Jump to content

Corry

Members
  • Posts

    105
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Corry

  1. Here are some updated microscopic pice of the type 98 (Yoshichika) in the thread below. Don't know if it will make any difference of showato, but more for reference"
  2. Stephen, 32.5cm or ~12.75" Regards, Corry
  3. Here aree some pics under magnification:
  4. Also, my apologies, on other websites you quote someone when responding to them. Thanks for the heads up! -Corry
  5. This is my sword and pics. Not sure if you are referring to me tho. Too tired to measure. it's a short sword. Maybe tomorrow, I'll measure it. Rgds, Corry
  6. I'll post better pics once I get my microscope.
  7. So, you think perhaps traditionally made, but messed with a bit (even if normal for an old blade)? Regards, Tor
  8. That wouldn't surprise me. I picked it up a while back fro an ebay dealer that seems notorious for this.
  9. I have ordered a miroscope that plugs into my phone so I can look at my blades with better resolution.
  10. Thanks for your response John! I thought the black/dark line on the hamon indicated oil quench? The Tsuka is tight the Tsuba and seppa are a little loose. I have tried (not too hard) to get the cover offf, but the Saya is in black rayskin. Hope this helps. Regards, Corry (Tor)
  11. Does anybody have any idea when this sword was made? Is it a put together? Can you tell by certain techniques on when the blade was made? Looks oil quenched to me. I checked the mei and either it id too old or never signed. Thoughts appreciated.
  12. Bruce, here is what I mean. Top has chyrsanthimums that look yellow painted and the bottom other metallic brassy:
  13. Bruce, no I was not considering a repaint, just wondering if it had been repainted. THX!
  14. It's less than an ideal metal to use. Perhaps for navy reasons/salt air the was best for them, but overall for combat, not the best material to use.
  15. Haha! Rob, no worries. I wasn't considering a repaint. It's just that the shades on the sayas were a bit different and was wondering if it was just normal wartime variation or it had been repainted. Cheers! Corry
  16. Stainles steel is too brittle to make a good combad sword. There needs to be a bit of flexion. Sure it can mess someone up. But no serious combat sword is made of it: "Stainless steel swords (or any blade over 12" long) is considered to be TOO brittle for serious usage and can shatter relatively easily (as demonstrated by the infamous 'home shopping video' below)." https://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/sword-steels.html
  17. The Habaki is bumping into the top of the Saya.
  18. Haha, happens all the time. My first name is Durrell, but Corry is fine as well.
  19. For a type 98. IDK if there is any difference in quality/materials as the war progressed'
  20. Anything made of stainless would be out of the question. I would vote type 95. More functional and robust and the Tsuka won't fall apart in humid conditions.. I think for the most part, officers that were actively in combat left the swords at home. Rgds, Corry
  21. All, My two NCO swords. Once concern I have is a slight shad difference in the sayas (difference in manufacterers or repaint). Also, the steel tsuba one draws out smooth as butter. The brass hilted one has a bit of a bump when un/resheathing. (perhaps due to the dent in the saya?" Didn't get pics of the SN on the saya, but hey are all matching. What are your thoughts on the shade difference and the draw? Regards, Corry
  22. It looks put together. If they don't respond quickly, he may want to bring mail fraud. I am sure that will move them. If it crossed state lines, that prolly opens up a whole new can of worms for the seller, but as said. I doubt he will have any issues.
  23. Stole this from another site, but that was stolen from somewhere else (so, I don't know who to credit), but this is good info on type 95 markings (Please delete if inappropriate): Rgds, Corry
×
×
  • Create New...