Care And Cleaning By Tsuruta San

[Stephen]

old way

 

 

 

modern way

 

 

 

maybe pin for newbies to be linked to?

[Greg F]

Great to see no uchiko in the new vid. Darcy should like that too!

I was surprised to see a vid of a popular western seller put the swords back in the saya quite hard, glad it's a gentle process at Aoi. Cheers Stephen.

 

Greg

[nagamaki - Franco]

Seasons Greetings,

 

A holiday tip. When placing the tsuka back on, once the tsuka is 'fed' onto the nakago the thumb and forefinger of the upper hand should clasp the habaki firmly to serve as a brake. So that even when the tsuka is very gently tapped on until seated, the habaki is not being driven forward. Otherwise, over time there is the real risk of the habaki being split further and further apart until finally it no longer fits snug and tight, becoming loose. Also, keep in mind that there is even the risk of the ha cutting through the habaki, as well as causing damage to the ha-machi. Time and time again it has not been uncommon to see someone give the tsuka one good final tap, which at least for me makes me cringe. 

Btw, if the habaki is shakudo I would recommend not touching/handling it directly. 

[Ken-Hawaii]

Interesting comment. When we do noto (resheathing) in martial arts, we set the blade firmly (but not particularly hard) in the saya, & I've never seen any sign of damage to the habaki in 29 years of training, either with my iaito or my Nihonto.

 

Ken

[Tanto54]

Dear Ken,

 

In noto the force is in the opposite direction - Franco is correct about habaki damage when the force is going the other way.

[Brian]

Interesting comment. When we do noto (resheathing) in martial arts, we set the blade firmly (but not particularly hard) in the saya, & I've never seen any sign of damage to the habaki in 29 years of training, either with my iaito or my Nihonto.

 

Ken

He's referring to putting the tsuka back on the nakago...before you have the mekugi in. In other words, you are pushing directly against the habaki.

Makes sense to me, and something I am going to watch out for.

[w.y.chan]

Thanks for posting the videos.

 

The oil Tsuruta san use in both videos are neither "choji" or mineral oil but camelia oil for tool care commonly sold in Japan

 

https://www.fine-tools.com/pflege.html

 

 

 

 

 

Wah

[Gokaden]

Seasons Greetings,

 

A holiday tip. When placing the tsuka back on, once the tsuka is 'fed' onto the nakago the thumb and forefinger of the upper hand should clasp the habaki firmly to serve as a brake. So that even when the tsuka is very gently tapped on until seated, the habaki is not being driven forward. Otherwise, over time there is the real risk of the habaki being split further and further apart until finally it no longer fits snug and tight, becoming loose. Also, keep in mind that there is even the risk of the ha cutting through the habaki, as well as causing damage to the ha-machi. Time and time again it has not been uncommon to see someone give the tsuka one good final tap, which at least for me makes me cringe. 

Btw, if the habaki is shakudo I would recommend not touching/handling it directly. 

 

Can you elaborate on your thoughts here, thanks!

[nagamaki - Franco]

Can you elaborate on your thoughts here, thanks!

 

Hello,

 

Please watch the second video again. At ~ minute 2:12/2:36 you will see Mr.Tsuruta has placed the habaki, 1st seppa, tsuba, 2nd seppa all back onto the nakago along with the tsuka at that point. However, the tsuka remains unseated. He then switched hands holding the center of the tsuka now in his left hand, and in so doing his right hand is then free to finish tapping/seating the tsuka all the way on tight which he proceeds to do. The problem is that when done in this manner the force of driving/seating the tsuka on is transferred forward to the habaki. Which, as previously explained, over time causes the habaki to become loose and/or damaged. Instead of this, at the point of where the tsuka is gently tapped on, seated, the forefinger and thumb of the left hand should be clasping the habaki firmly. Which means that the tsuba will then be between the forefinger and middle finger, and the ring finger and pinky will be clasping the top of the tsuka, still freeing and allowing the right hand to do the gentle tapping.

Also, keep in mind this technique should be used not only with koshirae, but shirasaya as well. All it takes is one 'good' slap/tap and the habaki may then no longer fit tight as it should.

 

Better? Perhaps a video is in order, will try, no promises. 

[Dave R]

Hello,

 

Please watch the second video again. At ~ minute 2:12/2:36 you will see Mr.Tsuruta has placed the habaki, 1st seppa, tsuba, 2nd seppa all back onto the nakago along with the tsuka at that point. However, the tsuka remains unseated. He then switched hands holding the center of the tsuka now in his left hand, and in so doing his right hand is then free to finish tapping/seating the tsuka all the way on tight which he proceeds to do. The problem is that when done in this manner the force of driving/seating the tsuka on is transferred forward to the habaki. Which, as previously explained, over time causes the habaki to become loose and/or damaged. Instead of this, at the point of where the tsuka is gently tapped on, seated, the forefinger and thumb of the left hand should be clasping the habaki firmly. Which means that the tsuba will then be between the forefinger and middle finger, and the ring finger and pinky will be clasping the top of the tsuka, still freeing and allowing the right hand to do the gentle tapping.

Also, keep in mind this technique should be used not only with koshirae, but shirasaya as well. All it takes is one 'good' slap/tap and the habaki may then no longer fit tight as it should.

 

Better? Perhaps a video is in order, will try, no promises. 

 My personal opinion only here, if the Habaki can be damaged in this way, then it is not a properly fitted or made Habaki. Rear stress is taken on the Munemachi, and forward stress on the Hamachi which should rest on an inserted support, the Machigane. If there is a taper or curve to the Ha of the Nakago  then further support is given there. If the Ha is splitting the Habaki it probably means that it is missing a Machigane, in the manner of the Chinese repro's where the Hamachi rests in a cut rather than on a Machigane.

 

Dave R

[Brian]

We see enough cracked and broken hamachi to know that hammering the machigane onto that sharpened edge cannot be good for the habaki or the hamachi itself. Something has to give when they are slammed together. Ideally the machigane crushes or takes the force. But that hamachi is a sliver of steel sometimes, and not made to be hammered on.

[Stephen]

Guilty as charged! number of times the hole is just off from lining up. so it was slam on palm till sit. Good ol NMB, where your never to old to learn!

[nagamaki - Franco]

Hello,

 

Like many, years ago I sent a newly polished sword to shinsa in Japan with a newly made habaki which fit snug/tight, in fact so snug and tight it required effort to remove. Upon return from shinsa the habaki not only no longer fit snug and tight, but slid almost effortlessly off when the sword was held upright. I cannot imagine that it had been removed more than a very few times if even more than once. Which means/indicates that someone handling the sword gave it a 'good slap,' this is fact, not opinion. As sword owners people are free to practice as they wish of course. BTW, that habaki was made by one of the best habaki makers in or out of Japan.

Edited December 26, 2016 by nagamaki

[Stephen]

maybe they got tired of effort and spread it with wood wedge 

[nagamaki - Franco]

yeah, that must be it 

[Greg F]

Nagamaki thank you for bringing this up. I have seen plenty of damaged Habaki that could possibly have been preserved with this tip. Cheers.

 

Greg

[Guido]

Franco, I usually agree with your posts, but what you are describing above seems to be a little odd. First of all, a habaki shouldn’t require effort to remove (or put on). There can be a problem when it comes to an often polished blade and – as a result thereof – slightly thicker nakago in relation to it, which needs considerable skill by the shiroganeshi to manage a proper fit.

 

Secondly, a properly made tsuka will usually prevent it from going above the line where it meets the habaki.  Only a gentle tap (emphasis on gentle) might be required to close the last gap of a fraction of a millimeter – at least that’s how it was/is on all my swords, past and present. You kind of feel how much “force” is needed by carefully tapping the tsuka ever so slightly.

 

Only if the sword is in old shirasaya or koshirae, it’s indeed advisable to hold habaki and nakago at the same time while putting back on the tsuka. In my experience, the tsuka sits quite loose in those cases anyhow, so no tapping at all is required. Unless one wants to look cool and “professional”.

 

I can’t imagine that a dealer or the people of the papering organization caused the damaged habaki in your case. I have, however, a very low opinion of many people at the tōroku-shinsa-kaijō; I have material for many hours of anecdotes how some of those fruitcakes treat swords and make mistakes all the time.   But generally speaking, I don’t see any reasons for paranoia when it comes to putting back a tsuka if you know what you’re doing. But of course it’s always better to err on the side of caution.

 

[Guido]

The oil Tsuruta san use in both videos are neither "choji" or mineral oil but camelia oil for tool care commonly sold in Japan

 

You are quite right - that's hilarous! However, I think that this is just bad video editing, I've never seen him using traditional oil at his shop. Mostly he uses something like Kure 5-56 (the Japanese equivalent of WD-40) that he sprays on cloth.

[Brian]

Climatic changes. The tsuka can be loose in one season, and so tight it will not come off in another. See it on my own swords all the time.
So it is impossible to make a tsuba so that it fits perfectly and stops at the habaki. What works perfectly in Summer in Japen when it is made, will fit differently in Winter in Canada.
And if a tsuka fits loosely, I would think even dropping it hard vertically into the tsuka would put a nice thump on the habaki. Yes..they are made to take a lot of stress and force, but we see enough split habaki and cracked machi to make me think it is entirely plausible. Combine that with the fact that probably only 5% of the swords we come across ARE fitted with professionally made modern tsuka, I would err on the side of caution.

[nagamaki - Franco]

Hello,

 

Guido, what I would add is this to the conversation, the last 5 habaki I had made were all by Brian Tschernega, and every single one fit tight and snug the same way.  Which at least for myself makes it difficult to reach any other conclusion other than a snug and tight fit is actually the way habaki are supposed to be made.  

 

As for the tsuka limiting travel and preventing/stopping energy/force transferring forward to the habaki, I will have to do some research on that. Although, often I have seen where the habaki has left an imprint on the face of the seppa or tsuka (not by design). Which at least to me suggests that while the tsuka may limit forward travel from gentle tapping, a more forceful tap will still transfer force to the habaki.

 

 

[Dave R]

You are quite right - that's hilarous! However, I think that this is just bad video editing, I've never seen him using traditional oil at his shop. Mostly he uses something like Kure 5-56 (the Japanese equivalent of WD-40) that he sprays on cloth.

There are whole threads about oil, not just here but on other collectors sites as well. Given the attitude of Japanese craftsmen to their tools, and Chefs to their knives I would take their use of this particular oil to be a recommendation. I would also be surprised if the use of this particular oil in the video was an accident. Perhaps it reflects his own practice on his own swords..... or a bit of product placement.

[Guido]

I would also be surprised if the use of this particular oil in the video was an accident. Perhaps it reflects his own practice on his own swords.....

 

I'm not easily offended, and I'm certainly not in this case. But why do you post those speculations after reading my eyewitness acount?

[Guido]

Franco, I have heard nothing but good things about Brian's habaki, and of course I think that a snug fit is the way to go - but you said in your initial post that it took effort to move it, wich isn't something I would expect from a high class habaki for which he is known for. In any case, I stand by my remarks that a properly made tsuka prevents to a certain degree pushing the habaki against hamachi and/or munemachi. I visited a very well known collector and scholar/author of sword books today, and looked at 30+ blades - no problem getting the tsuka back on without the danger of harming the habaki with any of those blades, so I guess my own collection isn't an exception. And quite a few had a small recess in the tsuka to accomodate the habaki, which was made intentionally by the shirasayashi, and certainly not due to extensive tapping.

 

Btw, I examined a Sengo Masasane katana that had a thicker nakago than blade (a case I mentioned above), and the effort it took to remove it and put it back on can be compared to the pressure point of a high class rifle. That's exactly what I expect from a good shiroganeshi.

 

Brian, today there was rain almost all day long in Tokyo, and humidity reached 100% at times. I'm not saying that climate doesn't matter, but it doesn't influence well made shirasaya (or koshirae) in the way you describe. I also didn't say anywhere that dropping a nakago in a tsuka is a good idea - quite to the contrary.

 

I think it all comes down to the quality of work that is done, and even then your mileage may vary. All I did was reporting from my own experience.

[Dave R]

I'm not easily offended, and I'm certainly not in this case. But why do you post those speculations after reading my eyewitness acount?

I am sorry about, and surprised at your reaction to my comment. I was merely speculating as to why the other oil appeared in the video, when as you said he used something else in his shop..

[nagamaki - Franco]

1) - but you said in your initial post that it took effort to move it,

 

2) And quite a few had a small recess in the tsuka to accomodate the habaki, which was made intentionally by the shirasayashi, and certainly not due to extensive tapping.

 

 

Hello Guido,

 

1) By effort, it requires slight finger pressure with a slight tug to "unlock" it, nothing extraordinary in the way of physical exertion, my apologies if I gave that impression. At the same time I would add that compared to every other new habaki I have removed the difference is quite notable. Yes, Brian san is quite talented, and considering that he has won the NBTHK habaki making contest twice now he must be doing something right with a tight/snug fitting habaki.

 

2) That's what was meant when writing .... (not by design)

 

 

 Although, often I have seen where the habaki has left an imprint on the face of the seppa or tsuka (not by design). 

Edited December 27, 2016 by nagamaki

[raaay]

Hi

 

I do not  want to start a debate about oil again, but back in November I seen the bottle of oil in the video in Tsuruta san's shop being used.

[Stephen]

id like to have some if can be found in USA

[raaay]

Stephen

 

not much help,  but you could see the oil in question in many big stores in Japan for sale alongside all there kitchen knifes , got mine in the craft shop ( Tokyo Hands ) it cost me  480 yen for a bottle .  

[Jimmy R]

The two swords I have bought from Aoi art were drenched in oil. I am very surprised that this conversation is leaning to the use of an oil with unknown properties. Using such a compound on tools used for every day use is worlds apart from protecting Nihonto. I live in Okinawa where humidity is about as high as it can get and I use only pure mineral (a very light coat) oil once a year. Not a spot of rust in sight for 5 years.

[Derek]

In case you missed it, please check out http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/16521-nihonto-oil-a-study-part-2/

 

Stephen, I still have a full bottle of camelia oil that I bought from Japan for the study, I would be glad to send it to you, if you like.  Just PM me.

 

FWIW, I only use Fujishiro Oil on my nihonto now.