Alex A

Im in the middle of reading a good little book by Stephen Turnbull, ironically, theres a few snippets of information on the odachi/nodachi/seodachi (back carried tachi). He states that many of the surviving examples where made for presentation, rather than for battle. Apparently they where a great threat to a man on horseback on the Sengoku battlefield, with the horses legs being top of the agenda. Some where not sharpened all the way down the blade, hence they make good clubs too. Id be interested if there was such a book, if anyone knows? Alex.

As long as the 70# samples check out ok and it does not feel on the flimsy side, then im sure it will be ok. If not, i presume folk will not grumble if you need to order 80# instead, only $3 per set after all. Its about geting a balance right, quite a thickish book at 500 pages (250 leaves approx), you dont want it to be flimsy, but on the other hand, you dont want it to end up like a doomsday book. Alex.

3 words, patina, lack, of. Alex.

Having had more time to think about this today (hectic yesterday), and with quality being in mind, I am tempted to say that the insides should now be printed on a slightly thicker stock. I am now suggesting 115 gram, I believe it may be described as 80# in the US, this would need to be verified with the printers. Although 104 gram (70#) is adequate, I think a slightly thicker sheet will prevent show through ( text visable through other side of sheet). All this obviously will need to be discussed with the printers, presuming there is no sample sheets. I should also point out that some printers will use a 104 gram stock as an alternative to 115 gram, nothing wrong with that as long as it feels about the same in hand. All down to paper density. Sorry to complicate things a little. To sum up, the insides should be printed on the thickest and best quality stock possible for that particular type and size/thickness of book. Something may have to give somewhere, depending on price. Err on the side of caution, is whats in mind. Alex.

Sounds good. Alex.

Just had to make a quick edit, forgot it was a 500 pages. Ok, 70# Matt is fine....104 gram....bang on :D Alex.

100 gram silk/matt (same thing, coated stock) is what you need the insides on.. Im unsure what 60# 70# is? is this a US standard?, I would need the weights, as mentioned, to let you know, you will need samples, if possible. They should be able to give you a weight/grammage.... gram/square metre.... Eg 100 grams is 100 gram per square metre Alex.

David, obviously a generalization :D Alex.

Looks like the nakago as quite a lot took off it. I stand to be corrected, but im thinking a much shortened shinshinto tachi maybe?. Alex.

Chris, no papers=money in pocket ...... money in pocket=buy books for knowledge Knowledge=no need for papers......... now that's cool Alex.

Great photo Henk, and interesting, never heard that one before.. Ps, now i get why the Japanese used their swords in WW2. Alex.

Chris, you already have an attribution , why spend any money on papers. Alex.

Theres no shortcut to an aged looking patina unless you really know what your doing. Theres plenty of home DIYs on the internet, includes, salty water, lemon juice, eggs (as mentioned), liver of sulphur (toxic/hazerdous), even urine??. I tried all of these (apart from urine ) to see if i could patinate new copper seppa. I used new shiny copper coins in the experiment. The results where, salty water= patchy discolour lemon juice= nothing eggs= patchy discolour urine=take a wild guess Liver of sulphur= the only one that really did anything, but looked false compared to genuine aged copper coins. As pointed out, it is also an unstable patina. I did actually leave one in the garden on the window sill, its turned black, so i suppose it has natural patina, but not the patina i was looking for. I thought i would note all this down, incase someone else in the future is an "hands on" kind of guy, LOL. Alex.

I read about this as a method for patinating copper. As brass is made partly from copper, I presume it may be affected, but wouldn't expect too much of a result. Theres a lot on the internet on this, but in reality, it doesnt work too well. Looks fine as it is, I would just leave it. Alex.

Now theres a business idea for them, theyl be on the phone to Hollywood :D Alex.

I have come to a conclusion. Dont buy one. Alex.

If they can already make good copies, then why not make good copies?. Why even sell from China?. I suppose the simple answer is, because they sell as they are, just takes the right person to come along.... Alex.

Not "discover", just "perfect". They will also be looking for info on how to go about perfecting their sell, not just the swords. If I can spot ways they can improve their game, im sure they can. Alex.

Yep, where better to check out your rating? Alex.

If they read this, they are sure getting some top tips on how to perfect their work Alex.

Cheers Mariusz, much appreciated. A big thanks to Mariusz and everyone else who helped with information on Tensho koshirae, much appreciated. Alex.

By no choice of your own, sometimes you have to mix the old with the new. I spent a year mithering the hell out of everyone (and i mean everyone) about an early yamagane fuchi for a tensho refit. Its a real pain in the ass sourcing period parts, kind of makes you feel like a bit of a nuisance !. On a good note, i only needed a tsuba/fuchi. In the end i threw in the towel and decided to go with most folks advice and have a new fuchi made to match the patina of the muromachi tsuba. In the end, im more than happy with the fuchi, great to have something made by true artisan and it gives the koshirae a bit of a personal touch that was speaking of. As pointed out in the past, it is just an assembly, so no harm making it a bit of your own. I suppose that is why i have now become a bit of a fan of traditionally made modern parts. I may have a tsuba made in the future, but no rush. In the end, would i ever do another refit?, NO lol, fun and educational, but too much unnecessary stress, lifes hard enough :D.

Enjoy life, i have one friend who as just spent £4000 on a push iron, another £3000 on a fishing pole!, so in reality, where all daft as brushes. :D Ps, new koshirae doesnt need to cost the world and even better, no fit issues. Alex.

Curtis, the only way to build a koshirae that you will be happy with is to build a koshirae that means something to you. Otherwise, as others will, you will just look at it as an assembly and probably a bit of a waste of money. Expensive, but the best way to avoid this is to have new tsuba, fuchi kashira etc made to your own spec, with a theme and meaning of your own. For this, the blade would obviously need to warrant the expense. If your just looking for a correct period koshirae then i would just keep the spending down to a minimum. In either case you will not see a return on your spending, but at least with the new made, you will have some added personal value. Alex.

Jeremy, at $6 to $8k you need to be certain of all the details, no excuse for poor photography in that price range. Poor photography always sets off alarm bells . Is there any info from the seller regarding this armour? i assume not as you are seeking advice here. I know nothing of armour, but knowing nothing, i could not buy based on the photos and lack of info from the seller. Best,Alex.