Jump to content

Wooden Insert For Nco Gunto Scabbard


BANGBANGSAN

Recommended Posts

Is anyone know where to get those wooden pieces insert for NCO sword scabbard?Or any one can put the wood piece in?

Thanks 

Trystan

You will only be able to get one from another saya. Even those 95's in the worst condition many may consider junk swords sell for a fairly high price now. It's neither economical nor common to find these.

 

Best bet is make one if you can. Or ask someone skilled in woodworking to do so. I to am missing the insert and throat on one scabbard. A shame but I have yet to find a replacement (plus it's the scarce black scabbard. Typical).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Hi to anyone who may still be following this topic.( if not I will post it somewhere else)

 

Looking for some dimensions for Type 95 wooden saya inserts.

 

I have acquired relic-ish Type 95 (iron Tsuba) which is in need of inserts for the saya.  The sound when you draw/replace the sword is worse than chalk on a board (even when your careful).  The blade is quite sad but genuine, bit like an well aged wine that has been stored incorrectly.

 

I take note of the videos above (thanks Jean C. for posting them all those years ago).  I will be attempting my own inserts but it would be great to have some dimensions width, thickness at possibly 4 specific points from the bottom of the brass insert on the scabbard throat down the saya.  If someone has some inserts that can easily be removed without damaging screws or the inserts themselves, then I would really appreciate some caliper dimensions as mentioned.

 

I would be happy to report back with a few photos of the finished job (hopefully) for the interest of members.  I intend to complete a balsa model first as its easier to work on and if it comes up ok i will change to something a little firmer but still easy to work.

 

Regards

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Borrow the liners out of another scabbard to use as a model. It will save you a lot of work, even if it is rotton or trashed. I use the same trick when making a new tsuka, which is why I have a collection of trashed originals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi to anyone who may still be following this topic.( if not I will post it somewhere else)

 

Looking for some dimensions for Type 95 wooden saya inserts.

 

I have acquired relic-ish Type 95 (iron Tsuba) which is in need of inserts for the saya.  The sound when you draw/replace the sword is worse than chalk on a board (even when your careful).  The blade is quite sad but genuine, bit like an well aged wine that has been stored incorrectly.

 

I take note of the videos above (thanks Jean C. for posting them all those years ago).  I will be attempting my own inserts but it would be great to have some dimensions width, thickness at possibly 4 specific points from the bottom of the brass insert on the scabbard throat down the saya.  If someone has some inserts that can easily be removed without damaging screws or the inserts themselves, then I would really appreciate some caliper dimensions as mentioned.

 

I would be happy to report back with a few photos of the finished job (hopefully) for the interest of members.  I intend to complete a balsa model first as its easier to work on and if it comes up ok i will change to something a little firmer but still easy to work.

 

Regards

Rob

Ok, here ya go, good luck!

post-3487-0-56546500-1595344287_thumb.jpg

post-3487-0-34495800-1595344297_thumb.jpg

post-3487-0-25108100-1595344307_thumb.jpg

post-3487-0-61035100-1595344316_thumb.jpg

post-3487-0-95320000-1595344345_thumb.jpg

post-3487-0-54064900-1595344368_thumb.jpg

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dave, just dont have any to take out but would certainly have been easier if had. Tks

Hi Bruce, what can I say. That was really great of you to do that. I now know what they look like and thats a bonus. I can pretty well understand your measurement points but if I need clarification on your pics I hope I can PM you.

This dosn't look totally un-do-able (he says confidently ) and I'm looking forward to a start ... hopefully tomoz.

Regards
Rob

Will post results, when I finish

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Bruce and all,

 

On the final sanding fitting stages of the balsa 'prototype'.

 

Im happy with this so far although something a litle more robust than balsa would be a plus. Might have a look at Paulownia as an upgrade as it has better (anti) insect & water properties and is an asiatic timber.

 

But I suppose the new inserts will only be protecting the blade and will not be subject to the rigours of operational use so with minimal oiling the soft timber may do the job.

 

In regard to your inserts with 'paper' glued over the outside, I wonder if cracks or holes appeared in the insert during the final sanding/fitting (can get very thin) and the paper was to repair or strengthen the insert?

 

Fingers crossed for my final stage.

 

Regards

Rob

post-4603-0-71250000-1596078483_thumb.jpg

post-4603-0-99163700-1596078537_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Bruce and all,

 

On the final sanding fitting stages of the balsa 'prototype'.

 

Im happy with this so far although something a litle more robust than balsa would be a plus. Might have a look at Paulownia as an upgrade as it has better (anti) insect & water properties and is an asiatic timber.

 

But I suppose the new inserts will only be protecting the blade and will not be subject to the rigours of operational use so with minimal oiling the soft timber may do the job.

 

In regard to your inserts with 'paper' glued over the outside, I wonder if cracks or holes appeared in the insert during the final sanding/fitting (can get very thin) and the paper was to repair or strengthen the insert?

 

Fingers crossed for my final stage.

 

Regards

Rob

 

 The best wood to use is Honoki, which believe it or not is easier to get than  Paulownia, though that is available from makers of traditional surf boards. You can buy Honoki blanks here. I have found them helpfull and fairly easy to deal with, and they accept Paypal! https://www.namikawa-ltd.com/product-list/12

 

 Other substitutes used at the time are listed in the last post here.

 

http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/32714-wet-dirty-saya-liners/

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave thanks for the tip in the Honoki and links to supplier and other suitable timbers. All noted. I am lucky to have an old work collegue in my town that has an exotic timber business so will make a visit. Balsa is great to 'cut your teeth on' but something slighty heavier would be more suitable.

 

Hi Steve, I have to be honest and say that I am not looking for business. I will finish the prototype today and its been so enjoyable but also so time consuming. For me, this came out of necessity as I had none in my 95 saya, and, I just loved the challenge.

 

Having said that and while Im still enthused, I would like to have a crack at making a matching insert for Brian's missing piece if he wished (Hi Brian, you have been very helpful..another great member). Again, it would be a challenge to copy a real one, gratis of course, bearing in mind that my motto with these things is 'all care taken but no responsability accepted'

 

As mentioned, I hope to post my finished inserts today if all goes well. Ive learned a lot as this is essentially custom made and its getting quite thin in certain areas but will still be quite functional for a non-operational 95. Maybe not nihonto though!

 

Regards

Rob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Job done.

 

I have decided that the 'prototype' will become the permanent inserts for my (sad but loved) 95. They fit well and are functional although the final fit was way (WAY!!!) more in-depth and time  consuming than the lead up work.  Im happy with the result.  In the end this turned out to be a custom made job (sand, measure, fit...sand, measure fit...etc etc etc)..... I really think that a complete saya (as per Jean C's video) would be easier and maybe more fun....easier anyway.

 

What I have leaned.....

The final stage can take a long long time to finalise

My expression "how hard can it be" is now a known thing

Correct/good tools can make or break a job

 

But onwards and upwards...still loving it and have a job copying an 'actual' insert so we will see how that goes.  Decided on Australian Red Cedar (different from Western Red Cedar). 

 

 

 

Regards Rob

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20200810_183323.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thread is quite old. Please consider starting a new thread rather than reviving this one, unless your post is really relevant and adds to the topic..

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...