John John

I have noticed on many Type 3 Shin Gunto swords what looks like some sort of lacquer or maybe wax impregnating the rap and into the skin covering the handel. has any one else notised this and if so what is the reson for it. My only though is it may be weather proofing.

Thanks Con, I will look into that. I believe many apprentices were helping as well.

A steeper bevelled edge removes less steel than following the original full bevel, and it removes chips and protects the edge for longer. You would need a strong magnifier to see the change in angle that I am referring to.

You make a good point, but a modern day blade of high quality is able to hold a sharper edge. The older blades may have originally had a steeper bevelled edge, and that edge was removed long ago and reformed more than once. Ancient blades become dull with time and use, so the blade becomes narrower every time a new edge is introduced, and that would be for the polisher at any given time to take the liberty and freedom of style to accomplish a desired edge. So if that were done today, it would be no more than a recurring procedure.

I may be off target with my thoughts on this, but the Japanese are not interested in any of the mass-produced blades of ww2. However, I am of the belief that a family blade is something of great respect and should only be in the hands of the opposing side if it was purchased or gifted by the family. There is such a thing as theft, and admiring a work of art on your wall that doesn't belong is a crime.

Restoration is critical when needed and can be done by an expert if employed. Many fine family blades have been restored, but more have been abused over the centuries by incompetent persons, hence destroying the great beauty that once was. I would never suggest or advise any restoration without consultation with an expert first.

Thanks Bruce, you are a great help. I have clicked follow now.

I was more so indicating the opposite meaning: do not over-sharpen if the blade is dull. But as you point out, it's not a job for the novice if the blade is of any value. Once again, it is a matter of opinion and a belief according to the experienced user of the cutting edge.

It's like a hot chisel with a cold chisel edge.

Well done, not something you would see every day.

Thanks Bruce, good info.

Just my opinion and open to different beliefs, the edge of a Katana is best not kept razor sharp. It is tradition to have the edge at the very end of the narrow bevel, but this will most likely cause the edge to fold or chip when using. A very slight second bevel is a good insurance against damage yet still holds a very sharp edge.

I may be behind the times a bit, but the WW2 swords do go for a lower price in Australia, as we had a fair bit of the action coming from New Guinea, such as souvenirs and US servicemen entering Australia from the north. The problem is that not many people are letting go at the moment, so it is a bit dry.

Looking to buy type 3 from 1944-45, it must be all original and in very fine condition. I am willing to pay up to $500 AU.

Looks like the tang has been sandblasted. Is that a bad thing to do?

Hi to all, I am new to the group, and my first post is getting some attention, but my problem is that I don't get any notifications when someone replies to my post.

Looks like the tip is in bad shape, as well as being fake.

Are the serial numbers only on the swords with the metal handles?

Thanks Conway, Is the Smith an sawdsmith or an Blacksmith making swords just for the war time.

. I got it from a woman that told me her late husbund picked it up at an oction. She mentioned 1945 and said it was from New Guinea.

I think mine has had a makeover, and it came with leather spacers as well as the steel ones. I think it says 1945 on the sheath. I have only seen a straight hamon on the type 3 apart from mine.

Thanks Bruce. I will take more photos tomorrow.