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Kintsugi


RobertM

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Thanks for sharing the article Robert. There was an interesting show on Nhk sometime in the last year about this but my memory isnt cooperating but if i remember the name i will tell you.

Nice work Patrice. Next time i drop one of my bonsai i might have to try it.

 

Greg

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi Guys,

I actually got to do a repair. as,

One of my Soraku Sasaki Chawans broke..

I was told there is  one small crack, when I bought it,

but, last week, I was taking this bowl out of the box, and, I felt the wall

"Crumble" .

Ahhhh.. :(

I wonder if there was enough stress from expansion and contraction due to the Hawaii Climate.

 

Hope I can "save" this Bowl, and, if "Fortunate", make it look better with Kintsugi

The video below, explains some ways  Kintsugi  shares the struggles of life.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBUTQkaSSTY&t=36s

 

Thanks for viewing :)

Alton

 

Reply to Piers Post below:   Piers, I actually did not see any cracks when I receive the Bowl.

I put is with the other "bunch" of boxes, and, forgot about it till the other week.

When I was going to see what was inside the Tomobako ( I got so many Tomobakos laying around) , that is when I felt the side "break off"/ crumble.

:)

post-2090-0-89855100-1520961417_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

This looked like fun.

 

I need to ask minor advice. I purchased the kit that Malcolm linked.

In repairing an extremely fine hairline crack on an old english briarwood smoking pipe [like a Dunhill], can I skip to the /neri bengara/ red urushi stage?

 

The hairline is along a small meandering woodgrain line. The pipe is functional as is and the crack does not penetrate through the pipe into the bowl.

The repair is entirely aesthetic.

     The idea for this came from some of the urushi painted Dunhill pipes that were done in Japan many years ago.

Regarding heat:  The pipe is thick sort of very hard briarwood pipe. It never gets hot enough eternally that it would be too warm to hold.

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Playing with lacquer is enjoyable, an unpleasant reaction is not, do take care.  One of the reasons for the prep work is to give the final lacquer layer(s) a stable surface as it tends to settle in to any crack or pit.  If it is truly an extremely fine crack you could give it a go.....but the need for a second application is possible. Also, I would mask off the adjacent areas as the fine gold powder finds its way into any rough texture and can be difficult to remove.  Have fun.

 

Cheers,

p.s.- a`la Namiki.

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Steve,

 

Thanks. Having watched the view and the dust, I will tape it off considerably.

I've worked with both gold foil and silver foil in certain leatherwork and antiques restoration, but never used dust.

 

I'll be using an extremely fine brush, and apply additional coats as I observe necessary.

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