Jump to content

Kolekt-To

Members
  • Posts

    203
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

92 Good

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    Phoenix, Arizona
  • Interests
    World War II Japanese swords (Gendaito, Showato), World War II history and militaria, Vintage firearms collecting.

Profile Fields

  • Name
    Geoff H.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Be cautious in buying from Show22 - not the best reputation. Read the posts on this board. Just trying to save you from making potentially costly mistakes. And, the tsuba you mentioned is probably over-priced.
  2. But the blade doesn't look good. The description even states that it is pitted. I would save funds for a better example. Also, that auction house is going to most likely add their "Buyer's Premium", plus you will have tax and shipping to pay - all will drive up the cost and possibly add another $300-$500 AUD to the price you will pay for the sword. Think about it.
  3. Apparently, Obi-tori refers to the actual hanger ring(s) attached to the Ashi/Haikan - a component of the Ashi/Haikan. Thus, the officer's belt clip would attach itself to the Ashi/Haikan by way of the Obi-tori (ring).
  4. Thank you Chris and Francois! After reviewing the posts and photos, I believe I can better discern Oil-quenched blades from Water-quenched. In one of the posts, the question was asked about Acid-etched hamons. So, I am interested in being able to spot those, as well as artificial polished-on hamons. What are some thoughts on these types of hamons, and how can we differentiate them from water-quenched and oil-quenched? Are there 4 different types of Gunto hamons: Water-quenched, Oil-quenched, Acid-etched, and Polished?
  5. What are some tell-tale signs that a Gunto has been oil-quenched versus one that has been water-quenched? How can we be confident of one versus the other when considering a blade? Information, thoughts, and photos are appreciated!
  6. Removing the tsuka (and tsuba) of a Type 95 versus removing the tsuka (and tsuba) from other types of gunto (97's, 98's, and RS/Type 3's) is not the same. The general rule is to not remove the tsukas from Type 95's (as you have stated, as well as many others here, including Bruce) because 1. Nothing to see of any value on the nakago, and 2. May cause the tsuka to loosen and to not fit as snugly. Regarding the other types of gunto, don't be afraid to remove tsukas as needed. The nakago may provide important information as to the age of the blade, the swordsmith, the date in which the sword was made, etc. And, you may need to remove the tsuka to add seppas, replace other fittings, facilitate repair work/restoration projects, etc. And, as to what the crazy Monkey does with his swords, that's anyone's guess. He attacks just about any edged weapon he gets his hands on.
  7. I believe those are Cherry Blossoms, not Chrysanthemums, you're referring to.
  8. Good point Durrell! However, not all Type 97's were made of stainless steel. In fact, most of my Kai Guntos (mostly arsenal blades) do not pass the magnet test - they are not stainless steel. I've heard that many Kai Guntos were not composed of stainless steel, so perhaps those would hold up better when actually used in combat.
  9. Thanks Stephen! A few months ago, I removed a sarute from one of my RS/Type 3's because I thought that it might be fake or mistakenly placed on this type of sword. Now I know better (may re-install the sarute). The sarute is similar to the one pictured in your photo. From the discussion here, it appears that tassels were commonly found on RS/Type 3's, and that they were threaded through the hole on the kabutogane or through a plain metal ring sarute.
  10. Type 97's were carried by officers of the Special Naval Landing Forces and these forces were involved in plenty of combat. Therefore, Kai Guntos were combat-tested in many land actions, as well.
  11. My thoughts exactly. I have four Type 95's, currently - one 1st version (brass tsuba) in great shape, two 2nd versions (first variation - top latch style) - one in excellent condition, the other is average, and one 3rd version "Pineapple sword" in good condition. I sold a 1st version model to a fellow NMB member a couple months ago. I am debating whether or not to sell one of my 2nd version models - the one that's in average condition. The blade and fittings are solid, but tsuka has much of the paint worn off. I would use the proceeds toward the purchase of another Type 97 Kai Gunto, since that is the type I'm enjoying most, currently.
  12. This Type 95 NCO sword, albeit in great shape and with matching numbers, sold on eBay today for $2716.00 USD. Is this a new high for the sale of Type 95's? I am astonished at how high the bidding went for this one!
  13. I would like some opinions on this pair of apparently matched Type 97 seppas. Are they of the higher quality type? How have they aged? Do they resemble their original color/patina, or has much of this worn away?
×
×
  • Create New...