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  2. I picked it from Jake at the San Francisco show last year. Best, Alexi
  3. Today
  4. It isn't difficult to see that this isn't going to go anywhere constructive. Done here! Enjoy! Regards
  5. The burden of proof rests with the accuser....
  6. I admit to being old fashioned and more so, old and white, when it comes to my tastes. I don't care that much for who is nth generation polisher or who got promoted into some position. First reflects birth, second reflects loyalty. Even prizes have their limits - there are authors like Remarque or Tolstoy. And there are Pulitzer prize winners. Expert should earn the title. By predicting things or offering valid, well known, published arguments. In my book: I strongly value Brian Czernega as a general kantei expert as well as that on certain materials and techniques. Markus Sesko is the best when it comes to studies of old Japanese texts. Dmitry Pechalov is very good when it comes to researching certain genealogies and a relationship between the swords and the collecting community.
  7. I was curious on the forehead and other's opinions. I thought it looked like oxidization; had a long shot someone would tell me it was a mask. It seems a lot of people like these style tsuba, for some reason I am really attracted to different styles of iron tsuba more than softer metals such as this one, Don't get me wrong, I still think this is a decent piece, thanks for your response.
  8. I would find some polisher ready to confine/remove red rust for not a lot of money. This is not a blade which will pay off to repolish, but a shallow red rust can be helped (usually).
  9. Thanks everyone, I will continue with cleaning and oil. Jon , not sure if this matters but these pics were done in almost completely dark room with flash. In normal light I have gotten this rust looking darker, but I was actually surprised how red it was when I viewed these pics. Thanks for the help.
  10. It seems to be in ok polish and the spots can be addressed by a polisher individually. Jigane is nice and looks like shinshinto work.
  11. I think it's great that you've pulled the trigger, given that this is the blade that was calling to you. Far better a blade like that than a highly papered blade which feels blah to you. This is significantly about aesthetics, after all :-) Robert S
  12. Citations welcome? Please describe this jigane/jitetsu? Regards
  13. Get this in front of a traditionally trained polisher. Some options include: Bob Benson or Woody Hall.
  14. I can't help much with the mei could it be 奈良利奇 Nara Togi ki [?], but it is not modern. A very nice guard but not top of the range, have you noticed the staff of the monk is a little bent? A little oxidation on his forehead? Inlay name plate of silver(?) Typical style of the Nara school. https://tw.daigobang...html?aID=m1096643842 https://tsuba.jyuluc....com/NaraSchool.html
  15. This is a very useful thread on several issues. Thanks for keeping it up! Robert S
  16. That’s a lot of active rust…this one need oil asap…..clean the blade carefully with 95% isopropyl ( watch out for the rust coming off as you clean and scrapping/damaging other parts of the blade…then oil..so this regularly until the rust turns black. watch out for any rust hanging around inside the Shirasaya. This may be a blade that needs a professional view on polishing.
  17. Thank you very much for your information. Do you have any idea how old this sword may be? I'm having difficulty removing the handle due to the condition its in.
  18. On another topic, I mentioned earlier a little mid-Edo Nami-no-Hira blade that I purchased last year. The togishi was unwilling to work on it as it was a little loose in the saya, so it went to the shiroganeshi who inserted some 'koppa' shavings to grip the habaki better. Finally it went off last week to the now-satisfied togishi for a 'light polish'. (Something to look forward to in the background!)
  19. Franco, if you bother to do a little research, you'll find the Yoshimune, only made Gendaito. You seem to be fixated on it not being traditional.
  20. And this is why I have finally learned to ask before just doing, only took about 47 years It has a very nice feel in hand and I can see some nice activity under the rust but can't tell much about the hada in current condition. I will upgrade this one and maybe I will make this one my first full restoration piece.
  21. Yesterday
  22. Thanks for these quick responses. I am still playing around with the photography and will be posting much better pics soon. I did not mean a new polish; I just want to not let it get any worse than what I now have. I will update with new photos possibly after this weekend.
  23. Again, agree with Ray. The habaki will come off unless epoxied. Place the edge of a piece of wood or a chopstick on the habaki at the places indicated and tap downward, alternating between sides. In addition, the rust can be mitigated. Search the forum and several methods will pop up. John C.
  24. Hi as Ray said, we need some better pictures, show the whole of the nakago ( the tang) both sides..and a full length shot of the blade. from the very limited pictures this is a traditionally forged sword, as for is the blade recoverable…that’s nothing significant damage wise at all just oil and keep the blade..it does not look like it needs a polish and is fine…yes it’s irritating to have some scratches and a bit of light rust…but that slight irritation is not worth spending a ton of money on… finally don’t do any work yourself other than, clean the blade with 95% isopropyl then oil the blade…keep a cycle of oil, clean off, re oil until the rust has settled to black stable rust.. other than that keep the sword in its Shirasaya…in a nice controlled environment ( humidity around 50-60%) no dramatic changes in temp ( basically the sort of environment you would want to be in).
  25. I'm of the opinion that any antique traditionally made Japanese sword deserves more than to be turned into a machete or garden tool. This appears to be an old Mino blade. This is a preservation-based group, so perhaps not the best thing to discuss using it for "project" work.
  26. This is what was listed as the "project" blade in the collection I now own and was by far in the worst condition out of the blades. Habaki will not come off yet. The only good news is that this is a beefy little wakizashi with some hamon activity and do not see any forging flaws. But it is rusted all over the surface. There is no signature on the nakago. There may be a possibility nakago was shaved down a bit to fit a homemade handle, but not certain about this. To mee one side has better file marks and one side seems smoother and a bit strange. The actual blade is also much thicker than the nakago. My basic question is this, does anyone with knowledge see something where this is worth preserving? I have made rash decisions in the past, so before I have the best garden tool on the street, I am looking for feedback. I will most likely use it as a project piece myself unless I am told differently. Also, aside from the wiping and choji oil, should I do anything else with this blade to help keep it up? It is currently stored in a regular saya, I do not have shirasaya for this one. Thanks for any help.
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