Justin Grant

I would have it polished, even if the current value of the blade (after polish) is still less than the cost of polishing. I am not sure why people feel that if the blade is not an expensive piece to start with, a polish is not a good idea. I look at this like I do restoring cars. I can put $150,000 into an old car to restore it, but I may only get $75,000 to $100,00 for it at sale. This "loss" is not that uncommon in the business, and many restoration aficionados, feel the goal is to preserve the items for the next generation., I feel the same about the swords we have today. Lets face it, there are only so many of these things out there, if people tossed each sword that was not deemed worthy, at some point, the only swords out there will be the high ticket items, and people like me, and others wont have access to them, and all of the mid to low grade "starter" versions are gone. I see it as keeping a piece of history alive for the next generation. You mileage may vary depending on how you think.

Jean- Oops. Can't believe I did that.. Uploaded this post via my cellphone and either fat fingered it or the spell check on the phone did it... Tony- Thank you. I have never seen these before. Mine are not gold, they are brass or copper, they have some green oxidation on them starting to form. I was told these are modern, sometime in the last 40 years. Thanks again guys.

Can anyone identify this mekuni? New, Older (40's) or real old? Thank you! Justin

Lets see how I do! Thanks Mark. Justin

What is the currently held belief on the use of Seppa when it comes to "restoring" a nihonto. Should they be period correct, or just material correct? In my novice trek thru this world, I have seen plenty of period correct parts to purchase, but not Seppa. Why is this? Thanks Justin

The blade looks to have been buffed....

The blade photographs horribly ....

I took the tsuka off and took these photos of the nakago. The homon is faint, and straight as indicated earlier. What other pictures do we need? Mostly interested in knowing if this is a knock-off, stamped, etc.

Thanks Jean- Unfortunately, I found this site after I made my purchase. I will hope, actually, pray, this is not a knock-off, and that I dodged a bullet. However, I know I have an option to return it and start over. I will be sure to post pictures tonight! Jg

I understand what you are saying. While I do not have the "experience" most of you have, I knew enough to stay away from e-bay, and other "auction" sites. I spoke to the owner of this company several times, and he assured me this was not a Chinese knock-off before I purchased it, and if it was discovered to be a fake or modern production item, unlike his "expert" assured him, I can return it. He has been in business for many, many years with a retail store. If I was close, I would have had it in had before purchase, however, this was not an option, he is on the left coast, and I am in Indiana. I also know for what I paid, I am not going to get a national treasure, but a decent sword. It will be here around 3pm my time, and I will post pictures of it tonight. I will look at the nakago, and other indicators listed on the top of this site to rule out the obvious indicators of a fake. I do appreciate the kind words, and support, I don't want to be one of the masses by purchasing junk sold as history. Like all newbie in a hobby, I have a lot of learning to do. No disrespect intended, you all are way ahead of me, but I will learn! Justin Grant http://www.stardustracing.com http://www.nitroallstars.com

I purchased it from an antiques dealer in San Franciso. I have two weeks to return it if it is not an old handmade blade. He stated his "Sword Expert" validates all of the swords that come through his shop as handmade and machine made. His "Expert" said it was made in the 1700's and redone inn the current era in the current mounts. If this happens to be a cheap knock-off (Chinese Made) or a machine made blade he will return my money. I have this in e-mail and in conversation. I paid under $800 for it, so I don't expect a national treasure, but a decent conversation piece. As my knowledge grows, I can aquire better versions. What do I need to look at to validate that it is not a knock-off or machine made? I am more interested in the blade and the mounts are secondary. Holding my breath.... Justin

Hi Brian- I will get that tomorrow night, just checked the shipping, and it is slated for delivery tomorrow! I am told it is unsigned, 1700's era blade, faint light forging line is visable. To be honest, I am expecting the worst! Here are a few other non-discript photos. All I have not related to the tuska, tsuba, etc.

The item is being shipped to me as we speak (type) and I will have detail pictures this week. This is the only other picture I have. Why put Tachi parts on it? All new to me, but I am the human sponge.

I am leaning towards maroon and or deep green. Is this an issue? Don't want to be out of style if you will.

Thanks for the education. I assume mine is a "modern" or Showa period piece?

Another Newbie question. I have a tsuba, and it has what appear to be hearts in the corners. The tsuba I have is in my uneducated opinion, not old, but a somewhat modern version. My question is, I have looked at a lot of tsuba, and few have the hearts, is this a school of design, or does it signify something different? Photo of mine. Thanks, Justin

Newbie question, but I just aquired my first katana, and it is an older sword redone in the modern era in para-military style. I would like to put it back to 18th century look. What tsuka colors are typical of the 18th century? Also, tsuba advise would also be appreciated. Thanks, Justin