Jump to content

NewB

Gold Tier
  • Posts

    1,151
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by NewB

  1. It's impossible to tell from these photos http://www.ksky.ne.jp/~sumie99/shingane.html this might give you a perspective Cheers J.
  2. First, @ChrisWis nice about what he said. If you do it, don't say it - the results will be immediate Now, as to the blade thickness - compare the thickest part of the nakago mune to the thinnest on the blade mune - it is evident even in this blurry photo that this has been through a lot. Folks use the term - 'tired' blade. Anything of stress could be fatal. You want to cut? Buy a modern blade that is non traditionally made and do what you wish, the rest is eternal sin and condemnation by the nihonto society! J.
  3. Fatal flaws are perpendicular to the blade's length such as what your photo is showing. The area around it has a different hue than the rest of the blade. Also the mune is considerably thicker so ... Nobody knows how deep that is.. I'd Send it to a professional polisher if it's that important! J.
  4. I think it is. If your mune meets a flying katana strike near that flaw I think it'll brake in half, therefore - fatal. J.
  5. You’re entitled to your opinion. I’m new to this, Ray however has been doing it for over 35 years… J.
  6. Same as "hagire" but on the mune. From a member and an old thread on here: "It is a crack that forms perpendicular to the blade's edge. Usually it will be seen on both sides of the edge. If not, it could be a scratch in the ha. It is considered fatal because it could lead to a broken blade in battle." J.
  7. Thank you @Ray Singer. Never met that term before. You learn something every day. cheers J.
  8. Based on what I see as a current stage of polish of the blade I wouldn't worry about it. You're not going to cut stuff with it, right? There are other , more informed members here but most will not overlook this and most likely pass on either purchasing or restoring the blade (unless a big name or sentimental value that can't be ignored) J.
  9. Hi there, Is it on both sides of the blade? Is it on the cutting edge or the spine? Looking at it I think it could be removed by a certified togishi (very expensive). I usually do not acquire nihonto with such issues. If the flaw is on the cutting edge - fatal - "hagire". J.
  10. It did cross my mind as I could see Something looking a tiny bubble in one of the photos. Totally unrelated- I'm a big fan of muneyaki on nihonto. J.
  11. Hello I believe - imozuru or koichigai ba. Either or. Has to be confirmed with the experts. I hope I'm not wrong. Photos from the great Markus Sesko. J.
  12. Troubling to hear. His blades sell fast as they are priced really low. Thank you for correcting me, it does a great service to anyone interested. cheers J.
  13. My words precisely Be well and I wish you success j.
  14. $750 plus fees and cost for shipping All payment methods available including an EU PayPal account. Serious inquiries should DM me. Thank you. J.
  15. I ran my mouth many times here and in real life... still think I should have just let go. But we are all different-you don't have to follow my suggestion. About how topic progresses - most folks like drama, I don't. 😆 I think the blade is good (sho shin) based on the features I see on my Sukenaga but I'm not in a position to make a call. Godspeed! J.
  16. Hello Ferry, I'd like to ask you nicely to please not disrespect the folks that are doing nothing but trying to help you out - for free. I've personally met some and I can reassure you they are true, knowledgeable staples in the Nihonto world some of which with over 40 years of experience. I think the approach you have is wrong and just to be clear why I think that - the most of the folks that have plenty of books and time spent examining blades are quiet. It's the attitude I believe. Also you've been asked to take photos that can help make a parallel research with the information available at hand. I still don't understand why you wouldn't just provide what's asked. Last, I'm willing to submit the blade to shinsa in April in Chicago for you, as long as you pay for the submission fees and shipping/insurance. I don't want anything for the legwork! I'm not sure whether a blade in need of restoration can be submitted to shinsa though. These are the best things I can suggest for you. Cheers J.
  17. I think we should just find the best in us to stop whatever that is currently going on. I'm buying a virtual round for all J.
  18. Yes, Google works. Take your time. If it's 30" nagasa - you have something. Now that's assuming a lot but I like to stay positive. Many great folks here. Better photos and accurate measurements will definitely contribute for them to chime in so once you're ready , we'll be eager to hear. Cheers J
  19. Indeed Sounds like you're aware of nihonto considering the terminology you use 😉 Obviously forcing the habaki out is NOT what anyone would recommend. What's the motogasane? J.
  20. Hello I think he is a respected, honest seller based on what I see posted on Facebook. It ultimately comes down to how you feel about it and why are you purchasing it on top of the asking price of course. Also, I see Something that reminds me of Osaka yakidashi and also sambonsugi hamon so if you research the smith and that is a kantei point for his works then I would be comfortable with going for it. Also, i see solid silver habaki (good addition to the package). I recently sold an owari shinto that had similar boshi kaeri that turned to muneyaki so that's what makes me feel good about the blade you're thinking of. One thing - I don't know whether it's the lights but something with the polish looks odd.. Regarding the signature - looks bold and well inscribed IMHO Just an opinion by a novice so don't jump to conclusions or immediate decisions that might result in negative emotions. J.
  21. Hello Yukimitsu niji mei and sugata suggest koto per my recent studies. Shinsa could tell whether it is sho shin (there are many knowledgeable members that could help also). I wish you took photos without the habaki as that usually could tell the overall blade health etc. Would love to see more photos of the kissaki and hada.. Cheers J.
  22. To each their own. I was only chiming in so folks understand the depth of the rabbit hole J.
  23. I'm part of the buyers that make an educated decision before they spend their money on blades in need of restoration. If the name of the smith is in the jo jo saku or saijo saku tier then depending on the motogasane and the togishi's opinion I may proceed with the acquisition of the item. As I mentioned-too many unknowns and - clearly nothing contradictory. I'll leave it at that as it seems you've formulated your opinion regardless. I thought I'd contribute by touching on another angle/subject of the blade's acquisition thoughts process of the beginner collector or broker. J.
  24. I'd mention that by taking the blade for a fresh polish one is also taking the risk of uncovering whatever could be underneath that currently isn't visible - core steel, various forging flaws and other defects that hand forged blades sometimes produce. While I'm a big fan of the school, I'd personally be extremely cautious while doing the math as in the Nihonto world there are quite a few unknowns including the fact that while the signature and date appear legit, the blade is not papered. All that is only my opinion.. J.
×
×
  • Create New...