Correcting An Acid Polish

[Death-Ace]

Hey guys! Might be a weird question, but has anyone seen or had a blade that was acid polished, but then sent to be either demolished or had the acid neutralized (aka: sodium bicarbonate, the "Baking Soda Bath").

 

We all see blades that have been acid polished and while they look pretty, isn't so hot and know the effects and uninterrupted acid has on steel with time.

 

I have a wakizashi I posted here and a few places that has many attributes to Muromachi-era Uda and have sent it to Brian Tschernega and Takeo Seki for polish and shirasaya. Unfortunately, when I bought it, the guy had purchased it the day prior and attempted the lemon juice method with a q-tip throughout rhe blade. When I brought it home, I didn't have any baking soda, so I utilized ammonia-rich Windex and, as with all my blades, a good quality oil and high percentage isopropyl alcohol.

 

I'm hoping my fears can be soothed being a Koto blade that hopefully isn't the porous steel of quite a few and that I was able to neutralize any acid remnants. Windex isn't the best, bit hoping it worked in this scenario.

[TheGermanBastard]

No wiorries!

[TheGermanBastard]

You can also put it into destilled water for an extended periode of time like 4 weeks + to neutralize any acid and do away with any potential active rust ... eventually you will need to exchange the water one time to be sure. But don't put in the Nagako as it would do away the rust.

[TheGermanBastard]

PS: I have not seen the blade in question so I can not really make an evaluation ... BUT if it is Uda Muromachi Wakizashi Mumei or O-Suriage my advice is not to get it polished as it won't be economical in terms of you will not be likely to reclaim your investment any time soon (nor in the far future)

[ROKUJURO]

Lev,

I don't quite understand. If the blade was sent to some specialists, they should be able to solve the problem or at least give you good advice which is difficult here online without seeing the blade in hand. Not only in your case, amateurs should stay away from all attemps of restoration, 

By the way, it is a fairy tale that acids work endlessly in the steel 'underground' of a blade. Acids - as any other chemical - have a reaction potential, and once that is used up they stop working. On the other hand, corrosion can be enhanced by the reaction products as soon as moisture gets to the blade.  

[Ken-Hawaii]

Jean is correct, Lev. Both acids & alkalis lose their reaction potential pretty darn quickly, usually ending up as some kind of salt. plus water.

[Death-Ace]

Appreciate it guys! I hear you on amateur restorations, I knew a few back in my hometown alone yeara ago that would give advice od acid and steel wool without realizing what damage would occur to the blade. Yeah, I did sound a bit dumb, and should have mentioned that about what the acid leaves behind and not that it is eternal, so I do apologize, haha.

 

I do appreciate the advice on what to do without baking soda nearby on a blade that had an acidic substance used! I honestly hate rust with a passion, so that was the only reason I decides windex as a last ditch measure to neutralize the acid used while it was still viable. Thankfully yes, I wouldn't go near the nakago. Ive only been seriously interested on the art of nihonto for the past decade, but one of the first things I learned was what happens if using substances on the nakago.

 

This is the blade in question:

http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/22994-militaria-show-wakizashi/?fromsearch=1

 

Please forgive the flash photography!

When posted on one of the FB pages, Chris Bowen and Ray Singer gave their input, so I figured I would send it to be assessed. I have gotten food word from Brian, but also awaiting Takeo's advice, as well. It does have quite a bit of activity and the Uda/Ko-Uda school has been a favorite of mine, so thats one of the reasons I sent it. Even though the polish may negate what I put into it, I figure for the 200, I'd take a chance. It is a lovely blade in hand and the activity and hamon was obscured before the application of choji and isopropyl.