shepps

Thanks very much for posting; I almost gave up waiting for any anyone to answer. Regarding the safety issue, I have a great respect for all weapons as they are all dangerous, even the fakes. I would not use any antique weapon for physical martial arts practice. I have too much respect for the past masters for that. No I have a Paul Chen for cutting, which for the price is very good indeed. You may rest assured that I don’t walk around the streets poking cats with sticks. Or stand on one leg pretending to do the crane kick like the karate kid. I am 39 years old and have been studying the martial arts for some 25 years. In those years I have learned patience but more importantly, not to “go around swinging anything†with or without a handle. I find it best to avoid external conflict, as the greatest battle is within. I intend no offense but you make me sound like brain dead moron. I thought it would be obvious but, this sword has a tsuka. I removed it so you could see the tang. Perhaps my original post was a little vague, I am not seeking approval or an appraisal, the sword is NOT for sale. Also I don’t feel this blade is valuable or a lost national treasure. I was just hoping someone with more experience would share their knowledge. I thought the blade looked Chinese, not sure about the fake bit though. From my experience I have found that most fakes generally have a “to good to be true†look about them. This blade is very plain and ordinary with no visible grain or hamon. If it is a fake the …err... faker spent a long time making a good, strong and very sharp blade with no redeeming features. The silver work on the saya is very fine; I would be surprised if he made much profit. Of course the saya may not be original to the blade. The blade is plain bland and ordinary but it has a good shape and balance and is very good quality hard steel. I have seen examples of the Damascus gone wrong with the acid etched hamon. This is not one of those. They feel cheap and silver plated with a lack quality and no finishing touches. The fakers aim is to get as many $ as they can. I have never seen a faker with “pride in the job†what do you think? Regards Stephen Shepperd

Can anyone shed any light on this blade I do not think its Japanese. I bought it about 20 years ago from a second hand dealer I knew. It was in bad shape with rust pitting and missing the hilt/handle when I bought it. The saya is wood with silver wrapped around it. The blade is very sharp. I was told it was a cheap Burmese dah. Oh they also said it was a tourist junk. Based on this assessment I have been using it to practice my martial arts. I have never really used it for proper cutting practice; I like it to much for that. I only use it to test my accuracy and even slow and gentle strikes make light work of a suspended 4" x 4" fence post. The tang is roughly triangular but un-even; it is smooth and a dark black in colour. The very tip of the tang is unfinished and left to reveal the core. I have just been looking at this with my new 30x jeweler’s loupe and the steel looks folded. It looks like the cross section of a Cadbury’s choc flake. The cross section of the blade is triangular. The blade is not sharp down to the tang and I can not see a hamon. The edge of the blade appears to have fine lines along it, kind of like the edge of puff pastry. I’m now starting to think that it may be better than I was told and starting to wonder if I should be cutting with it. Any help appreciated, many thanks Stephen Shepperd.

I have reduced the picture and I think it works now. I have emailed it to you just incase. I intend to keep the sword for many years. It had most of the fittings replaced during WW2. I understand that some Japanese used old civilian swords with new fittings. I belive mine is one of those. When I bought it it was described as "showing considerable signs of age and use, probably shinto". I think it needs a polish, but I'm not sure. I have posted several times regarding this sword project and added pics of the tsuka, but don't seem to get much constructive feedback. I have had some useful info about my tsuba which probably has a mon on it. I'm not sure how to translate it. Thanks for your input, I will wait a few days and see if anyone else responds before I remove the leather. Regards, Stephen Shepperd

Hi, could anyone give me any advice about removing leather from a saya. I was told that to protect the original finish of the saya during the war it was bound with leather. I was also told the original saya is likely to be under the leather. Has anyone ever heard of this before? I would like to remove the leather and have a plain civilian finish. I see what looks like thick black shiny paint under a small area of damage to the leather. I have posted a pic of the sword and saya in case someone can see from the shape if it looks original. Any advice appreciated as I do not want to ruin my saya. Many thanks in advance Stephen Shepperd.

Hi, does anyone have any ideas about the age and school of this tsuba. I bought it recently to mount on a shinto katana which I am restoring. It is un-signed but I think the design looks like a word or text. Anyone know how to read Japanese. :lol: ....Any ideas much appreciated. Many thanks Stephen Shepperd

I have added some pics any ideas about the age of this tsuka much appreciated. Stephen Shepperd

Hi, perhaps a silly question but I feel if you don’t know you ask. Does anyone know if or when cotton was ever used to wrap tsuka? I have been told my sword is an old Shinto katana (I have some poor quality pic’s if anyone’s interested) and I would like to restore it, but the tsuka I have seems wrong. The tsuka seems to be made from wood that has a 1â€groove down both sides with dirty looking ray skin. It feels like it is wrapped with dark blue cotton braid. The menuki appear to be brass with a deep patina and of plant branches with fruit in a gold looking alloy. The menuki appear to be the same, almost like they were cast. I have not seen any reference to cast menuki from the Shinto era. Does anyone know if cast menuki were used? There seems a slight difference in the menuki but perhaps it’s just the wear of the patina or they were cast, and then altered slightly. The fuchi and kashira are iron, very plain; with no design at all just a very deep brown black rust patina. I am a collector of jade, jadeite and bonsai and do a little kung fu. I am very new to Japanese swords so do not understand the terminology well, but I will Google if I’m unsure. Any ideas or suggestions welcome I have some pictures if needed. Many thanks in advance Stephen Shepperd.