Jump to content

ROKUJURO

Members
  • Posts

    5,023
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Everything posted by ROKUJURO

  1. ROKUJURO

    Nakago-Ana Form

    It is not rare to see TSUBA that have been repurposed in later times for decorative reasons. I have one that has probably served as lock-plate for a door.
  2. If I may add a small detail: Date is KYOHO JU NEN HACHI GATSU HI (a day in the eighth month of the tenth year of KYOHO). This is often a more symbolic month date, as February and August were thought to be good for quenching a sword blade. I read that in these month the water temperature was especially good for that, but as the smith had to warm the quenching water to a suitable temperature, this is probably just a mythical thing.
  3. Stephen, that was really a nice one, but now. heavily corroded. I wouldn't be too sad you didn't catch it!.
  4. Alexsandr, in the first photo of post 18 I am missing the beak of the crane. Or is that my old eyes?
  5. Peter, I find it interesting to look into old techniques and to try to reproduce an artifact, but I think it is important to do it the same way it was originally done, or as we assume it was. Almost every handmade item tells a story of its manufacture, So, I am a bit surprised that you as an archaeologist are not taking that way. It would not have been a lot of work to forge a TSUBA blank from scrap iron and to make some cut-outs with small chisels. This was very probably the method these early TSUBA were made. Keep us informed about the progress of your work, and we will see if it comes close to a TOSHO TSUBA. TAMAHAGANE can have differing content of carbon, as far as I know, and the usable parts (there are pieces of pig iron that are not usable) range from very low C content up to something like 1.3 %.
  6. John, the KISSAKI looks to have been damaged; the proportions seem not to fit. The polish is wrong and certainly not bringing out the beauty of the blade. I hope the HA has not been damaged too much. On the other hand, the photos are not very good, so maybe I am not seeing this correctly.
  7. # 1, because I cannot see properly how the SAYA of No. 2 is made, and I don't like brown TSUKA-ITO and yellow SAME. I see no reason to assume that HATTORI KANUEMON was the owner of the blade.
  8. Fabio, welcome to the board! It was a good idea to ask for advice here! That might save you from a lot of trouble! First thing: You cannot bring a sword into Japan. It will be confiscated and you can expect a severe penalty. You need a local agent with a permit to handle swords, and he has to receive the blade from the customs. The new owner needs a permit as well to be allowed to own that sword. It will then be registrated as in his possession. As a non-specialist you are probably not able to tell a genuine first generation TADAYOSHI from a copy. Probably there are many more copies on the market than genuine ones! And it is not just the signature that tells you about the difference but much more so the many properties and details in the blade that you have to learn to see in a long process. Everything is experience in this field, and that takes years of studying good genuine blades. A blade with a false signature may still look good, be well made and not necessarily be inferior, but for collectors it will not have the same value of course. Your picture shows a pencil rubbing of a tang, but it is not made like a real OSHIGATA and will not help much to judge the signature of the blade in question, I think. So wait a moment before you jump into the airplane with a sword in your hand!
  9. NAKAGO looks like an elongated FUNA GATA shape. Not completely unusual, I have seen that elsewhere.
  10. Geoff, welcome to the NM board! Your SHIN GUNTO seems to be made by HIROMITSU in November 1944. This does not necessarily mean that this blade was actually hand-forged by a smith. More and sharp photos of the 'naked' blade are needed to say more about the quality.
  11. Scott, welcome to the NMB board! It is rare to see a sword in such a marvellous condition! Help keeping the sword this way by not touching the blade with bare fingers, keep it away from moist, children, and silly adults. Read about maintenance and care here on the board, and to get more information, make some sharp photos of the bare blade: full naked blade (without HABAKI), and of details like NAKAGO (tang; are there stamps to be seen?), KISSAKI (tip), and HAMON (cutting edge).
  12. Thomas, as said above, some good photos would help to say more about the blade. It seems to be made in WWII time, so it is probably an officer's blade. If it was hand-forged, you may mount it in traditional 'SAMURAI style'. But take your time for such a project, and don't let untrained amateurs try their hands on it!
  13. Athomasgpc, please sign all posts with at least a first name plus an initial so we may address you politely. Your blade was made on a day in February 1945. The smith signed HIZEN no KUNI TADATSUGU, if I am not mistaken. You can look up the smith in books about this subject. I think there was a NAKAO TADATSUGU. If you want to facilitate reading, please show the NAKAGO (tang) vertically (tip up). Photos of the blade in full length and details of tip, NAKAGO and cutting edge are necessary to say more. Are there any additional stamps on the NAKAGO? If not, there is a possibility that this could be a handforged blade of some value.
  14. To me it is obvious that the NAKAGO was broken at the upper MEKUGI-ANA and this was an attempt to repair it.
  15. Ken, I cannot find informations about the 'YOSHII floods'. Do you happen to have a link?
  16. It could be a hidden weapon like a pointed 'pocket stick', but also a nice awl. Not necessarily a NINJA item, but might sell better with that tag on it!
  17. A bit difficult to wear on the wrist.....
  18. Krystian, polished SHAKUDO TSUBA may look quite glossy if their surface is intact, but if this one is an iron TSUBA (it seems to be one), it might have been sprayed with clear paint. If so, it is a good candidate for an Acetone treatment. This powerful solvent will not attack the patina or the metal, but dissolve all kinds of paint. Don't do this inside your house and use nitrile gloves as Acetone is harmful to your health.
  19. Ed, the KAESHIZUNO 返し角 is needed when both swords are being drawn for a fight. The SAGEO secures the SAYA of the second sword (in most cases this will be the WAKIZASHI) to the OBI so the blade can be drawn one-handedly.
  20. It is also called Kaeshizuno (返し角) - a hook shaped fitting (part made usually from horn) used to lock the saya to the obi while drawing. (WIKIPEDIA)
  21. Alexsandr, this could be a late KINAI TSUBA.
  22. Chris, probably name in a short MEI. A long MEI may contain province, title, and family/clan name. Other side of the NAKAGO will show the date.
  23. Matthew, that depends on how much is being offered actually. Generally speaking, an artful, individually handmade item will always have a better value increase over time than something factory made. But if you keep your sword in good shape for the next 300 years, you may also get some money for it!
×
×
  • Create New...