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  1. I bought a blade with habaki, so I need to make everything else myself. Koshirae: I decided to make aikuchi with buffalo horn fittings with flower motif
  2. saved blade... sashikomi finishing. Blade was very rusty. I started my work with kongo-do Then I used next step stones after uchigumori-do I used hazuya and jizuya Send Your feedback, please.
  3. Dear NMB Members, my Name is Tim and I bought a Kogatana from the Edo period. Unfortunately I don't know the accurate year, but it is signed and I need help with the translation. Because of the polishing process or just the time the kanji are not that easy to see. I tried to reconstruct them, but I am not sure, if they are correct. In the photos you can see the blade from two diffrent angles and the kanji I reconstructed. Regretfully the third character is nearly completely gone. I would be happy about any thoughts and help with the translation, with best regards Tim
  4. Hey all! Just joined as I saw that you're all a very active community and as I cannot read signatures so I thought I would ask for help with this particular wakizashi. It has a kikumon on the nakago and then a smith signature. I would love to be told any sort of information you guys can glean from the signature. Age, smith, apparent rarity would all be much appreciated. I've only recently started to acquire more nihonto for my collection of blades and I am now sitting at a little little over half a dozen nihonto of varying types. It has the original silver foil habaki and a shirasaya. If something special, it would be my first nihonto to choose for restoration to display mounts. Pictures below, feel free to ask for more and I can try to get more! Thanks very much! ~Chris
  5. Dear Fellow Collectors, Hope you are all good. Hoping to get some advice from you all about cleaning up a blade myself. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-samurai-sword-katana-with-koshirae-tsuka-tsuba-/123183169971?nma=true&si=RKKWZP2A9GTVpzekT9%252BbWeIMNak%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 I’ve been collecting nihonto, and nihonto books for a good long while, and I have employed professionals to do restoration work in the past numerous times, but I would very much like to try and clean (just clean, not restore, not polish) this sword and koshirae myself. I envision the following goals, and would gladly take advice from anyone who has knowledge of how to achieve these: Clean as much of the rust off of the blade as possible without damaging the jacket steel. —In my mind, sandpaper, wire brushes, steel wool, etc. are NOT options. Those options would certainly be quick, but they would potentially compromise the jacket steel and disfigure the blade. —I am hoping to find some advice about specific chemicals, oils or electrolytic processes, etc. that can be used in combination with “elbow grease”, to slowly work away the rust on the blade and fittings. Ideally these would be chemicals and oils that will not end up “acid etching” the blade in the process. —Electrolysis to remove the rust may not be possible because I don’t want to remove the rust from the nakago, and submerging the entire blade in order to remove the rust on the blade via electrolysis would probably result in that. Submerging it in part could be possible...? I will likely end up leaving the saya the way it is with the exception of cleaning up the kojiri as described above, and the koiguchi as described below. —Do you think I need to remove the kojiri to do this? It seems I would need to given the amount of rust it has picked up, but perhaps not. —I would appreciate any advice about removing the kojiri and reapplying it after cleaning, if people think that is necessary. I will likely keep the tsuka wrapped the way it is. I like the old worn look that it has, and I don’t want to try and do much with that. It looks like it is still tight and was well made at the time. Cleaning the menuki a bit would be nice but if they’re impossible to get out then I’m not going to fuss with it. I would appreciate any advice people would offer about cleaning up the tsuba. I don’t need it to sparkle or be shinsa worthy, but it would be nice if the details of it were a little less obscured. I suspect in this case that just a little bit of cleaning with the right polishing product and an appropriately thick rag would get me to the goal, but I have never really done anything like this myself so I don’t know what the best approach is. The habaki, koiguchi, fuchi, and kashira I think similarly to as the tsuba. I do not have any interest in trying to remove the kashira to clean it. As a point of clarity: I do not think of this blade as a project for the purposes of fixing it up and getting it ready for shinsa. I already have a Nidai Muramasa tanto (passed NTHK-NPO by Miyano, now in line for NBTHK shinsa) and a Ko-Gassan tachi (again, passed NTHK-NPO by Miyano, now being polished by Usuki sensei) so I have enough projects, and I know the difference between a Juyo candidate and a nice old blade that deserve to remain a nice old blade. From what I can see in the photos the seller provided, this is not a gem of a blade anyhow but it is nihonto. It is not a premium length, certainly made later than Shinto, maybe even Edo and maybe in the original koshirae, though I can’t quite tell if the tsuka has two holes in it or just some damage next to the mekugi. I can see a hint of notare in what little is visible of the hamon, obviously mumei, maybe a little bit of machi-okure, has been polished a few times in the past given the declining notch at the hamachi. The end goal here is to make the sword into a respectable but NOT mint condition, NOT shinsa worthy, example of an old working blade. I don’t want to make it into a museum piece here folks, I just want to honor it by getting it back into appreciable condition, preserve it further, and not have to spend thousands of dollars doing it. Any advice you might have to help me achieve this goal would be appreciated. Thank you! John A. Shea, MD
  6. Hey there, As I'm quite new in the nihonto world I require som advice regarding a wakizashi. Certificate: NTHK (Nihon Token Hozon Kai) Certificate date: 16/7-2017 Signed by: Chief Executive Officer Teiji Miyano Forge: TOMOYUKI Province: Bungo School: Takada Era: Muromachi Year: Bunei 1469-1486 Leaf style: Shinogi Zukuri Iorimune Kitae Itame Hamon: Suguha komaru gaeri Mekugi ana: 1 Full Length: 65.5cm Wakizashi: 63.5cm (sword) Nagasa: 43.5cm (cutting section on the blade) Sori: 1.1cm (curvature) Tsuka: 18cm (handle) It is offered at 1600 usd. I would be very grateful If there was anyone who could give there input. Thank very much. Lukas Gerdin
  7. This is a *very* indepth and informative thread on just how different lubricants, gun oils and other similar products perform for protecting metals. Worth a read and compare with your own experiences using some on swords. https://www.shootersforum.com/gun-cleaning/91566-results-gun-care-product-evaluation.html I thought the staining and corrosive tests were particularly relevant due to the different and delicate materials found in Japanese swords. Some of the more aggressive gun cleaning products and oils are good for cleaning martial arts swords but none of us would dream of using them on Nihonto.
  8. This sword was owned by my grandfather. The fuchi, kashira, tsuba and shito-dome are iron. The blade length is 22" to the mune-machi. There is no signature that I can see. Would this blade be appropriate for practicing Iado or katas? The wood tsuka core is cracked through the menuki-ana, and the ito and same are badly deteriorated. I want to use the existing menuki, fuchi and kashira to build a new tsuka, although I do feel kind of bad about unwrapping the old handle. Right now there is no way to secure the blade due to the crack in the old tsuka. I'm interested in any information about the origins of the blade and koshirae. Thank you very much!
  9. Yves55

    Waves

    I hate to touch old (?) pieces, but the back side of this tsuba may need some restoration... What do you think? For me it's like a black lacquer. Any suggestions? 82 x 74 x 3,5 mm - iron - 138 gr.
  10. Southeast Japanese Sword Show & Auction February 9-12, 2017 Tampa Airport Marriott Hotel SHOW SCHEDULE Thursday, February 9, 2017 Exhibitor Setup & Trade 5:00 pm - 10:00 pm Friday, February 10, 2017 Exhibitor Setup ONLY 8:30 am - 10:00 General Admission 10:00 - 10:00 pm Live Auction 7:00 pm Saturday, February 11, 2017 General Admission 9:00 am - 10:00 pm Dealers’ Dinner 6:00 pm - 7:30 pm Sunday, February 12, 2017 General Admission 9:00 am - 4:00 pm Please, see attached Poster and sign-up form. Bill Green 904-347-3144
  11. Hello All Looking for some advice on where to find replacement screws for ishizuke (Chape-tip) (model 44-blackish color), need one screw here, and one for Kuchi-Gane (throat) have no ideas where to even start as far as size etc (maybe .5MM???) Also need a couple of screws for am early war shin-gunto (the type with open cast patina covered Tsuba and the fairly standard OD green Saya. Any ideas on where to look? Thanks
  12. Hello All, Well, I guess I am another one of the inheritors, I picked up a Gunto last month while cleaning my Moms estate, both in a box that said give/throw away! My mom (age 94) said it was just junk that my uncle had brought back after VJ. I think it is a type 98 (or so my wobbly research would indicate) with all mounting etc. My brother painted the saya (arghhhh) to dress up as soldier in a school play. I never really noticed it, but regardless of value, my uncle did take the sword on Saipan, while serving as an Army tank crew commander. I then got the fever and bought a second unmounted blade at a local Gun show, probably just got hit by a Chinese stealth weapon, as I guess it is their intent to subvert and remove all the joy for imperialist new collectors. There is picture attached which I think is the Type 98 gunto no marking on nakago, and the tang seems like it was either cut or intentionally made short. Conversely, my gun-show unmounted blade seems noticeably heavier, and noticeably thicker right at the top notch point. The owner said the unmounted blade might have been Naval, but he was not for sure. I realize the script maybe important and tell me meeeahh, the sword is worth nothing or maybe something, I will get that checked later. If it turns out to be of little of no value I hope to make it into a restoration project anyway. Hence the following questions: My most immediate question is why the nakago (tang) lengths (measured from base of Habaki to the tip of tang) are so different? The one taken from my mother's home measures about 14 cm and the gun show 100 dollar wonder measurements from base of Habaki to tail is just under 20cm. Was there a standard tang length? My mounted Gunto has an almost straight cut at the end of the tang, and the blade itself has some what of a gentle curve, whilst the unmounted one has a pronounced long skinny tapper to it tang? Lastly are all meguki whole locations somewhat different?
  13. A couple weeks ago i received my first blade,a meiji mumei bare tanto in deplorable conditions with a lot of active rust.First i made a shirasaya(very weird looking )Then ,after some cleaning i managed to remove the red rust and 'partially' make it shine.The problem is that it has some big black stains along the blade that doesn't come off(Under light they look red/dark brown)Any ideas of how to remove them? Thanks -Jose
  14. Hi,lets say i have a blade in very bad shape,extremely rusted,so my question is:would it be better to leave it like that,or take out the rust by force? I don't care about looks,i could always take it to a polisher someday,but i want to get rid of rust to prevent it from spreading,what do you recommend me to do? How could i start the proccess? Is there any way to remove the rust without ussing abrassive tools? I heard somewhere that wrapping the sword with a cloth with some oil and leaving it rest for a few days will weaken the rust so it could be removed,does that work? The picture attached is taken from the internet,my blade shape is similar to that one's Cheers Josh
  15. If you were building a koshirae in Uchigatana style and your ready to have a new saya started your vote please A: plane saya no pockets B: one for kozuka C: one for kogai D: two for both kogai and kozuka Thank you for your answer. searching images i have found all the above
  16. Hi all, I have a Higo Koshirae that was missing the Kozuka, and although I tried to find a match, I could not, so I sought the assistance of a professional - Robert Soanes - to solve my problem. http://katchushi.com/restoration-2/kodogu.html I purchased an old Kozuka that the 'motif' or design had fallen off and I asked if he could save/ restore it to suit my Koshirae. I must say that I am very pleased with the service and the result. Not only did he make a new Shakudo Kamon to suit, he 'cleaned' the old Kozuka of the old 'glue' and made it look nearly new..! I cannot wipe the smile from my face..! I cannot recommend his (or any of the other contemporary restoration professionals) services enough. If any of you are thinking about having something made or restored, then I can only say that you should seek (and support) their very valuable services. If I were a younger man, I would apprentice myself to any one of them... Some photos of the finished Koshirae.. Barrie.
  17. Hello, I'm playing with the idea to mount a set fuchi kashira but unfortunately the shitodome are missing. If I can not find old ones I'll have to make them (...these cheap new cast ones are not an option...). Is there anything I have to consider in style and material to complete below f/k set? Any information regarding this topic is welcome!
  18. Hello members of the Nihonto Message Board. I've been looking at the following sword, for sale on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291374956517?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT As I see it, the pros are that it is a signed (suriage) koto blade from a known maker of the ko-Uda school, assuming that the seller has attributed it to the correct Uda Kunitomo. The cons are that the rust is obscuring most of the blade's features, including any flaws that polishing might reveal. While I think it would be rewarding to get the blade polished, mounted in shirasaya, and sent off to shinsa I want to make sure that I'm not romanticizing the results of buying a cheap blade in crap condition off of ebay. I would appreciate if you guys could not only give me advice, but also talk me through the reasons for the advice so I can understand what you're considering or seeing that I haven't had the experience for yet. Also, I understand that daito polish, shirasaya, and new habaki are quite expensive. If I bought this, the goal would be to have it ready for NTHK shinsa this summer- is that a reasonable timeline for the polish/remounting process? Thank you for the advice.
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