Swords on Exhibit - Oiled(?)

[EastCoast]

Folks - Amazon canceled my order. Apparently there are more important things they need to get out. I've replaced the order and will see what happens.

[Blazeaglory]

Folks - Amazon canceled my order. Apparently there are more important things they need to get out. I've replaced the order and will see what happens.

They cancelled the wax and metal blocks?

[EastCoast]

I kid you not. What strange times we live in.

[b.hennick]

It could be that those items are not in their warehouse. The seller may have been closed by the situation that we are all facing.

[EastCoast]

Barry,

 

What's odd is that they went out and were dispatched back. They were sold directly by Amazon and it originated in CA. My guess is that this may be related to flight disruptions.

 

I reordered and this time it is showing it as originating from VA. Should be here Friday.

 

Best,

James

[EastCoast]

So this is far from a true scientific approach, but here is what I did. I decided to use a butter knife as my base metal (stainless steel M.I.J.). The blade part was rough sanded using 320 grit paper. The pictures and descriptions have been included in order.

 

I attempted my best to keep the lighting and angles the same. Unfortunately, I do not have time to combine these for a side by side comparison. I'll try to get to that tomorrow. Looking forward to reading your observations, questions, and other ideas.

 

1. The full knife prior to cleaning.

2. The blade after cleaning with soap and water.

3. The handle area after cleaning with soap and water.

4. The blade after cleaning with 100% alcohol.

5. The handle area after cleaning with100% alcohol.

6. The blade after applying wax.

7. The handle area after applying wax.

8. The blade after very gently buffing with tissue paper.

9. The handle area after very gently buffing with tissue paper.

10. Final shot with the wax.

 

 

[16k]

Let’s wait and see... though for a more accurate test, a carbon steel blade that can rust would be closer to the real deal. Here you’ll be able to judge translucency, removal but not protection.

[EastCoast]

I think protection has been validated. I'll apply to a carbon steel blade.

[Bugyotsuji]

What does 320 grit mean?

 

Is it on the scale that I am familiar with, i.e. 100+/- coarse, 1,500+/- fine, so your 320 would be pretty coarse? 

[EastCoast]

Yes, rather course. This was to see if the wax would be visible in the scratches after the application, within one week, and finally after removal.

[16k]

What do they advise to remove it? And since you have it in hand, does it change the outer aspect of the metal (glazing...)?

[EastCoast]

After doing some research, they say to use mineral spirits. There has been some talk on the board about using MS, but it doesn't sound like anyone has tried it. People use the combination on some high end firearms with great success.

 

As for appearance it looks brighter to me. To my eye it looks significantly better and the pictures do not do it justice. It doesn't have that same filmy look like the high end oil I use.

[16k]

Oil tends to hide the detail, Hada especially, do you think this would be the same here?

[EastCoast]

::UPDATE::

 

I've stripped the wax from the knife. I used tissue and a little bit of mineral spirits. I noticed that the luster has gone back to the original state. It was not hard to remove the wax. It required very little pressure - similar to removing oil. I think the key was the very lite application, as is described in other forums.

 

Now to test this further, I decided to try this on a piece of plastic. The goal was to test how much residual wax is left after cleaning if any.

Based on these results, I feel this may be a viable solution for displaying blades in an exhibit like setting. Please let me be clear that this was never meant to be a torture test. I am not going to leave things out in the rain or anything of the like. I find those types of tests to be extreme and unrealistic, considering how most of us care for our collection.

 

Next I with try this on a blade with a hagire that is in good polish.

 

Pictures in order:

1. Knife\Blade cleaned with MS and tissue.

2. Handle cleaned with MS and tissue.

3. Plastic piece cleaned with Windex.

4. Plastic - Wax applied lightly prior to buffing.

5. Plastic - Wax buffed using a tissue. Buffing in straight lines like you would when cleaning nihonto.

6. Plastic- Clean with MS.

[Oshy]

Is this testing renessance wax? From what I remember reading the wax will protect for years but the properties change over time and it will haze gradually as it ages. It's also difficult to remove due to how the properties change over time, perhaps it dries and hardens or something. So I don't think testing removal after a couple days will be an accurate test.

[EastCoast]

Oshy,

 

I agree it is not a solid test. At this stage I am hestant to introduce additional hearsay from users on other boards that have had success.

 

I'm willing to test and research the topic further. Can you please share any sources you have? I've seen only one scientific paper on the topic, but it raised more questions than answered.

 

Again, to be clear. My usage would be for a 6 month temporary display at a university. I'm not proposing or suggesting anything longer without a more controlled test.

[Oshy]

Sorry that's just from memory, don't recall where it was from. I was researching it last year to determine if open blade display was feasible or not. Ended up deciding against it.

[EastCoast]

I've applied it to a blade.

 

Before you view the pictures here are some observations. If you have ever waxed a car, correctly, you will know that you must apply it very sparingly. This makes the removal or reapplication much easier. Same is true for RW. It goes on like oil if applied properly.

 

It does not mask the hada at all. If anything it bring it out! This is hard to tell from the first picture (Cleaned) and the fifth picture (AfterWax1). I could not recreate the lighting and angle. I added some side shots that are much better, but not great!

 

Feel free to ask any questions or post any concerns.

 

[16k]

No concerns, just waiting for updates in the long run...

[EastCoast]

Applied to a neck gaurd as well. I'll let this sit in direct light.

[EastCoast]

I've been happy with the results and have now coated everything less armour sets. I'll update with pictures. No hazing, rust, or spots.

 

Plan to update on a monthly basis moving forward.

[Oshy]

From my understanding, the main issue people have with RW is trying to remove it after a year+. Hope it goes ok for you down the road now that its been applied to your whole collection!

[EastCoast]

Oshy,

 

I wonder how heavy it was applied. It should go on very thin. When applied like this it comes off very easy with mineral spirits. That's what I've noticed at least. Time will tell.

[Jamie]

I use Fujishiro oil.

I agree completely with Grey.

[EastCoast]

Jamie,

 

FO is a great product. I didn't think it was suitable for what I am trying to accomplish though. I'll continue to test and people can judge for themselves.

 

Do you display your blades openly?

[EastCoast]

Anyone interested in updates? I will be back home tomorrow after nearly a month and a half out. Assuming my housekeeper didn't walk with my collection. I can take some new pictures to see how the wax has held up. 

[16k]

I’m really interested. Tell us if there’s any frosting or if it can still be removed easily.

[Gakusee]

Please do provide updates for the rest of the year, if possible. Not every week but every couple of months indeed. Initial protection is clear but the long-term effect is what interests more. Thank you 

[EastCoast]

All,

 

This update has been a long time coming. I wanted to be able to give things time in order to provide an accurate and comprehensive review. 

 

1. After years of display the only thing I have had to do is give the wax a quick swipe with the microdear to enhance the shine. There has been no clumping. There have been times when the wax has ever so slightly hazed, but those were only on blades in areas without dedicated climate controlled cases. 

 

2. I recently removed and reapplied the wax. I do not think this was even necessary, but I was curious about how hard it would be to remove after sitting. The process I used was to wipe the blades with denatured alcohol. I then used a heat gun set to 140 to quickly pass over the blade followed by another wipe down. It removed 100% of the wax. 

 

3. As to protection, I had tools rust in the same area I had some of the treated blades displayed. There was absolutely no corrosion on the treated blades at all.

 

If I receive enough requests, I will make a video on the application and removal.

 

Best,

James

 

 

[Gakusee]

Hi James

Thank you for persevering and updating us! 
Did you manage to remove the wax without a heat gun? Does it wipe off easily only with Microfibre? Or do you need Microfibre and alcohol? Thanks