( screw ) into whatever is still present. Once screwed into the lead ball, or more likely wadding and powder the cleaning rod is pulled back down the barrel to remove the object. It may take several tries to pull all the material out. It is often helpful to first have put a small amount ( enough to wet the entire inside of the barrel with a light machine oil like 3 in 1 oil ) or sewing machine oil. This will lubricate and make easier withdrawl of whatever remains in the barrel. Let me know how you make out. ... Ron Watson PS. You can also take the entire gun to a resident gunsmith and have him check this out and carry out the work for you.

Dear Sebastien, Being several time zones away from Europe and Asia, ... I often find it hard to reply to a post while it is still relevant. Anyways, ... YES the registration numbers are frequently found on the barrels of Tanegashima ( teppo ). It was a requirement of the Meiji authorities to record all existing firearms and who owned them, ... many owners however either did not know about the regulations, ... or simply ignored them as they do and should do today ( my opinion ). Regarding the stock, ... being that it is in two seperate parts DEFINITELY means it has been modified or replaced. Tanegashima stocks are always one piece efforts. ... Ron Watson PS. Sebastien, ... I think it wise if you leave the breech plug ( bizen ) alone. If it is badly rusted in place as many are it will have practically fused to the barrel and trying to remove it may damage the plug. The inside of the barrel can still be cleaned by running an oily rag up and down it's inside using a standard rifle cleaning rod. You can even get cleaning rods which have removable heads such as brass brushes which will help in cleaning out the rust and dirt.

Dear Sebastien, Piers has a sharp eye, ... yes the ramrod is present. I would suggest it is broken however as it definitely should reach out to the end of the barrel when seated in it's holding channel unless the ramrod hole has been drilled abnormally deep ( which would be quite unusual ). Piers also noted the unusual stock repair or modification on the left side of the stock behind the brass barrel band. I would concur with him that this is most likely an older barrel that has been restocked and / or repaired at some point in time ... the stock that is. Still a very nice example and as you can see from Pier's and myself's opinions ... many Tanegashima are difficult to assign to a specific school as many have traits of two schools and not just one. ... Ron Watson

Dear Sebastien, Your gun appears to be a combination of two schools of gunsmithing, ... primarily the Sakai ( the lock stock and trigger ) and the Kunitomo. primarily the barrel and the mekugi ana covers ( brass cherry blossoms ). The numbers and letters you show on the side of the barrel are registration or stock type numbers. You are right for some reason the signature is obliterated by rust, and it would be nice if you could clean these up enough to be legible. The second hole on the right of the stock may have held two different purposes depending on the depth of the aperature. One ( and I believe the original purpose of these aperatures were for holding the butt end of the priming match ). Two ( and I believe some later smiths adapted this opening by not making them so deep to act as a ashtray for butting out the smouldering match upon completion of your shooting for the day ). Also it would appear that a decorative ring in the usual form of a Chrysanthemum flower is missing from around this opening as I can see the light ring on the stock indicating where this ornamentation was once in place. Your gun is missing it's ramrod, and this can be replaced with a piece of oak dowel of the correct diameter and stained with an oil stain to a dark colour. I would say your gun being that it has features of two schools and certain refinements that it is probably of the very late 18th century or more likely of the early 19th century. It is a nice looking example, and I particularily like the barrel inlay, ... not too fussy. May I ask what the caliber is in diameter ( cm or inches ) ? Also as so often happens with these old Tanegashima. they are still loaded. The way to check this is to insert a dowel or rod and measure the depth from the muzzle until the dowel or rod come to the bottom. Then remove the rod or dowel and compare with the top of the barrel to see where bottom lies on the barrel. In front of the touchhole by an inch or slightly less means it is still loaded, ... whereas if the mark goes slightly beyond the touchhole means its empty. Do not worry if it is loaded, simply get in touch with me for detailed instructions on how to remove the wadding, ball, wadding, and powder safely. watsonr@mts.net ... Ron Watson

Dear Piers, I often come across ( so I am told as intimidating ) in my speach, and in my writing ( I just ran into a 260 pound RCMPolice Officer this morning , ... he was coming out of the Post Office as I was going in, ... He looked down at me chest stuck out and said Good morning. I in turn ignored him. He promptly said excuse me ... I just said Good Morning to you, ... to which I replied : if you were a Police Officer I would have acknowledged you, but since you people are no longer Policemen but damn Government Tax Collectors I really feel no obligation to acknowledge your type. He said is that so, ... and I said well just look at yourself you're at least 260 pounds and couldn't catch a criminal for the life of you, ... but you have no problem writing out traffic ticket violations now do you ?? I then left him standing as I turned and walked away. I am really a pussy cat at heart and did not mean to be so sharp in my critisism. Perhaps you will turn out to be correct with your identification and I will come out of this thread with mud on my face. Take the contraption outside where there is an actual branch to hang it off, and with the normal light breeze found on any day just try and get a steady rest ( gun platform ) from the artifact, .... you will then see why I have reservations. ... Ron Watson

Dear Piers, I have a couple of reservations, .... Being that we all agree the string is too light to safely hang the rifle support ( if that is what it is ), ... why not check the hole in the contraption to see if it once held a more sturdy THICKER string ? Secondly, ... please find me a woodblock print or drawing of the contraption in use, .... that would CONVINCE me. Even a man using a branch or the crook in a tree to support and steady his gun still uses both hands to hold the weapon ( I have used this method many times while hunting to get off a more accurate shot ), ... but although it looks feasible, ... in practice it would be a most unstable gun platform ( rest ). One would be much better off simply leaning the gun againt a tree to help steady his aim, ... rather than climb some bloody tree to " hang a blow in the wind Christmas Tree style decoration " to act as a gun rest. Then again with the Japanese ... anything is possible ! ... Ron Watson

Dear Jan, I don't like to throw a fly into the ointment, ... but I just noticed the wear on Hankwai's cheeks is as even as the wear on his nose and the wear on his tummy is equal to the wear on his out-stretched fist. Although pleasing to look at, ... this would not be normal wear from use if you understand. Perhaps it was done to highlight these areas by the carver, ... or perhaps by someone wanting to give the appearance of long use and age. I note the same unusual patination / wear on the Coin netsuke. I am going to hedge my bets on their authenticity at this point. With the value of fine netsuke being in the hundreds if not thousands of dollars, ... they are very often copied from old netsuke by more modern carvers and passed off as being genuinely old. Lets see what Piers has to say. They are one way or the other beautifully carved. PLEASE do not take my above comments as definitive, ... as I am far from an expert on this subject. I own a few netsuke, perhaps 8 or 9, ... and out of these I can only say that 6 are definitely genuine OLD netsuke. ... Ron Watson

Dear Jan, Although I am not an expert on Netsuke, ... I would think your Netsuke although most likely genuine are a good deal later than 18th Century. The himotoshi on older netsuke usually have one hole much larger than it's companion. This was so that the cord knot could be hidden away from view and from pertruding from the netsuke. I rather like them both, but having said that ... Piers is much more of an authority on netsuke than I. What say you Piers ?? Jan, ... I must say that it is refreshing to see so many of our members developing an interest in Japanese Art forms other than the Nihonto and Kodogu so often discussed ( and rightly so as this is primarily a Nihonto Forum ), ... but my God the quality leaves MUCH to be desired ! Lately I have seen Armour, Prints, Netsuke, Tanegashima, Yanone, and even Compasses pictured and discussed . ... Ron Watson

Dear Jan, Would you mind posting photograph's of the HIMOTOSHI ( openings for the sagemono cords ) for the two netsuke. Thanks. ... Ron Watson

Dear Eric, I have no idea where or how you come up with the GEMS that you keep surprising us with, ... but you do and what is especially great is that you share ! Thank you for a most interesting read. ... Ron Watson

Dear Thomas, I once learned the most dangerous time for a screw up is when you have the Press, or a Television Crew on a job site. In 1986 here on the Prairies of southern Manitoba we were in the midst of a severe drought. Cattle were going without water, and every Backhoe and Dragline in the province was booked solid. I being a professional Blaster ( explosives ) built 31 dugouts in 6 weeks each 70 feet long, 30 feet wide and 8 feet deep. In total I built about 75 dugouts ( water resvoirs ) that summer. By building them where there had been existing springs, ... I had excellent success in hitting water. The CBC ( National Canadian Television ) begged me to do a piece on this unusual way of building water resvoirs, ... and given the chance for free advertising I agreed. You guessed it, ... The demonstration dugout was in semi-sandy soil, .... and although not a complete flop ( sand does not blast well at all ), .... the resulting dugout was far from my usual 70 x 30 x 8 foot dugout. Fortunately for me, ... the Television Director realizing the blast looked perfect, edited out the result and showed instead one of my more successful dugouts as the result of my work. A most kind and understanding man. As he said, ... I have heard nothing but praise of your work, and how your expertise has saved many hundreds of cattle not to mention farmers from losing their herds. There is no way I could justify showing anything but your usual excellent results. Just in case someone wants to know, ... a dugout that size requires 1000 pounds of explosives detonated instantly. It is very impressive. ... Ron Watson

Dear Jan, To slightly correct Ian's description .. " That gun is a very late one made after the American's had introduced percussion cap ignition. " This gun was not MADE after the introduction of the percussion cap, ... rather it is a CONVERSION of an existing matchlock to the percussion system. A few guns were made by the Japanese using the percussion system, ... but this example is not one of them. ... Ron Watson

Dear Piers, Impressive, ... you realize that a round ball of 20 monme = 1157 grains ( grains is the normal method of weighing projectiles of musket / rifle caliber ). That is equivalent to 2.4 ounces of projectile. A projectile of 100 monme weighs in at 375 grams = 13.23 ounces .. ( a small cannon ). Given these weights of ball and calculating out the ft/lb recoil, ... either of these two guns the 20 monme or especially the 100 monme gun will be completely impossible to hang onto if loaded with anything other than a blank ( powder and wad only ). The Samurai out of necessity would have had to have something for the gun to land in once it left the shooters hands upon firing ( for the 20 monme gun ) and some type of seperate mounting ( carriage ) other than hand held for the 100 monme gun. ... Ron Watson

Dear Piers, Now that's what's called a " hangfire ". There's got to be at least a full second between the ignition of the priming powder and the detonation of the main charge. A good deal of what appears to be severe recoil is the shooter's muscles relaxing just a split second before detonation . Just as well he had the gun tied to his left hand ! ... Ron Watson

Dear Barry, All three guns are Kunitomo work. It would be of interest to have photographs of the signatures. I am rather surprised that you found three guns of virtually identical proportions and style together. Wonder what the story is behind that ! Thank you for the photographs. ... Ron Watson

Dear All, I should have mentioned this before, ... but better late than never. In order to preserve your Hagoita, ... it is best to wrap the entire paddle with a sheet of clear plastic wrap ( suran wrap ) folding the overlap to the back side of the paddle. This will protect the paddle from dust, smoke and other air-borne pollutants. I also placed a tiny ring screw about 1 inch from the top corner or the paddles and this allows you to hang the paddles from tiny nails for a more pleasing display. ... Ron Watson

Dear Piers, Appears to be over-all temper to my eyes, ... but the polish is not the best to see minute detail. Still a very nice yanone. How many more treasures do you have upstairs ? ... Ron Watson

Dear Ken, One of the major dealers in Hagoita is : The Minamikawa Doll Factory in Tokyo. I did a Google search and came up with this link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Kabuki-Japa ... 2565fd84f9 If this link does not work just go to eBay and search item number : 160624903417 . Be sure to scroll down the entire page to see the workers actually making Hagoita. These people seem to be among the premier makers of modern Hagoita. In the off season they use eBay to reach out to the entire world for sales. It seems to be the quality, and how elaborate the work is that gives modern Hagoita their value. ... Ron Watson

Dear Ken, Glad you found some answers, .... what might surprise you is that brand new Hagoita can vary in price from a few dollars to over $1000.00 depending on the quality ! ... Ron Watson

Dear Adam, Virtually all tanegashima ramrods are one piece wood. I have two examples that are steel ( both are pistols ). ... Ron Watson