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John C

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Everything posted by John C

  1. As noted by Chris, there are different sizes depending on which side you are outfitting (tang side or blade side of the tsuba). Here is a good illustration of how they fit together. John C.
  2. Dan: I too am cataloging my meager collections (yatate, ojime, and maekanagu) - and for the same reasons, I suppose. I also have what some would consider a low-end collection. But I'm doing the whole thing with photos, write-ups, history, etc. I figure there must be some information about the every day person who used this stuff and not just museum quality pieces found in most books. The premise is that any budget can have fun collecting these items if we make it interesting enough. John C.
  3. So far, I've had no problems with non-sword items (books, kanna blades, netsuke, yatate) shipped from Japan since tariffs began. The dealers have a shipping choice that includes tariffs, which is what I usually choose - though it is more expensive, it hasn't gotten hung up anywhere. John C.
  4. With those two attachment points, it looks a bit like a maekanagu (clasp for a tabako-ire). John C.
  5. Steve: I believe the first name is Yamata (Yamada). Try getting the last name in this orientation. John C.
  6. Randy: To answer your question, yes. There are many companies currently (Hanwei for example) that make forged blades with actual hamon. It would be easy for someone to put one of these blades into gunto mounts. And these are legit reproduction companies. There are also companies making purposeful fakes. See some of the really good type 95 fakes in the Type 95 fake thread in Related Subjects. https://www.by-the-sword.com/p-4698-hanwei-shinto-katana-by-paul-chen.aspx? John C.
  7. Tyler: I believe both of these questions were answered in your other post. Moriyama-san translated the smith as Kanetsugu and Bruce-san mentioned the large seki stamp indicates it is NOT traditionally made. This means the sword is definitely WW2 and that it is probably made using "puddled steel" with power equipment, and oil quenched, though it may be partially hand forged. John C.
  8. Randy: The 09 stamp is more likely to be a manufacturing number from the Chinese factory or simply there to deceive. Family swords brought to WW2 were not generally serialized. John C.
  9. Ouch. Through the fingers, tsuka, then into the nakago. Unless that is some sort of test cut for a different blade. John C.
  10. The details/quality of this silver tusba don't seem to warrant the use of precious metals to me. I'm probably missing something. Opinions? https://www.ebay.com/itm/126480417057? John C.
  11. John C

    Won an auction

    Yves: Bottom line is a very nice legit helmet. As I haven't started collecting katchu yet, I have a question. Is there any relationship between the family mon and Nobuie? I was thinking that a samurai would "buy locally" and was wondering if the location of the clan somehow relates to the area where Nobuie worked. John C.
  12. Agreed. I think someone had it out of the scabbard when they tripped and fell against a grinder - multiple times. John C.
  13. Canvas cover with ink stamp on a type 94/98. Pink curling ribbon probably not original. https://www.ebay.com/itm/187827346096? John C.
  14. Galo: The problem with valuations is that it is completely subject for anything other than the really big names. Condition, rarity, historical significance, provenance all play a part. The obvious thing to do would be to research that particular smith auction prices (Ebay MIGHT have some but you need to look at Completed auctions and not for sale items). If you can't find anything that way, look for information about the smith in reference material and see how he was rated. This would give you an idea of importance (i.e., value). Barring that, something is actually worth what someone is willing to pay for it. That's one reason website auctions carry such high prices. If the sword means something to you, keep it and enjoy it. Maybe even have it polished. If it doesn't, then list it with a high reserve and see what kind of offers you get. John C.
  15. Just a general note. Some smiths changed their style frequently, which makes it hard to compare. For example, the "Kane" in the pic below are all from the same smith: Nakata Kanehide - 1938 (top left), 1944 (bottom left), 1945 (top right), and 1972 (bottom right). They are different from each other, however they all contain the elements of the "proper" kanji. John C.
  16. I think the wood insert is definitely a 2 piece construction. It's just a lot easier to make that way. This seems to have seams that are offset, which is what I would expect. John C.
  17. @Bruce Pennington A Masayasu with what looks like a ko stamp on the nakago (I'll probably get corrected on that so please take it with a grain of salt). https://www.ebay.com/itm/357998375327? John C.
  18. Just quoting the item description. John C.
  19. I found this pic for sale on ebay. Not a big deal, however the sword is an interesting configuration. Thanks and credit to Chris (vajo) for identifying the various parts. We often discuss whether or not a particular arrangement of mounts and blade was war-time or post-war. Assuming this pic is indeed period, the sword is a mixture of 1) unlacqured RS ito wrap, 2) type 98 saya, and 3) NCO leather tassel. Maybe he wanted to look more stylish than he could afford? John C.
  20. Shaun: I saw one recently that had fake concentric lines. What gave it away was how perfectly spaced they were. That and the overall quality. John C.
  21. Also, the stamp on sword #2 is the Seki Cutlery inspection stamp. The smith is Kane (something). You'll have to wait on the translation for that. The stamp usually indicates the sword is not traditionally made (i.e., tamahagane steel; water quenched). John C.
  22. Gary: I believe sword #3 is Asano Kanezane. Here is some info on him from Sesko: John C.
  23. Yes. It was a bit hard to tell. I was looking at the attached sarute barrel and, what appeared to me at least, to be an open tsuba. But I'm probably wrong so I withdraw the question. John C.
  24. Looks like the inspector stamp was on the blade side opposite the serial number, with the Tokyo and date stamps on the guard, through around 13,000. Then all the stamps moved to the guard. Of course, this is based on a very limited sample size and may not be completely accurate. John C.
  25. Also a type 94. Is there a connection between the 94's and this sarute? Both just used early on, I suspect. John C.
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