My new Type 95 NCO sword identification

[maximus35]

Hello, I just recently purchased a type 95 NCO sword from a military memorabilia shop here in Florida. From my research, it appears to be a aluminum handle pattern 2, 1937-1938. The sheath and blade match, and to me it appears to be in decent condition. I would love to learn more about it and I appreciate any help, thank you in advance! 

[John C]

@Scogg

Sam can give you more details, however it's a nice early example of a type 95. Now you just need to source a leather tassel to complete it.

 

John C.

[Scogg]

Thanks John, and welcome to the forum Max! Could we possibly see the other side of the hilt? 

 

What you have is a really nice example of an early Aluminum hilt Type 95 military sword. Yours would have been made between July 1938 and June 1939.

 

It was manufactured near Tokyo by Suya Shoten, inspected by Tokyo first army arsenal inspectors; and these swords were under Kokura Army Arsenal administration.
 

(Suya is the harp logo on the ferrule, the middle is for the Tokyo first inspectors which is also on the blade, and the third concentric circular stamp is for Kokura army arsenal) 

 

The other side of the hilt should have the metal wrap pattern punctured by the securing screw. This is actually probably my favorite variation of this sword (Variation#2 from Suya), because it’s the first variation that I got myself, that started my obsession.  
 

In June 1939 the wrap pattern was adjusted to be symmetrical, so the mekugi would more easily go throught the samegawa diamonds and not the wrap pattern. (See my example below).
 

A relatively rare variation. My serial number range for the Suya variation#2 swords is between serial umbers 6756 and 12148; and it shares some of that range with Iijima and Gifu. 
 

Very nice sword, congrats! For more info, I have written a Type 95 paper that’s in the document section here on the forum. 

Best of luck, 

-Sam
 

 

[maximus35]

8 hours ago, Scogg said:

Thanks John, and welcome to the forum Max! Could we possibly see the other side of the hilt? 

 

What you have is a really nice example of an early Aluminum hilt Type 95 military sword. Yours would have been made between July 1938 and June 1939.

 

It was manufactured near Tokyo by Suya Shoten, inspected by Tokyo first army arsenal inspectors; and these swords were under Kokura Army Arsenal administration.
 

(Suya is the harp logo on the ferrule, the middle is for the Tokyo first inspectors which is also on the blade, and the third concentric circular stamp is for Kokura army arsenal) 

 

The other side of the hilt should have the metal wrap pattern punctured by the securing screw. This is actually probably my favorite variation of this sword (Variation#2 from Suya), because it’s the first variation that I got myself, that started my obsession.  
 

In June 1939 the wrap pattern was adjusted to be symmetrical, so the mekugi would more easily go throught the samegawa diamonds and not the wrap pattern. (See my example below).
 

A relatively rare variation. My serial number range for the Suya variation#2 swords is between serial umbers 6756 and 12148; and it shares some of that range with Iijima and Gifu. 
 

Very nice sword, congrats! For more info, I have written a Type 95 paper that’s in the document section here on the forum. 

Best of luck, 

-Sam
 

 

Thank you very much for going through the detailed explanation of my sword, that is much appreciated. I did find the document you made after I posted this which was really cool and put together. I uploaded pictures of the other side of the handle, it seems like it’s original. I was mainly posting to make sure the sword was legitimate as I bought it without much knowledge on these. Out the door the sword was $1300 usd roughly, so hopefully I didn’t overpay but I love it, it’s an amazing piece to me. 
So at this point, what is the sword missing? I have seen a leather tassel, is there anything else? Thanks!

[Scogg]

Happy to help. In my opinion you did not overpay. You paid what is essentially higher-end retail value for a NORMAL brass tsuba Type 95; but yours is especially rare with that punctured wrapping and low number; and there's really not good known price point on this variation yet. On top of that, yours is in remarkably good condition with what looks like all original paint and very little blade damage. Honestly, I probably would have paid that for this sword; and I think you did good 

Your sword is complete as far as the sword itself goes. A leather tassel would make it a better display; and if you really want to go all-out, you could attempt to find a belt and hanger, but those are exceptionally hard to find at good prices. 

Best of luck with it!
I may be a little biased, but I think its a great one.
-Sam

[maximus35]

21 minutes ago, Scogg said:

Happy to help. In my opinion you did not overpay. You paid what is essentially higher-end retail value for a NORMAL brass tsuba Type 95; but yours is especially rare with that punctured wrapping and low number; and there's really not good known price point on this variation yet. Ontop of that, yours is in ramarkably good condition with what looks like all orignal paint and very little blade damage. Honestly, I probably would have paid that for this sword; and I think you did good 

Your sword is complete as far as the sword itself goes. A leather tassel would make it a better display; and if you really want to go all-out, you could attempt to find a belt and hanger, but those are exceptionally hard to find at good prices. 

Best of luck with it!
I may be a little biased, but I think its a great one.
-Sam

Awesome, I’m glad to hear that. I plan to display it on a wall mount. What is the best way  to clean/preserve the blade? The store owner said real clove oil was good.

[Scogg]

20 hours ago, maximus35 said:

Awesome, I’m glad to hear that. I plan to display it on a wall mount. What is the best way  to clean/preserve the blade? The store owner said real clove oil was good.

These blades are a little more forgiving than other Japanese Swords, being machine made.

For my Type 95 swords, I just give the blade a wipe with a non abrasive cloth like a microfiber with 95%+ isopropyle alochol, followed by wiping it dry. I then apply a very thin (nearly impreceptible layer) of tsubaki oil; you want very little on the blade to avoid it beading/collecting and saturating the wooden liner inside the scabbard. If this is your first time oiling a sword, I would check on it the following day to see if oil is collecting or beading anywhere (which would mean theres a little too much), and give it another wipe to even it out / sop some up.

 

Choji oil works too (clove), and so does any pure, clear, and uncented mineral oil, or typwriter oil. I prefer tsubaki (camelia) because its both traditional, and uncented. I've heard of people using renwax too, but I don't have experience with that. 

I would not do anything to the hilt or scabbard, except maybe a light wipe or dusting with a dry non abrasive cloth. You could maybe, very gently, tap the scabbard mouth down ontop of a towel, and get any collected particulate out of there. 

The clove oil reminds me of the dentist; unfortunately for me.
Best of luck,
-Sam

Edited June 27 by Scogg
typos + scabbard advice + chogi oil update (see brians comment below)

[eternal_newbie]

15 minutes ago, Scogg said:

You could maybe, very gently, tap the scabbard mouth down ontop of a towel, and get any collected particulate out of there. 

 

To anyone else reading, this is a good idea when receiving any sword for the first time. Bits of dirt and wood shavings/splinters can and will get knocked free during transit.

[Brian]

And a reminder that pure clove oil (choji) is NOT good for blades.
Camelia is the right stuff or any light mineral oil like sewing machine oil. A few drops of clove oil are added to the mineral oils in Japan, but that just gives it that characteristic smell. Do not use pure clove oil.

[john42768]

Brian: Thank you as I had been told real Choji oil was the best choice to use. 

Best, John S.