John C

Thank you for the replies. I wasn't sure if the name on the back was supposed to be the swordsmith or just the owner or agent. Essentially, I can disregard it, which may explain why there is so little information about the back side. Now the different dates make sense...thank you! John C.

Hello: In researching a recently acquired NBTHK origami, I have noticed a lack of information on what (or who) is contained on the back side. There is a ton of information about what is on the front, however scant information at best about the back. I believe I have translated the information correctly, however I do not know how it pertains to the sword. I believe the top section translates to Miura Makoto and the bottom section translates to Issued August 27th 2010. Is Miura Makoto a person? If so, how does he relate to the sword? The date of issue is different than what is hole-punched on the front side (May of 2010). What do different issue dates mean? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Regards, John C. (I have included the front side just for reference).

While I agree we should be careful in not "teaching" forgers what to look for, how then do we "teach" those new to the hobby what to avoid? In this particular case, I think the fraud was more about the misrepresentation by the seller than any detailed minutia of the sword itself. I suspect forgers have access to the same books and physical examples we do. Their ability to make a quality forgery then, is less about the information and more about the time, effort, and money needed for a quality forgery. Respectfully, John C.

With the fat belly and curved handle, it looks a bit like a stylized Chinese Dao. John C.

Yes. It's telling me it wants to be in my collection. In all seriousness, it looks as if the grain becomes more pronounced between the soft and hard metals depending on the light. For example, in the first picture on the left the grain is highlighted in the hard steel, whereas on the right it is highlighted in the mild steel. So I guess both are useful? John C.

@Bruce Pennington Bruce: Here is another hot stamp. Very difficult to read. But I think it may be a Masahide based on the shape. The sword has all manner of horimono and stylistic writing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114468413750?hash=item1aa6d96136:g:b6IAAOSwgn5fiv-E&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsIpIHHDoC4ujtsvG1TncUEK9cgWSpTH7KsTxUUZkonGR1rQuyjUeRFlfNuE28ZbVdq64eGSkYTvUAcSFUAz9bMg6nJj3lW6jGMaMer6rSkyRfcpcx06L1zKlujcx9ID6OgvEHz%2FqteItvp0oPXAWxzdrehH%2FjDbTpV8UdqN7%2FOpci2SNlNp9PdOvGphlBcrQLKimiaa3OYoQIOlMA%2BJnrvXgZK5MmUOx1wLPP6tg9Kyx|tkp%3ABk9SR_Tn0IicYQ John C.

It has been this way in California for some time. Amazon will not even ship incandescent bulbs to California. John C.

Steve: Some blades were both machine made and finished by hand (hence only partially forged). With the pressure to produce enough swords for the war effort, oil quenching is safer and results in fewer cracked blades. I suspect it is also a faster way to produce swords, however I would not know for sure. John C.

Steve: Tamahagane steel was issued sparingly to RJT smiths only. But the military wanted to differentiate traditionally made swords using tamahagane steel so they developed the star stamp. Some blades, however, are not fully traditionally made. For example, they may be hand forged yet oil quenched (which is safer for the blade). Early RJT blades may be traditionally made, yet not have the star stamp because the stamp program was implemented later. This is why studying the blade characteristics is far more important than the stamps. By the way, Vajo is a very respected member of this community and that respect is well deserved. John C.

Sounds like this guy is in the same league as those infamous Ebay sellers. Cases like this are often handled in small claims court where the burden of proof is much less. Whether criminal or civil court, it's not what you know to be true but rather what you can prove. Read up on the requirements for both criminal and civil action in your jurisdiction and decide if you have all of the elements for a case. Consult a local attorney for direct legal advice. US courts are notoriously lenient on con men. John C.

Okay. Thank you. I had the date pegged between June 1939 (handle change from copper to aluminum) and April 1941 (tsuba change from brass to steel). But the serial number in the 100k range didn't make sense. The 1943 date makes much more sense relative to the serial number range. I appreciate it. Quick edit: forgot to mention it also has matching serial number steel scabbard. John C.

Hello: I recently picked up a type 95 NCO. From the research I have done here and on Warrelics, it all looks correct for a pattern 2 (aluminum handle, brass tsuba [9mm], top latch, olive green steel scabbard). The top nut and bolt may be replacements. The marks are consistent with a pattern 2 (Tokyo 1st). The problem, if it is one, is the serial number range. I read that the 4th pattern serial number range ends around 132k. Mine is a pattern 2 at 139k. Were the different patterns made concurrently? Or is the serial number range as we know it somewhat flexible? I'm pretty sure the sword is legit, however the serial number is throwing me off a little bit. Regards, John C.

Jonathan: I have been burned as well, as I am sure many have. But I would caution against taking any kind of action without substantial evidence. Look at what the individual actually posts. Does he say it is from the 16th century or just that it is a Miura ( as in Bob Miura from Anywhere Idaho). In addition, any action would most likely be civil and not criminal (it's easier to prove). Lastly, you wouldn't want to get a suit filed against you for defamation of character if you can't prove your case. I'm not saying you shouldn't do any digging or evidence gathering, just that you are cautious in your approach. John C.

I think the wear on the patina of the tsuba looks a bit artificial given how pristine everything else is. I would lean toward nicely restored. John C.

Bruce: Could this be a variation of a late war emergency stamp? https://www.ebay.com/itm/295367094149?hash=item44c5402f85%3Ag%3AFYQAAOSwGvZjgUs0&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoE2vtf1G0e6%2BYCRzQdr5e1FQNMgrEltgGeArcOmW7ZbSnRt2aUALk6H6UmPegZB3KZaTm9VpsjRGd%2BJcf9Bp8DOQiviWJgLA%2BQsAEM5XixxkYgVQ0IXqhjD%2FMWgB%2FzNRiGrMzBRb4VmyPhekf5%2BHOvMmhmIHPntWMq4xGMKSBBBjYDx6lZyE7fjUZxHj0%2FF%2BtKq6H3IjPf5QJygz0VMdhI4%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8iMk-iYYQ&LH_ItemCondition=4|10 John C.

Wow! You guys are really good. I found the Nobu (shin) under 9 strokes, but could not find the others. Thank you very much! John C.

Hello: I have attempted to translate the mei on this military tsuba using the mei chart, however to no avail (I think the last kanji is yuki or kore). Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, John C.

Too bad about the flu. I was interested in the project. When making the decision, remember there is a practical reason for the shape indicated by Dave R.'s diagram. Generally, only the edge is hardened steel (hence the hamon). Any other shape would introduce mild, soft, core, or unhardened steel to the tip. That's assuming, of course, you did not want to re-harden and temper the blade. John C.

Noah: Just my humble opinion, however after reviewing the documents on the auction I think there are too many questions. Family histories tend to get embellished over time. As the others have said, the sword is not one a Japanese soldier would have normally carried. It's too crude and the fittings are after market (possibly newer). In addition, it seems like it might be a wakizashi. Again, that would be unusual. Also, in the picture of the purported owner of the sword, he is not wearing a sword! Interesting collection of objects, however if the sword is what interests you I would take the story with a grain of salt. John C.

Colin: Here is a link that does a great job explaining the differences with the type 95. https://www.warrelics.eu/forum/Japanese-militaria/ija-type-95-nco-sword-info-228172/ Of particular interest is the thickness of the tsuba; 11mm for the early types and 9mm later on. The type 95 switched to an iron tsuba in 1941. Keep in mind all of these things can be switched out at times. As for oil, choji oil is traditional. It is basically mineral oil (90 to 99 percent) with clove oil added. I would stick with mineral oil. But do not use products designed to "open" the pores of the steel, such as wd40. John C.

Nicholas: I am very new to this hobby, however I was given some advice when I posed that exact question. It was suggested that I not make, or have made, new koshirae for swords in shirasaya. The main reason was cost and, like you said, the potential for damage to the blade during fitting. If you find a set of koshirae you like, you can display it with the sword without it actually having to fit. But like I said, I'm new and others may have dissenting opinions. Regards, John C.

Thank you guys for the links. Regards, John

Steve: Thank you for the translation. The google app was able to translate the words but not the meaning. It makes a lot more sense now. I have seen other leaflets with the same stamp, cancellation date, and Nagoya reference. I was never sure what they were. Much appreciated, John C.

Hello folks: This is only vaguely related to swords, however some of you might find it interesting. This is a postcard that depicts the Doolittle raid (1942, I believe) on the Nagoya arsenal plant. The left side shows a soldier's uniform with sword while the right side shows a peasant? or farmer's? outfit. I can just make out a 93 on the farmer's outfit and another kanji I assume means killed or deceased (please correct me if I am wrong). The postmark is 1945. Just thought it was an interesting item to share. John C.

Hello: Probably an easy question, however can you all help me identify the style of this tsuba or point me to the right thread? I know I have seen tsuba with geometric cut outs on one of the threads before but I cannot remember which one. Thank you, John C.