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Thank you very much for all good information guys. Is there any one can show me real goto F/K in heavily used condition? Pretty much all certified goto's works I can find on the online looks to be all mint condition as well as pete's beautiful F/K here. It gets interesting to know who would make a gimei on those things. Thanks. Best Regards, Jason C.

That's Amazing. I can tell my fuchi nanako is different than original. Is that solid gold? foild gold ? Thanks. Jason C.

Thank you very much. Especially these photos tell more precise answer. I would say kanji s are correct but it didn't get to write with high confidence as much as real smiths could do since it's not a real. Thanks a lot for the photos and the book. That specific photos made it much more clear. Thanks. Jason C.

Hi. it's my first item ever had in relation to nihonto. I saw some examples of gimei but still cannot figure it out myself. Would this be Goto gimei? or I am a lucky guy? The job seems to be very well done. Thanks a lot. Jason C.

Thank you very much for all of your opinion guys. It was really good to learn both aspects and I think all of you guys are right. And sometimes a bitter advice is necessary to make a beginner in the right way. Nothing is personal here and I didn't take Dr. Fox's word as personal neither. However, I still have to say the solid gold habaki is very beautiful and I like the franco's habaki so much in my taste. It might not be on this blade, but I will have a similar one as Franco has one day for a future collection. I appreciate it everyone. Have a good weekend. Jason C.

Well. The sports tape was mentioned since the poster ask if he could have some other way. This tape on my shirasaya handle much make me happy because I can get it out from getting dirty and oily since my palms dropping too much sweat. It's not a consequence of being not knowing basic etiquette about the sword. I did not mean neither I would store as it. Any time he needs to touch the tsuka for some reason, he could have done this and then remove it perfectly after he use the sword. I am not sure how exactly call this type of tape but it's sticky but does not stick to hairs so it would be good try for especially doeskin wool and I am free from getting dirty on shirasaya handle now from my hands oils. I don't like to put any kinds of gloves on my hands because of excessive temperature buildings. ( I have basically higher temperature on hands and don't like to wear gloves more than 2 minutes.) Playing means to me is just anytime holding the tsuka for any reason. I should express as this way. Sorry. This tape wrapping is the solution I came up with. I am not taking any kind of advice as offensive so please always correct me though when I am wrong. I admit my solution could have enough reason to make someone mad. But Please don't think I am those of who careless rookie on the stuff. I am putting all my best to preserve this sword as of now. I know what I am dealing with. I will not even mentioning around those stupid questions anymore. Thanks. I would buy some Iai katana for the cuttings since I would start iaido soon. Jason C.

Well, I don't know if you would like this way or not, but I would wrap sports or medical tape which has self stick ability all around tightly when you like to play with the sword. I just recently got my first nihonto in shirasaya and I just did like that on the photo because I don't want the shirasaya tsuka get darken and dirtied eventually by every touching. Although it's ugly, you can protect doeskin being worn out every time you use. Thanks. Jason C.

Thanks a lot Mariusz. It helped me everything to know what the beginner must remind. Jason C

Wow that's true beauty. I will contact brian when I am ready to do it. Maximum 2-2.5k for one solid gold habaki should be ok but 3-4 k is the amount makes me re-think. Thanks a lot for showing your very nice habaki. Jason C

Hi. Denis. I will keep that word to the heart. I have maked sure it does not fall but accidents always happen when one think he or she makes sure something. I will never let it stand up like that for any reason. Thanks again. Jason C

Hi Franco. I agree with you. I imagine,,,, loosened habaki would take place in 99% when it's mishandled, misplaced, and the sword got mis-drawn-cut from any wrong angling, posturing and so on. Since the solid gold option is a bit pricey, I will go for solid silver since I am maniac for the sterling silver. lol. Thanks. Jason C

Thanks Hoanh always. I really got a good idea now what further process I would do from your all individualized detailed answers. I will not spend too much money on accessories. however, I am going to get some nice looking accessories. ( dragon theme like a man and either blue or tetsu silk ito). I will keep posting any progress here. I saw you live in nice Huntington beach and I might should go down there, meet you up, see and learn some your nice collections. Jason C

Thanks Brian. Your answer pretty much gives me a good amount of idea to know what's going on now. I guess you're right that the previous owner just has wanted to save money by not making neither new habaki, nor new shirasaya. The thick paper board works well right now and I would get a new habaki and shiriasaya for my first babe. That's good and correct guess Brian. I got this from an art furniture dealer who sometimes bring those estate stuffs from the local in San Diego. The dealer seems to selling it as consignment but that's the only thing I can say about. He seems to be knowledgeable for Japanese sword as well since he was mentioning such words " Hamon is nice..... has origami...... origami helped me a lot easier....." Well. he might have done some research about Japanese sword in order to sell it. In here, more the furniture dealer no nothing about nihonto, I would have better future chance for any unknown luck. Also, I personally prefer super heavy chopper feeling that this blade does not have but I still love my sword. Let's see what origami says.... Thanks Brian. Jason C

Thanks a lot. That's the most important thing I should know. I think no no microfiber because I remembered it make micro scratches on my german dagger. I will be careful and careful when I try it first time. Thanks. Jason C

Thanks a lot. I may able to provide my gold but I am not sure if the those habaki - shi wants to do that. I don't really see the point to go to that "high-price" for this. A solid gold habaki option should be on somehow above Tokuho level. I think that's is just right setting. Just imagine a beginner golfer does not bring high end expensive clubs and bags. 3~4k price just give me a clear idea. I would rather buy a nice wakizashi with that money. Thus, now I decided I will go this blade with either gold foil one or solid silver. Thanks. Jason C.

Grey. I will be super happy if this was a solid gold, I see some copper color on the inner surface so I guess it is just a gold plated habaki. but thanks for the suggestion. I will keep that in mind. Thanks. Jason C.

Hi guys. I just have no idea how that happened. I just got it as is now. That hozon paper shown it's papered heisei 24nen. So I could guess polishing took place not long ago. I was hoping very much the reason why the previous habaki is still there was because it's solid gold but it appeared as gold plated. The problem of the sword is I can't get more of information of this sword since the previous owner is in eternal peace. Shirasaya fits perfect on habaki but habaki rattles too much. How would I know the differences of weight was just purely on my feeling by comparing it with the one that has same nagasa, but much thicker mune. I am sure 30g difference on one's very tiny and delicate hand and arm could easily detect a bit of differences, which would eventually affect big difference on cutting or drawing the sword. But again, you could be right too Ken. If the polishing does not reduce that much of holding feeling, as your word, it would be much better for my nihonto and I hope it really didn't from the original condition. I don't know it's not before and after comparison. But one thing it clearly showing on the blade is it's been polished and habaki is substantially wider than blade itself. I just think I need to get a new habaki with new shirasaya. I want to ask Chris how much it would cost through his service. I will PM you Chris. Thanks. Jason C.

Thanks a lot Franco. Jason C.

Hello guys. I am sure few of members remember this sword I have posted in Nihonto section. I just got the sword yesterday with all papers. The blade is really beautiful without a single badness at this point. I really appreciate the beauty of the blade. I wasn't surprised too much when I found out the blade has been polished since it's an old blade and have too much good condition. This poor rookie raised many questions after he got a first nihonto. So please share how your thinking is. In overall, I am very happy with everything except 2 things; 1. Reduced heavier/ thinker blade feeling that was caused from polishing (didn't expect this lightened feeling and I remember how thick and heavy kind of feeling when I hold any blade that has not been polished.) 2. Thinker nakago than the blade thickness- 1mm extra space from each side of blade to both inner sides of habaki (Temporarily, I pushed some firm hard board paper into the space between the inner habaki and munemachi - hamachi area surfaces in order to avoid rattling in shirasaya.) It's my first nihonto, and it arise the consequence of a not-researching-well problem a number of Nihonto rookies could committed just like me. No pain No gain. So now I learn I make sure those next time when I purchase another Nihonto. But here are some more questions I arise as soon as I got the sword, and those subjective questions and answers were not really found through my poor web-based research skill because every sword restoring project is in different situation. The recognized fixes need to take place are two: Replacing rattling habaki and making new shirasaya. Since I have poor English skill, It would be clearer to ask you by bullet points. Please understand that. It would be really appreciated to hear your ideas. My questions are; 1. Who would be the best person to go and let them do a new habaki job and shirasaya together in Sothern California? I am considering either one of two types from solid gold or solid silver. 2. When you get nihonto, do you usually make it fully funtional in battle field, or just enjoying it with shirasaya only? I am looking to purchase all fittings and make full koshirae with this sword. How do you usually do when you get above Hozon Token. 3. If you have full battle koshirae mount, do you really cut tameshigiri with those of tokens which are above Hozon, or those are really for only looking and preservation with fine care as the literal meaning " HOZON TOKEN ? Maybe hell no no no and I guess the whole purpose of existence of NBTHK is to prevent nihonto from meaningless abuses.? 4. Even if an artisan make a new habaki that completely fits to the polished blade, would that even possible to remove it from the blade? How would that even be scientifically possible? I must able to put new habaki for new koshirae. 5. In general, could a single nihonto blade never be able to have perfect habaki fits because of substantial polishing work? 6. Is there any recommend - able solid gold habaki maker in the US based on your real experience your nihonto. ( Fred Lohmann and Michael Bell etc.) 7. When you get a nihonto in shirasaya, Do you look for all fitting accessories from similar period and same province that blade has forged and go for full koshirae? or Are you satisfy with just shirasaya -ed blade if you have no worries on the financial part? Thanks a lot for reading. Jason C.

Thank you guys. The has been instantly deleted my another new short- nihonto project.

Yea Hoanh. Only word I understand what Jussi said is chu saku. I am going to study now for that smith rating system. Thank you for saying that, which I want to hear from profound members . You read my mind. I haven't got the sword yet but I try to go down to meet the guy and get the sword on this weekend hopefully. Thanks. Jason C.

It looks like "Kawamura ketsutada". but I am not sure. I tried look this name on the list, but I couldn't find one. I feel like it's not mei, but the signature of owner?. Thank you very much. Jason C.

The hada does not appear as AYASUGI.

e. Suriage cut-mei Edo blades may not receive Tokubetsu Hozon paper. This gave me the end of future lucks for this blade. lol Jason C.

" d. Muromachi and Edo period mumei blades may not receive a Tokubetsu Hozon paper, as a rule. However, if a blade shows good workmanship, attributable to a famous smith, having ubu-nakago, and in good preservation, it may receive Tokubetsu Hozon paper." Doesn't it show a possibility to get Tokuho in the future for the blade? It seems to me there could be an exception although it's mumei and edo sword. I can't be sure if this blade shows a good workmanship, nor Tadayuki in Settsu is famous. But what I can be sure is it's in good preservation and having ubu-nakago. Am I right? And non of articles on the standard shows an absolute denial. Rather, it says "~~~~ may not receive~~". So nobody is really sure unless it's submitted to a Shinsa and having them to appraise the blade?. It's very confusing. Jason C.