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Everything posted by watsonmil

  1. Dear All, Again, ... the Inatomi sighting ( shooting ) manual makes no sense. Putting an " elevator " ( elevation adjustment ) on the front sight ( muzzle sight ) instead of the rear sight makes absolutely no sense. What would happen using this type of arrangement would be at best to hit the ground in front of the shooter as in order to make a straight line with eye from the rear sight to front " elevator " sight one would be depressing the barrel to a point a few feet in front of the shooter. A short lesson in " sights " may be of some help here as we have members with no experience with firearms or shooting. The first firearms had NO sights. One simply pointed the barrel in the correct direction and hoped for the best using only the human EYE and the TARGET as a sighting arrangement. The next level of technology we see a FRONT sight only on firearms such as on the Brown Bess Muskets where the EYE to the FRONT sight to the TARGET is the sighting arrangement. Very few smooth bore muskets had rear sights ( some exceptions ) as the accuracy of the smooth bore did not facilitate proper 4 point sighting ( eye, rear sight, front sight, target ). The smooth bore musket was simply too inaccurate. At longer distances than say over 100 yards one simply aimed above the target in hopes of a hit. Then along came rifled barrels and suddenly the ability due to improved accuracy of actually hitting what you aimed at ... and technology caught up with the addition of a REAR sight. Now we have ( very important ) ... EYE to REAR sight to FRONT sight to TARGET arrangement. NOTE, NOTE this is as much as the human eye can handle in the way of actually employing ANY SIGHTS. In point of fact the human eye can only handle TWO out of the THREE and still focus. Actually what happens is the human eye automatically adjusts to the REAR sight when you place the FRONT sight in the correct line with the TARGET. At this point in firing the gun, one ignores the rear sight ( as at best it is just a blurr ) and concentrates on placing the FRONT sight on the TARGET. This is why for IRON SIGHTS COMPETITIVE TARGET SHOOTING we use an aperture rear sight as the eye automatically centers the rear sight and we only concentrate on the front sight and the target. Now looking at the Japanese Matchlock ( always smoothbore ) we usually always see a rear sight ( uncommon on western muskets of the same period ). On a few ( somewhat rare ) we find a middle sight and sometimes ( very rare ) two middle sights plus a front sight. All that one can think of for a reason for the extra middle sight ( or two ) is the penchant the Japanese have for improving upon pre-existing design. In this case the improvement is NOT an improvement at all as the middle sights are completely useless ( if someone wants to challenge me on this ... please do as I was not only a PROVINCIAL Shooting Champion but a Shooting Instructor and will happily provide newspaper clippings to the members to prove it ) ... just ask . Again I emphasise the Inatomi shooting manual is an interesting historical document but many of the illustrations have nothing to do with proper shooting instruction. In particular the last example Eric posted is pure rubbish and NO instructor Japanese or otherwise would have ever employed an " elevator " sight as a front sight. In order to fully appreciate ( not necessarily to collect ), ... but fully appreciate and UNDERSTAND the Japanese Matchlock or any type of firearm for that matter one must have some background in actual shooting ... without such background silly and incorrect information will inevitably be posted and people will not learn. Yes, ... the Japanese manual shows an " elevator " front sight, ... but how many will assume this must have been thus employed ?? ... if we do not explain why it is incorrect. ... Ron Watson
  2. Dear Sir, I stand corrected, ... you are obviously correct. Thank you for this as I had been assured it was Tobiguch, but I can plainly see this was incorrect. It is a Tekagai. ... Ron Watson
  3. Dear All, Upon examining the example given in the Inatomi gun manual, ... I am at a complete loss as to what the instructor is trying to convey. The use of middle sights on ANY firearm are useless. Since he shows the barrel elevated from the horizontal he appears to be teaching ... " distance shooting ", ... but how exactly ?? The use of " elevator " sights are still used today in long range target shooting to make allowance for bullet trajectory ( the problem of gravitational pull, air resistance and loss of bullet velocity necessitating their use ). I have been studying the instructor's drawing and quite frankly cannot understand what he is trying to convey. My grandson and I have taken a couple of photographs to illustrate for those not familiar with firearms or sighting or shooting at long distances the correct application of the " elevator " sight. Today we call this sight " elevation adjustment " as opposed to side to side adjustment which is known as " windage " adjustment. In the first photograph ( of my Grandson ), ... you can see the " elevator " sight, ... and how by using a combination of the FRONT sight and the ELEVATOR sight .. the eye by looking thru the aperture of the " elevator " sight and putting the front sight on the target give the barrel an upward angle even though the eye TO " elevator " sight TO front sight remain a straight line To the target. Note however the upward angle of the barrel. When the bullet leaves the barrel it carries to a height much higher than the target until it hits a maximum height where gravity, air resistance and loss of speed cause it to start on a downward curve towards the target. This is called the bullet's trajectory ( path ). The adjustment of the aperture's height on the " elevator " sight depends upon the distance to a given target. The further away, the higher up the " elevator " sight the aperture must be set. The distance to the target is unless previously known must be estimated in this type of shooting. Now then if he were shooting at a target where trajectory does not play such a big part ( as in short distance ), ... he would basically be using sights that allow both his line of sight and the barrel to be more or less nice and horizontal instead of needing the " elevator " sight. At any rate shooting with a smooth bore firearm as the Matchlock ... you may well adjust for elevation, but as far as windage goes forget it. You may hit something beyond 100 yards but you will in all probability never hit an aimed at target. Much of the Inatomi gun manual makes little or no sense. It is however a historic and interesting document. ... Ron Watson
  4. Dear Barry, It is indeed a Japanese fireman's tool called a Tobiguchi ... used for pulling down the light wooden and paper constructed homes of Edo Japan. See: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/23643966765127133/ Another picture attached :
  5. Dear Piers, Yes, ... I noticed after you had posted the photograph on July 9th. I compared the photograph with the one in the magazine of 1950 at that time and noted the remarkable similarities but I did not see a translation by you of the signatures found on the gun, and admittedly I was too lazy to try my hand at translating. I also could not make out on Sawata's photograph the detail of the engraving. Also note in Sawata's photograph a portion of the backstrap is missing, and also the slight difference in the way the two trigger guards match up as well as the one trigger appears slightly thicker in Sawata's photograph than in the example illustrated by Mr. Kimbrough ( early touch ups on the Sawata photograph ?? ). The photographs being taken at slightly different angles may account for these minor discrepancies. You are almost certainly correct in saying they are the same pistol. I had promised to post a photograph of the pistol pictured on the magazine cover of 1950 and therefore followed thru. I should have however pointed out to the members that the pistol in Sawata's book and the pistol in the magazine article may well be one and the same ... my oversight. ... Ron Watson
  6. Dear Stephen et al, As promised here is a photograph of a Japanese made copy of a Western percussion revolver ... probably a Colt. The following is a quotation of Robert E. Kimbrough the author of the article in the Sept. 1950 issue of the magazine : The Gun Collector " The revolver is engraved with a typical Japanese design - the cherry blossom. Straps and trigger guard are of solid silver and heavier than factory straps. The maker's name, Kokei Nakasawa, appears on the underside of the barrel ( as it would on a matchlock ) and the engraver's name, Jujimen Kamata, on the frame under the trigger guard. One of the gun's most unusual features is its finish - a bright heat blue. " " Colt's design is closely followed except that the octagon barrel and the rammer lever are both tapered giving a more graceful appearance. It is difficult to believe that the precision fitting of parts could be obtained by anything other than machine cutting but evidently such was the case. " The article carries on to describe how this cannot be anything other than a Japanese made copy. In fact although not dealing specifically with this particular firearm, ... practically all of this issue's 24 pages ( 21 pages ) are devoted to Antique Japanese firearms. ... Ron Watson
  7. Dear Stephen, Of course I will, ... as soon as I get access to a decent camera. ... Ron
  8. Dear Ed, Email me your postal address, ... and I shall photocopy the entire article and mail it down to you. Best to contact me by private email at : watsonr@mts.net ... Ron
  9. Dear Ed, Although at first glance I can see influences of COLT primarily ( both the Colt Dragoon of 1848 - 1850 but also the Colt model 1860 ), ... but the also the Manhattan Gun Co. ( model Manhattan Navy of 1859 ), can also not be ruled out as an influence. Anyway, ... I know for sure it is not an American special order, ... but rather a Japanese copy of an American revolver influenced primarily by the Japanese maker having seen in all probability an American Colt revolver or also possible having seen and examined one of the Belgian copies of Colt such as the Belgian colt Brevete. There is a magnificent example ( although of a somewhat different style ( octagon verses round barrel ) in the September 1950 issue of The Gun Collector magazine. Contrary to Brian's statement that this work would have required some " machining " in other words lathe cutting and/or milling the author of the 1950 article states NO, ... all appears at least to have been hand filed and fitted. Also stated, ( Robert E. Kimbrough ) that the workmanship far surpasses the American built revolvers of the same period. At any rate, ... a wonderful and really rare one of a kind handgun showing not only the ability of the Japanese Gun smith but also the hunger the Japanese were experiencing for Western goods of all nature. I notice what appears to be a " Mon " on the cylinder ) and perhaps someone could identify this for us. My grandson will be out this coming weekend and I shall get him to photograph the picture of the OTHER revolver and I will post at that time. ... Ron Watson
  10. Dear Justin, You take my using your Japanese word ... " hibasami " ... as being a criticism of you personally. I thought I had explained that I was not picking on you in particular a few posts back. In the eyes of some ... it is I who is wrong, and should be not only encouraging the use of Japanese terminology but should set an example. As time goes on ( and God willing in my case ) ... we can introduce such words which are totally ( for the most part ) obscure or unintelligible to even the Nihonto enthusiasts. Many of these words are however unnecessary and have little or nothing to do with the study of the Japanese Matchlock. You say : " I will leave the education and dissection of future posts on Japanese Matchlocks to much more articulate individuals. " That young man is your prerogative. It would be sad if you were not to participate as I feel you have shown an aptitude towards learning the subject and I have so stated previously. I am tired of apologizing to individuals whom feel slighted by my comments however and I am not doing so now. Whether you or I participate in this subject is totally at our own discretion. No one takes any more " flak " than myself on occasion but as of yet I have not retreated into the observer only attitude. ... Ron Watson
  11. Dear Eric, No, ... once again read my post carefully. What I said was the use of OBSCURE Japanese terminology can not only cause difficulties in what is being discussed but can be can be totally unnecessary. The fact YOU may derive pleasure in deciphering the smallest detail in Japanese does not mean everybody does. There are certain words as Piers pointed out that do not lend themselves to anything other than a Japanese word. I would hasten to add that few Japanese associate the word Tanegashima with Matchlocks as Tanegashima is a place name rather than a firearm TECHNICALLY, ... yet use the word among Japanese Matchlock collectors and they instantly associate Japanese Matchlock, ... whereas the Japanese generally do not. Perhaps when I am dead and gone, the collecting of the Japanese Matchlocks will have advanced to the point where you guys will be thought of as Elitist and will use strictly Japanese words for all parts. As I said previously if you want boring and a feeling of being left out ... spend a social evening with a group of Physicians. This I can tolerate but Specialist Physicians even regular GP's find obnoxious and elitist. ... Ron Watson
  12. Dear Piers, It may have come across as being a personal criticism of Justin ( not my intension ) as I believe if anyone is progressing rapidly in their understanding and appreciation of the Japanese Matchlock it would be Justin. I was only using Justin's Japanese word " hibasami " as an example. My concern is that we are all able to understand what is being discussed without either speaking or reading fluent Japanese and/or owning a copy of Shigeo Sugawa's book ... The Japanese Matchlock - A Story Of The Tanegashima - . I envy you on your capabilities in the Japanese language and I applaud Justin in his pursuit of learning Japanese. I wish I had the aptitude but sadly I do not, nor do the majority of the readers have this aptitude. I often find when reading for instance some ( certainly not all ) of the Nihonto postings that the average collector feels the study of the Japanese sword is an " Elitist pursuit " when they should not, and are afraid of being chastised and consequently do not post. That to me is sad, as this is above all a learning and sharing forum. ... Ron Watson
  13. Dear Geraint, No, ... that is not quite correct, the spelling is Tanegashima ... NOT ... Tangashima. . ... Ron Watson
  14. Dear All, I do not know quite how to approach this subject ... Japanese nomenclature verses English nomenclature when discussing the Japanese Matchlock. I am beginning to see a trend which I am not sure is good or bad. Some here will agree with me and some will not, ... that is what discussion/debate is all about. I use the word Tanegashima whenever I speak of the Japanese Matchlock, ... but another Japanese term is Teppo, or Hinawaju. You will NOT see me use the word Jita when speaking of the lock plate however, ... nor will you hear me use the word Yuojintetsu when speaking of the trigger guard. Justin used a Japanese word in a previous post " Hibasami " meaning in English Serpentine. Again you will not hear me use the word unless forced to. If the point is to show off how much one knows more than his fellow enthusiast by use of Japanese words, ... then you can count me out along with many other potential hopeful students. It JUST IS NOT NECESSARY to substitute the Japanese term for the English term in most cases. We must use judgement and a degree of caution in my opinion. Don't worry, ... I believe I know the difference between a butt protector and a shiba-hikigane ( the same item ) only English / Japanese but I doubt most of you do nor many Japanese for that matter. In a recent article I described making a replacement " HIBUTA " ... pan cover for a Japanese matchlock. If I had not added the words PAN COVER to my article, how many would have by-passed the article because we are not all fluent in Japanese. Hell even the average Japanese would not have a clue what a hibuta is ! The point I am trying ( not sure if I'm being successful ) to make is that the over use of obscure Japanese words is a detriment to developing an interest in the Japanese Matchlock. It is on a whole a lot like the nomenclature in use by the Nihonto ( sword ) fans outdoing one another with their superior intelligence and having a SPECIAL Japanese word for every nuance ... no matter how insignificant. If you've ever spent a social evening with a group of Physicians ( God forbid ), you will get an idea of what I am speaking of. On top of everything else, ... the Japanese tend to have at least 3 words for almost everything which does not help. Your thoughts and criticisms are welcome. ... Ron Watson
  15. Dear Geraint, I am not sure I'd want to own ... " one of those ". It would be my guess that this is an amateurish " put together " pistol. 1. We have a western style flat screw holding the serpentine ( hibasami ) which obviously goes right thru the stock and threads into a brass chrysanthemum plate ( za-gane ). If the gun is genuine this would mean the Japanese gunsmiths were using fine threaded screws which they were not prior to the Meiji era. 2. The barrel appears to be much older ( badly pitted all around ) than the stock ( which is also of unusual taper and shape ). The hole at the Bizen ( breach plug ) is from corrosion caused by the acids in the black powder residue eating thru the iron barrel. 3. The barrel has no ama-ooi ( barrel protector ) ... nor does it ever appear to have had one on THIS PISTOL ... again too difficult for an amateur gun maker ? 4. The pan itself has no cavity ( hollow ) to hold the priming powder ?? Indication that the pan may have been cut off horizontally at some point ?? I just do not know, ... but not normal. 5. If you look closely at the breach of the barrel .... I am almost positive ( in fact I am positive ) ... that the barrel has at sometime been cut ( shortened ) ... and about 1/2 inch of barrel ( breach section ) has been added to the barrel. Notice how the flats on the two sections of barrel do not quite line up and in addition the difference in colour between the two sections of barrel. 6. The barrel has no fewer than two holes drilled into it to hold the barrel to the stock. Normally we should see a small half moon shaped tit on the bottom side of the barrel for the pin ( mekugi ) which is the pin hole used for securing the barrel to the stock. Instead here we see a hole drilled thru the barrel proper to act as an ana ( unheard of ). In addition if you notice we also have a hole drilled directly upwards into the barrel to obviously accommodate yet another screw for which there is another brass chrysanthemum plate on the bottom of the stock ... again unheard of. 7. The hole ( ana ) on the bottom of the stock and its accompanying pin ( mekugi ) are going to block any insertion of the necessary ramrod ( karuka ) to a few inches ... far shorter than that necessary for loading the gun. 8. The thumb extension on the serpentine sorry hibasami ( a further little thread to follow on the over-use of Japanese nomenclature ) when discussing Tanegashima ... is simply a post matchlock era ( generally ) ... of a European designed lever for opening the breach of cartridge guns. In short I would have to agree with the proprietor of Seryudo Co. Ltd. .... it is a rare pistol ( probably one of a kind ) ... which I would not care to own nor would I recommend to any of you. ... Ron Watson
  16. Dear Jan, Refer to the links Brian provided. I have been around guns since I was a child and daily ever since. What you have in spite of wishful thinking is simply : 1. a toy, 2. a fantasy piece purporting to be a powder tester, 3. an unusual netsuke. My bet is it is an out and out fake as I am sure I have seen two of these now which obviously came from the same maker and were being sold on Japanese Auction Sites. As a matter of fact the most recent was only a few days ago. I note it is now gone ... is this it ? It would take me all of a half hour to make one, ... another 15 minutes to load it with black powder and fire it 2-3 times ... set it aside for a few weeks and voila the necessary " it has been used " appearance. Sorry if I sound too blunt and hard, ... but it is the truth. ... Ron Watson
  17. Dear Brian, I don't see Piers volunteering ( not that I necessarily blame him ). He already has enough on his plate and I or someone are always asking for something. As far as writing a letter goes, ... when I wrote to The NBTHK back in 1994 regarding the Nobuyoshi sword I own, ... I wrote in English, a standard business format, with a standard closing. The answer I received was also a standard western style business letter but signed with a seal. When I wrote the Tokyo National Museum about a Tanegashima, .... I received a reply in Japanese ( which I had an old friend translate ... now deceased ), ... but never the less a friendly letter answering all my queries. Now the fact that I sent an email to the dealer ( Seiyudo Co. Ltd. ) without mentioning the bloody weather, ... but did ask specifics ( respectfully ) about the pistol's mechanism and closing with a Thank you, but not wishing him prosperity and good health ... is not bowing deep enough, ... I can only assume he knows nothing about the pistol and very little about how to deal with a potential foreign customer. What I received was a " brush off " obviously understood in any country. If someone else on the NMB wish to email an enquiry about the pistol's mechanism ... please do. Here is the email address : touken@seiyudo.com I shall be surprised if the proprietor is in the least interested in responding, ... but you never know. ... Ron Watson PS. Malcolm ... thank you for the link. The International language of business is English and if the proprietor were interested in making a sale or answering an inquiry, I'm sure he would have overlooked my lack of Japanese etiquette. The pistol I believe is offered as " bait " to stimulate interest in looking about his site. Personally I do not believe he even owns the pistol in question.
  18. Dear All, As per Brian's suggestion, I contacted Seiyudo Co. Ltd. twice by e-mail and I believe I explained myself fairly well, ... I used both English and Google translated Japanese text to inquire about the automatic feature on this pistol. The following is what I received in reply not once but twice. Unless Piers or some other member either living in Japan or visiting Japan can view and examine the pistol in hand, ... sadly we will have come to a dead end. Dear,Ron Watson Very thank you. This gun is an article not for sale. Yours sincerely Seiyudo Co., Ltd Tadashi Shono ********************************************************************* -- 刀剣・古美術 誠友堂 ... Ron Watson
  19. Dear Gary, For beginners, ... it is an oldie but goodie : The Samurai Sword by John M. Yumoto. I also recommend : Fact and Fundamentals of Japanese Swords as translated by Paul Martin. Another : The Japanese Sword by Kanzan Sato. I should imagine that Grey Doffin will probably have most in stock. His site address : http://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com ... Ron Watson
  20. Dear Brian, Indeed, ... although there is not the same amount of interest as Nihonto or Kodogu, ... many many books have been translated from Japanese into English, German, French on these two subjects ... and when one considers that in the world, Samurai Swords are not exactly at the top of everyone's list of Best Sellers list perhaps it is a feasible idea. ... Ron Watson
  21. You can if you prefer ( I do ) silver solder rather than lead solder your pan cover together. The best silver solder to use is : SSF-6 Here is a link to a tutorial on SILVER SOLDERING USING SSF-6 : ... Ron Watson
  22. The last article I wrote on restoration was on making the hollow pin for the matchlock pan cover. Another piece that is sometimes missing from a Tanegashima is the brass Pan Cover ( Hibuta ). Since all Tanegashima were hand made, ... no two Hibuta are ever the same, ... therefore if yours is missing ... you will have to either make it or have someone make one for you. It is not terribly difficult if you know a couple of the tricks, .... so lets have a go. You will need the following tools : 1. A metal wire saw ... ( you can get away with a hack saw and grinding wheel accompanied by filing ). 2. A small selection of files, ... a sparkplug file, a small fine fine file, and a small triangular file. 3. Apiece of light cardboard ( such as found on cereal boxes ). 4. A sharp pencil. 5. A propane torch or oxy-acetylene torch ( ONLY the oxy-acetylene if you are going to use silver solder instead of regular solder ). 6. A center punch. 7. An electric drill and 7/64 bit ( measure the diameter of the Pan Tray hole for the right bit size but usually 7/64 inch or 4 mm ). 8. a pair of scissors. 9. Some fine emery paper. 10. A small C-clamp. You will need the following material : 1. Some 7/64 inch ( 4 mm ) ... bloody metric ... sheet brass . 2. A thicker small piece of brass about 1/2 inch x 1/2 inch by oh say : I inch long ( 5 mm x 5 mm x 25 mm ). 3. Regular solder or I prefer SSF-6 Silver solder. 4. a small bolt size 7/64 or 4 mm diameter about 1/1/4 to 1 1/2 inches long ( 35 mm to 40 mm ) and 3 nuts to fit. Before we start, ... very rarely can Hibuta be found which were cut out from a single block of brass. This can be done with patience but you will need a solid piece of brass anywhere from 5/8 inch ( 16 mm ) thick to 9/16 inch ( 14.25 mm ) thick and 2 1/2 inches long ( 63.5 mm ) by 3/4 inches wide ( 19 mm ). I have not tried this method, but should I make another I will give it a try. For now lets stick with the more common method of manufacture. Well lets give it a go .... Cut two pieces of your cardboard ... each piece 1 5/8 inch x 1 1/4 inches ( 4 cm x 3 cm ). Now take one piece of cardboard and slide it on top of the pan tray and inset it up against the barrel being sure to go under the slit in the Ama-ooi ( brass barrel protector ). Now with the cardboard in place turn the gun upside down and trace around the pan tray with your pencil. NOTE when you look at your tracing about 1/8 inch or 4 mm will not have crossed the end of your cardboard which is the part protected by the ama-ooi. Take a straight edge ( ruler ) and draw a dotted line from one edge of your tracing across to the other side as in my photo of the tracing. Set this piece of cardboard aside, and repeat with the other piece of cardboard making a tracing of the bottom of the pan tray this time. You now have an exact pattern for top and bottom of the pan cover we're making. NOW, ... this is important ... add using your pencil about 1/8 inch ( 4 - 5 mm ) free hand to your cardboard patterns ... SEE PHOTO. This extra is to attach your pan lever. Using your scissors cut out the patterns ( being sure NOT to cut along the dotted line on the top cardboard pattern ). Now lay your cardboard pattern on your sheet brass using one of the straight edges for your pattern straight side. Trace with your pencil around the pattern onto the brass. Now note one of your tracings is a tiny bit bigger ( 1/8 inch or 4 mm ) deeper if you've followed directions ! Using your wire saw cut out your brass top and bottom from the brass sheet. NOTE : If using a hacksaw cut angles to just touch your pattern line from different angles, ... then using your flat files remove the excess metal ... don't go over the line drawn on your sheet brass ! Now's the moment of truth, ... taking your brass pan bottom ... try it and see how close you've come to your Tanegashima's pan tray. Pretty damn close ... YES ! Using a long leaded pencil or even a correct fitting nail ( to the pan tray hole ) mark your brass tray cover bottom and then center punch ready for drilling the aperture ( hole ). You can actually at this point drill your hole if you want since any fine filing will now be on the outside edge of your brass. Taking your top pan cover brass ... file evenly and flatly along your DOTTED line until you make this section of your pan cover just nicely slide under the ama-ooi ( brass barrel protector ) up against the gun barrel ( make sure you file the correct side ) Once it has, ... mark for drilling the pin hole as previously described for the bottom part of your pan cover. Be exact this is no time to get careless ! Drill your hole. Now, ... we are going to make the small ( usually triangular ) pan cover opening lever. With the pan cover pieces in place on the pan tray, ... use your small " C " clamp to hold them nice and snug ( I like to use a small piece of writing paper between the brass covers and the steel pan tray to allow just for the slightest of space ... ( slack ). Now mark and then file your thicker piece of brass ( see item list # 2 ) until it just nicely fits between the two pan cover brass pieces ( top and bottom ). Once this fits, ... file a slight angle so that when in place the piece of brass sits on about a 10 -15 degree angle outward ( see photographs to understand ) Trace with a pencil the outline top and bottom on the lever brass where it should be once we remove these pieces from the pan tray. Removing the " C ' clamp, ... remove the pieces. Now cut off the excess brass on what is going to become your pan cover lever, leaving about 3/4 inch ( 18- 20 mm ) . Any further filing to shape can wait until after soldering. Reassemble your pan cover using your " C " clamp to hold the pan cover " lever " in place. NOW here comes the TRICK ... using the little bolt insert it part way thru the top pan cover brass and then .... between the two halves screw on TWO nuts allowing enough of the bolt to exit the bottom of your pan cover brass to add the 3rd nut ... ( see photo to understand ) Now gently snug up the bottom nut. You want to now using what it left of the end of your pan cover to fit it to the end of the pan tray up to the bolt ( RE-READ this last sentence until you understand ). Adjust the one nut on the inside and snug up the bottom nut until you have a nice tight ( not pinching tight ) ... but tight fit to the pan tray. Remove your pan cover and solder the pan cover top and bottom to the brass pan lever arm. Allow too cool on its own. You now have a nice snug fitting pan cover. Having left the bolt IN PLACE, ... you can now file the pan cover LEVER into the desired length and shape ( I prefer triangular as pictured and besides its easier than getting too fancy ). Now remove the bolt and nuts and try your pan cover on your gun. Place in the hollow pin ( we made in a previous article ) and adjust the outside by carefully filing so as not to mark the steel pan tray. The pan cover should just barely extend over the edges of your pan tray. You may also have to file the inside to remove any excess metal or solder from your pan lever. Carefully note where things do not close properly and gently file until the pan cover fits like a glove. It should be snug, ... but open with and close with thumb pressure. Finish up by slightly rounding the outside edges of the pan cover using fine emery cloth. Do not round the sharp edges of your pan lever ... these look better to me sharp. Patinate to the correct colour using previously described methods in other threads and there you're finished and you did it yourself ! It only sounds difficult ... once you get started common sense will prevail and where my instructions sound complicated ... all will become more logical. ... Ron Watson
  23. Dear Jan, I know for a fact you have some very fine Tanegashima. Why not post some pictures here with a description of what you know about each. I also failed to mention your collection of accessories. ... Ron Watson
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