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gudis

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  • Location:
    Sweden, oskarström
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    flyfishing, photography, steelblades mostly japanese made. Knife sharpening with waterstones.

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  1. It looks quite beefy, BUT as someone else said there are pits and if they are too deep there is no way to get rid of them. If you paid a lot for it, then its a shame to yourself to not see if there is anything to reveal under the rust. If it was cheap then it will not be so hard for you. The polish cost quite alot if you didnt know.
  2. Hmmm, here is a text that I have written some time ago... I will try to get this as understandable as possible. I did write this in swedish so I used google to translate this to english so I didn't have to rub my head too much Google are not so good everytime so I have tried to correct the most of the text. With many photos taken I think I have figured out how it will be rigged. First, preferably an all-black room so that there can be no reflections. The alternative is to use some dark fabric that suppresses reflections. I lay the object(blade) on a glass plate (use foampieces between the glass and the blade otherwise the glass will scratch the steel) that is lifted up from the dark fabric that I I put on the floor and up the sides of the "scene". Lighting - I have 4-8 spots that I highlight the item with. BUT you must be careful so that you illuminate from the sides (kissaki and nakago), otherwise the reflections come up to the camera's sensor. But then you need to also illuminate the center of the item which can be difficult because a Wakizashi or katana around 50-70 cm will require lighting from several directions. But be careful about trying to highlight the center of the item, then it is most likely to get the reflections into the camera. So essential is to illuminate with lights directed on the areas you want to highlight. I also have a fluorescent fixture that I highlight mune side with, be sure to cover the top surface of the tube so that you can not light rays enter the camera, you just want to highlight a small area here. There is a little trick to get mune side will be white, and it is to skip the tubelight and put something white that is as far as the sword away from mune. Then the reflections from the other lights will illuminate the mune from the white object. The camera - which I must say that it does not matter what you are using, only you can turn off the flash. Otherwise you will get big flashy blobs in the pictures where you get an over-exposure. Spot metering is one thing that makes the exposure easier. I am using an 8MP camera so it does not matter how many MP your camera has. Tripods are a must! Exposure - This must be determined by testing. IF you have spot metering so the camera measures on a much smaller area that is usually a small circle in the center of the viewfinder. Then you get a better exposure of the blade to shoot. Now if you take a picture and see that it is completely blank with no details, so try to underexpose the image. This is different for the different cameras, so here you get to read the manual how to do. (I know how it works on a Canon anyway.) BUT even if you have spot metering, you have to most likely underexpose anyway, but it becomes easier with spotmetering. Then you can talk about focus! Here I always focus manually! Otherwise you do not know really where the focus hits. Program Mode - MANUALLY (no green squares, or similar, you must manually set the exposure times and aperature.) Aperture value - aperture, I usually have around 16-22 or something like that because then the depth of field will be LARGER. Now if you still drive on we say 4 or similar then you get a picture where the focus is not so deep on. But in some cases may suffice 8-12 of aperture. Shutter speed - the shutter speed tends to be about 1 "(seconds) or up to 10" (seconds) So here I usually go about it ..... Everything is rigged, you have the blade on the glass with foam under it. Mune side facing you. Set the focus manually. Then I set the camera first in P (Program Auto) mode so that I can check what times the camera wants. Remember the times in the head and turn the camera to "M" (Manual). Put in the values in the camera that we have in the head. Pushing an image with a delay so that you can shoot a picture, but that it counts down the time before taking the picture. (SELF-TIMER) would avoid camera shake when the picture is taken. It is VERY easy to go get camera shake if you do not have a good tripod that can be trusted. If you want to reduce camera shake even more some cameras got a function that you can lock the mirror, not all cameras have this function. If the picture you took is good, you're happy ... BUT I can say that it took me around 30-50 shots before I felt I had got it pretty good .. I'm still not satisfied, I will have more light, in the middle of my blade the HAMON disappears a bit were there is no light left to shine up the hamon. The first value that I change if I do not like is the aperture value. Usually I set down to 16 right away. Take a picture again and see that this picture is almost entirely black except for some parts that is illuminated properly. If the picture is too dark, you must put more light in the picture and then we will change the shutter speed set it around one "(SECOND), take a new picture. Ahh, now maybe it will start to turn up. If it was not enough, you get change the shutter speed again, set it on three "seconds. So here you have to test things out, and when you hit it right but your background (the carpet in my pictures) is showing in the pictures. Then you change the depth of field with the aperture (16) that I had before to maybe 12th Take a new image and check, then this picture will be bright as hell, it becomes because you have changed the size of the hole(aperature) as the light coming in through the lens. To get the bright blade to be seen properly you have to change the shutter speed again to a faster "shutter speed" We are taking it from 3 "to 1" again and take the picture. Hopefully the picture will come back again. You can say like this, if you change shutterspeed 2 steps then you must change aperature 2 steps too.
  3. Hi and thanks Veli, I will try to write it down so that all of NMB members can read of how I do my photograhing of my small blades. But that will be another day I'm half way in to a nice red wine that will make my english worse than it is
  4. Hi to you all, Im in for the photograph thread !!
  5. Hello and thank you morita san. This is my first "real" deba and I'm very satisfied with this knife. I'm not a qualified Japanese polisher, I just sharpen knifes to people and do so using natural Japanese stones. They are rare and expensive, BUT they are best to sharpen with too. Ok the blade are not made of the one that inscribed the blade ? It is just a inscription that a shop or so has. It is a really nice knife, the edge is hard as a rock and the mune is soft and easy to work with. There is almost like a hamon just between the hard and soft steel. Thank you again Morita san.
  6. If I had that amount of money lying around I know what I should put them on !! It will be expensive to import it to sweden....... 25% in import tax !! $13000 in swedish kronor is around 84500kr x 1,25 in tax = 105625kr ehhhh, thats around 6 months of saving ALL of my monthly income !!
  7. Thanks alot !! Can that mean something about the style it is forged in ??
  8. Ok, thanks for the stamp Here is a photo of the whole knife.
  9. Just came across this nice blade.... That hada almost looks like damascus pattern. It pops out on this blade very much.. http://cgi.ebay.com/Japanese-Sword-Kata ... 4aaad2339b
  10. Hi to you all, For some weeks ago I found a nice Deba kitchen knife that was in a bad shape, and I bought it really cheap. Now when I have been polishing it I would like to know what the signature says on this thick deba. Thanks in advance /Niclas
  11. As previous poster, looks chinese
  12. Hi, I have taken some pictures too of blades and its not easy..... Mail me if you wants a little guide, I have to translate my writing to english from swedish that I posted on a swedish forum.
  13. In my thoughts it a lovely blade, but im not tying to guess anything about the blade.
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