How to tell apart oil and water quenched hamon?

[Oaken]

How can I tell apart oil quenched hamon and water quenched hamon? Are there differing levels of activity? Both types can be polished in the same techniques, right? 
I'm sorry if my questions seem dumb, I'm just a newish beginner. 

[paulb]

Hi Abdul,

The answer is it can be very difficult to tell at times especially if the sword is in less than good polish. General pointers oil quenching does not usually produce much nie if any and where it does it tends to be sporadic uneven and ugly. The nioiguchi can be blurry and often has what looks like dark ashi dropping underneath it towards the ha. There is little if any activity within the hamon.

Unfortunately many of these features can also appear in traditionally harden swords of certain schools so as I said it isn't always easy.

BTW don't worry there aren't any dumb questions asking is the best way to learn.

 

[Brian]

Reminder that antique, traditionally made Nihonto are water quenched (please don't throw obscure exceptions at me) and that swords that are oil quenched are generally wartime arsenal swords, using shortcuts for expedience and show far less or no activities and generally no real exciting hada.
Oil quenched = less desirable, non Nihonto.
Real Traditional Japanese swords = water quenched.

[PNSSHOGUN]

The easiest way to tell is the presence of dark points in the peaks in the Hamon. There are lots of previous threads and examples on this topic:

 

 

[ROKUJURO]

Abdul,

welcome to the board!

Industrially made wartime sword blades are mostly made of modern tool steel which has to be quenched in oil to prevent cracks. Traditionally made blades from TAMAHAGANE steel have to be hardened in water. These blades have an inner structure and show HADA. Polishing is very different and does not have similar results. 

Looking at different blades will soon train your eyes!

[Oaken]

7 hours ago, ROKUJURO said:

Abdul,

welcome to the board!

Industrially made wartime sword blades are mostly made of modern tool steel which has to be quenched in oil to prevent cracks. Traditionally made blades from TAMAHAGANE steel have to be hardened in water. These blades have an inner structure and show HADA. Polishing is very different and does not have similar results. 

Looking at different blades will soon train your eyes!

 Thank you Jean! Do you have any idea where I can find galleries to view nihonto? 

[ROKUJURO]

Abdul,

probably you wont find galleries which have militaria on exposition, but there are many museums worldwide that display traditional Japanese weapons.

I cannot comment on the situation in Pakistan, but as long as you have no auction house, Japanese sword club, arms fairs, galleries and museums close to your place, you will have to use what is available to you: The NMB is a very good place to find and gather information, as we have a great stock of research material, a trade/sales section, and the possibility to ask questions and discuss your own treasures. 

[Stephen]

Check links.....aoi arts ect for good nihonto hamons. Then check ebay guntos if you start to see difference in hamon (the afforded mentioned hard peaks) in time you'll be able to tell. If you see something your wanting to buy and not sure plenty of help here.