jeremy

I'm trying to see what part of the blade you're talking about but unable to see it myself . Would a blade get Tokubetsu Hozon with a flaw like that?

Thanks guys

Hey guys I bought a sword from a reputable dealer in Japan on 28th June. Any idea how long it will take until its ready to be sent ? What has your experiences been ? Cheers Jeremy

I actually asked sumie kashima at usagiya this question. She said she believes my sword is high shinogi with those measurements. Just to be clear what I'm referring to here. Measurement A is 5.5mm and measurement B is 6.9mm

0.39-0.45 inch sori? That's pretty shallow for a cutting blade?

Hey guys Is there a "rule" so to speak on how much difference there has to be between the kasane and shinogikasane in order to be classified high and low shinogi? For example, if a blade has a kasane of 5.5mm at the kasane and 6.9mm at the shinogikasane would that be classified as high shinogi ? Jeremy

That's a big blade! How tall are you using a blade of that length, if you don't mind me asking ?

Thank you ! I remember reading that somewhere actually. Thanks for the reminder

Makes sense ! Thank you!

Thanks! The naked blade seemed tori zori to me but the mounted picture seemed like a koshi zori

Trying to figure out if this looks more like tori-zori or Koshi-sori ? Its a deep 3cm sori with a 83cm Nagasa.

https://www.ebay.com...emis&media=WHATS_APP Comes with a tsuba box and silk pouch .

I don't know how DHL accepts swords to begin with. I tried sending swords with DHL from Australia to USA a few times and was told DHL doesn't accept weapons/ sharp implements.

40 + 😫😫

I've had brand new shinsakuto with ware in the shinogi ji , only been polished one time. Ware can become worse after repeated polishing, it's pretty much you and your luck. But in the case of these two blades your presenting here, it shouldn't end up becoming fatal. Just an eyesore for some people.

Usually fatal means that the structural integrity has been compromised, ie unsuitable to he used as intended. But I don't see anything here that would severely compromise the integrity of the steel . If a ware is too close to the cutting edge , it could cause a crack or chip. I've used many blades over the decades with ware without problems. Jeremy

I saved myself about $500aud recently by buying a sword 3 weeks ago compared to if I bought it right now from Hataya sensei in Japan. So i think it is a good time to buy swords from Japan now.

You definitely could've done alot worse than this sword as your first. I know I did . In regards to kitae-ware / tate-ware , they're usually not a problem in regards to structural integrity as long as they're not located too close to the edge of the blade. Alot of the blades I've cut with have had small openings here and there , mostly in the shinogi-ji. It's more common in older koto blades as they have generally seen few more polishes than newer swords hence the propensity for these kind of kizu. Regards Jeremy

That's fair enough , when I see gendaito my mind thinks late 1800s to 1940s era blades made in Japan. I must say the blades themselves look very impressive for non Japanese made, I bet a few people have been fooled into believing that they're buying a Japanese made sword with these pics and descriptions

A bit misleading calling it a gendaito though. He does have genuine nihonto on his eBay however for people who are looking for cheaper nihonto.

Are these blades really nihonto? There's something odd about the nakago on these blades ?

Looking for a plain mokko style tsuba for katana size, main point being seppa-dai thickness to be max 2-3mm and weight around 110 -130 grams. Price $300 or less

Thanks jimi-san. I'm looking for something similar closer to about 120 grams unfortunately. Jeremy

Weight and thickness of seppa-dai please ?

Thanks for this. It was a very eye opening read. As someone who's been into his "historical " research and writings , I can now put that behind me !