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Posts posted by BjornLundin

  1. 3 hours ago, Rivkin said:

    I would say these are bettwen 200$ and maybe as high as 700$ a piece. 

    Dragons and clouds with nanako, namban and the one with the script are my favorites. The rest is sort of late, but not criminally so.

    These do reflect a specific taste.

    My guess someone lived a lonely life as a collector and then died. 


    I think Rivkin has got it right here. 200-700 USD.


    I was for a long time tempted to buy this one.




    Compare it with yours. 


    Great find! 


     Best Björn 

  2. I have no idea, and to little knowledge. But for the sake and fun of it I will guess shinto atleast, but as a side guess could be also be from the 11th period. 



  3. Hi, noticed that there were a somewhat local auction here in Sweden. Variarity of items... Firearms - to repro to antiques.


    Depending on price - I will possible put a bid on a Yari or Naginata but most likely not since they need a lot of love and quality is possible not there for any cost of love. 




    Item 2191257 - Japanese? War horn - never seen one before. 




    Item 2193177- Waki - In better condition that most of the other nihonto in the collection. 




    Item 2148444 - Armor set - akward eyes




    Item 2150542 - Waki - high sori shape?




    Item 2204716 - Armor set 




    Item 2205164 - Waki - hmmmm



    Item 2205200 - Waki - iron fittings - higo?




    Item 2207030 - Naginata





    Item 2205342 - Naginata 




    Item 2207122 - Yari - Possible decorative against a wall :P - Tri edged?




    Item 2207177 - Yari - Decorative against a wall :P








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  4. Since I cannot edit.


    I have also "long time" ago thought of how cool it would be like a samurai, swinging a real sword around. But boys fantasy taken away, reality sets in. Those warriors having these swords trained long and hard and even then I dont think they were swinging them around. 


    If I would want to go the route, with out a teacher. I would start with a wodden stick, then possible a kendo sword. Then do that for 10 years or so, then feeling that I have progressed on the way of the leaf. I would probably get a IAITO https://tozandoshop.com/collections/hyojun-standard-weight-iaito. Then, training with that for a couple of more years. If then not cured of foolish thoughts and thinking "Hmmm maybe zombies are coming someday" then a sharp iron sword is the way to go.


    If only want to whack at something in the yard, then probably it is easier to get an steel bar at the local store is a good idea.


    But I totally understand the cool thoughts and dreams, one could have to be a samurai.




    Just look at that hamon.... Iaito is the way to go.     Dont destroy antiques, send them to me instead for safe keeping!





  5. https://www.aoijapan.com/katanamumei-attributed-as-kawachi-kami-sukesada/




    These would tickle my interest, but a few swing with a  normal kendo stick usually cures my interest. 


    If I was a sword user. I would probably would ask my sensei for advice and go to a store for tryout. If a lot of money and skill and would probably ask a smith. Forum is probably not good place except for general advice.


    So my advice, find a sensei. Buy a good solid training shinken? sword. Train, train and strive to be better for every time. And so on...



  6. Looks, similar to the shibuishi that I have made (light pink). Do you see any "silver" traces in the metal?  You could try to stain it and compare the color or measure weight/volume ratio. From the color it looks be something like 70-80% Cu to some other metal.


    My shibuishi, with 25% ish silver/ 75% Cu + a bit of gold and tin, hasnt really darken for months.


    Shakudo, only tried small % of gold but the look is more or less similar to shibuishi (non-stained). Why is gold so expensive.


    As always my limited knowledge and experience is to be taken in to account :)



    Best B

    • Like 2
  7. 8 hours ago, DRDave said:


    I'm curious what boxes it doesn't tick; what would you change if you could?


    Bizen - tick

    Utsuri - tick but not necessary

    Hamon - tick

    Length - tick

    Jigane - hmmm

    Auction - hmmm - personally would be more comfortable to buy from the forum or after seeing a blade live 

    Period - tick

    Overall feel - half tick

    Koshirae is a bonus.


    My goal the past years have to save up to to be able to get a good quality sword, to a bit match my wakizashi, something you know "this is the one" and then the question is this one "the one" :) Or will I pass and then later curse myself. Though, this one.




  8. 1 hour ago, Rivkin said:

    personal opinion:

    These blades are nothing like Aoi's example. They are very much on the Soshu end of the spectrum.  Nie based, even choji are neither well defined nor isolated, instead you basically have gunome-togari.

    Alternative attributions tend to be either some sideways Soshu-Mino names like Kinju or Kanenobu, or Sa lineage or Naotsuna group. Basically "Western Japan's Soshu" against Eastern Japan's style which would tend more towards Hasebe-Norishige kind of thing.

    The blade in the thread's subject is as Bizen as they come.


    I was trying to change the focus of other potential buyers 😤😭😬🧐

  9. https://www.aoijapan.net/katana-mumei-omiya/  - Nice shape 



    But the last one - is smokey  - I like this one also but dont polish looks a bit soapy?


    Wonder what price was on this one?




    Its hard, as always. Lot of money for a chap like me, hard when it will probably will be the more or less the blade for lots of years to come. 


    Again thank you, know I know a bit more and that the price is not totaly out of there :) 



  10. Hi everyone.


    Aoiart has a blade on auction that ticks a few boxes. 


    Still it is a bit of cash the shipment, tax and custom 😬, and not all boxes are ticked but still for me it is one of the better ones I have seen in this price range. Or is it? 


    About 1m Yen - 9k USD - 8k euro.


    Better to wait or is it a deal that is once in a year stuff 🧐




    The blade was polished.
    Habaki: Gold foiled double habaki.
    Blade length:71.3cm or 28.07inches.
    Sori:1.8cm or 0.70inches.
    Width at the hamachi:2.81cm or 1.10inches.
    Width at the Kissaki:2.03cm or 0.79inches.
    Kasane:0.675 cm or 0.26inches.
    The weight of the sword:705grams.
    Era: The Nambokucho period, Joji era. Around 1362.
    Shape: Osuriage-Mumei, the blade is normally thick and broad, has deep Sori to be O-Kissaki, well-balanced shape.
    Jigane: Koitame-hada mixed with Mokume-hada, Jinie attached, the surface is beautiful and Utsuri appears.
    Shinogiji: Itame-hada mixed with Mokume-hada to be like Masa.
    Hamon: Koniedeki, Choji-midare works in the way of Shimari-gokoro, Ha works in
    Koashi brightly to be uneven Hamon.
    Boshi: It is Midarekomi style and the tip turns back in a small circle.






    • Like 2
  11. 46 minutes ago, Stephen said:

    Bob Benson has the best uchiko but he's in Hawaii. 

    Not for in polish blades, good for oxidized blades that you want to bring out activity.


    Thank you Stephen, Bob Benson uchiko powder ball is sold out :(


    1 hour ago, sabiji said:

    Please excuse me, but why do you need Uchiko powder?


    As Stephen, said the main reason it to see if I can bring out the real activity of a blade that has a bad hidori "cosmetic" polish.


    Best Björn

  12. Hi Curran,


    Yes, maybe the zoom in lense and  lightning and photoshop is not the best to display the tsuba ^^ Feels like the thread is going in another direction than a ask for advice on fittings :)


    Would be nice with another thread, with a discussion on differences of iron from different schools, periods, and makers. Its an interesting subject. 



  13. Thank you all,


    Christian, my Hoan tsuba now feels angry, and offended and now stares at me. Just look at that frown.


    I attach a close-up for my other similar tsuba in shape, and also an example of a Nishigaki tsuba and a close-up of one of the iron buckets.


    This makes me a bit curious about how the iron looks like from different schools and how can one tell the difference? Anyone?


    Christian, don't think the price should be a guide point to what is real or not, but I see your point. As the text referred to later Hoan, I thought around the 1800 ish time period. Would that be in the ballpark in your experience? The iron looks older to me.


    Best Björn






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