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Japanese Armour Restoration UK


DaveT

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I've been rather encouraged with the growing interest on the forum with regard armour restoration. Until now I never realised that what we as restorers take on board as a standard routine is rarely shared with the collectors community. For that reason I have started this thread. It's not my intention to tender trade secrets here as such, but rather to provide you with an insight of what goes on behind closed doors. I work on 4-5 projects at the same time due to drying times and rarly photograph the work. Now armed with the iphone I can make this happen.

 

I hope you enjoy the regular updates.

 

Dave

 

This is a Nerigawa Suji bachi kabuto. I received the item is a very poor state, almost 80% wrecked. The relief on the surface of the helmet is completely fabricated from kokuso and sabi, most of which has been lost through damage. This is a total rebuild, and a very challenging one.

 

Stage 1: I consolidated all areas that were damaged.

Stage 2: I have built up the ground layers with a hard layer of kokuso (mixture of flower, urushi and fine sawdust)

Stage 3: Rebuild. Again using kokuso I am making the false suji-tate flanges. Once dry they will be cut back and another layer applied.

 

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This photo displays the newly built suji-tate and the replacement rim to the mabizashi with a light kokuso layer. Once dried it will be cut back and the process repeated until a level and presentable layer has been attained.

 

You can follow more regular updates on my facebook page http://www.facebook.com/nihonnokatchu

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I am constantly amazed at the workmanship and artistic ability of those that do this sort of work -not to mention the patience. Dave this particular procedure for the entire helmet must take months !!

 

Thanks for taking the time from your work to share.

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Most items are drying today, so I took a photograph of the various materials and tools I use for lacquer work in my studio.

 

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On lacquering I base the process very closely to the procedure outlined in the Chukokatchu Seisakuben by Kozan Sakakibara written in Edo Jindai

I was trained to create urushi-art! But that level is not required for katchu thank god.

 

1. Ko-Ita-Nuri

A single thin layer of seshime-urushi is applied. (2 days drying)

 

2. Mugi-Urushi

A covering cloth is laid, then coated with a wheat flour mugi-ko seshime-urushi layer. (2 days drying)

 

3. Kokuso

A mixture of chopped hemp, wheat flour and seshime-urushi is used to fill any dents and gaps. (2 days drying)

 

4. Seshime-nuri

A thick layer is applied to seal the kokuso, then polished. (2 days drying)

 

5. Sabi-nuri

A coating of mixture seshime-urushi and Tonoko clay is applied and polished when dry. (2 days drying)

 

6. Sabi-gatame-nuri

A repetition of 5. this ensures the surface is smooth. (2 days drying)

 

7. Ro-iro

A coat of black lacquer is applied, followed by polishing (6 days drying)

 

8. Ro-iro

Repeated. (6 days drying)

 

9. Ro-iro

Repeated (6 days drying)

 

10. Ro-iro

Repeated, but finished with standard polishing and then a treatment of tsubaki (powered deer horn) (6 days drying)

 

As you can see this process takes a long time. I tend to work on at least 5-10 commissions at the same time. I dry the lacquer for an extra day due to the fact that I'm extremely allergic to it. There's a lot to be said for the tataki-nuri technique as from point 5. its only two further steps, a sabi-nuri and sealing coat to finish.

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May I ask do you use Naotane & Turpentine oil on you brushes, also may I say thank you

for the information so freely posted.

 

Regards,

T.Norman.

 

My Tanaka-Bake are made from human hair.

I was instructed to use only rapeseed oil. Takes me nearly 30 minutes to clean of the urushi with a Hera, then I use Saran Wrap (Japanese Cling Film) to keep them stored between jobs.

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